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  1. I wrote:
     
    And a few of them have decided that they're not interested in coming out of the spark plug holes, but would rather commit suicide:

    So here's what I actually did to remove the stuck adapter:
    • I blew air through the cylinder with the piston at TDC by attaching a compression tester adapter to the bottom plug hole
    • I used a suggestion to grind away 90% of the adapter, pretty close to the helicoil (the air blew ~90% of the crap out of the cylinder, but not all. Since the adapter was the ancient steel one that LSE used to sell, I was able to use a small magnet to fish out 99% of what fell into the cylinder)
    • I then used an 18mm x 1.5mm tap to re-tap the hole and was able to get the tap started in the top of the helicoil to ensure it was lined up correctly. I made it through 95% of the hole, getting clean threads and exposing the helicoil using oil on the tap and collecting chips every three threads or so (and fishing more out of the cylinder with the magnet)
    • But sadly, the helicoil spun when tapping the last 2 threads in the hole (isn't that always how it goes?) so I removed the helicoil and re-tapped the helicoil insert threads with the helicoil tap
    Tomorrow, I'll replace the long helicoil into the head, put a brand new long adapter in and then a new long reach 12mm spark plug. Cylinder saved without removal, it seems. Onward and sideways.

    Thanks to all for the suggestions - a combination of them worked fairly well and only took a few hours.

    --
    Marc J. Zeitlin                      marc_zeitlin@...
                                                http://www.cozybuilders.org/
    Copyright © 2024                     Burnside Aerospace

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  2. Tracy Ryan wrote:

    Should be either 164-01700(standard) or 164-11700(chrome)...


    Yes - I found the 01700 as the stock disc for that wheel/brake, but those are the 3/16" (0.187") thick discs. I'm looking for a 1/4" thick disc.

    And per the catalog, the 30-9 caliper has no shim. Only the 30-181A caliper has the shim. Not sure why someone would put that in when it’s not needed.

    The shim was installed because the disc thickness was increased from 0.187" to o.250". Hence both the shim and my question about which disc #, out of the four 0.25" thick discs I listed, I should be purchasing.

    _IF_ their numbering system is consistent, then PROBABLY the 01300, or 01900, but that's why I'm asking :-).

    --
    Marc J. Zeitlin                      marc_zeitlin@...
                                                http://www.cozybuilders.org/
    Copyright © 2024                     Burnside Aerospace

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  3. Folks:

    So there are apparently 4 different Cleveland/Rapco P/Ns for 0.25" thick brake discs for 5.00 x 5 wheels (as used on a Long-EZ) to the extent I can tell. These are:

    164-00900
    164-01300
    164-01900
    164-02800

    Assuming I have a fairly standard Cleveland 40-78B wheel with a <mumbledy> single piston brake caliper that has a 1/8" thick spacer in it (apparently the brake was upgraded to a thicker disc at some point), which of these discs should I get, and how would I know that?

    Thanks in advance.

    --
    Marc J. Zeitlin                      marc_zeitlin@...
                                                http://www.cozybuilders.org/
    Copyright © 2024                     Burnside Aerospace

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  4. To the delight of line people all over the country, Madeleine and I devised the most efficient, although perhaps the least elegant method to deplane her. She would stand up, I would position myself in front of the left strake, and she would “fall” over my shoulder like a sack of potatoes. I would then turn and gently lower her to the ground. It was the best and safest way, and always good for a laugh!
    Cm

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  5. Steve, All,

    I believe that the material that John and Sue refer originated from me ;^)

    I did get to my field this weekend.

    I took stills of my latch in 'open' and 'closed' positions, attached.

    As Bill requested I have dipped into the world of cinema and made an epic of its operation, due to size. attached to a separate email.

    Most of the canard community these days are not the original builders - the old-guys would have had no trouble reproducing my latch from my rather poor annotated photos.

    I didn't manage to lay-on a scale but the longeron thickness should act instead.

    Best with it!

    Mike T         O-235 VE G-EMMY



     

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  6. Sue, John, Steve, 

    I now have a new PC, thus I am struggling with Windows 11!! (Can't find a darned thing!)

    Further I had to go for M/S Office 13 as no way was I to pay per month! for 365 Word/Excel/etc. 

    I have now looked-up those pictures I took some years back.

    At the time I did not produce engineering drawings (very unlike me).

    Note I had before overlayed the original 'Burt handle', for  extra leaver-arm for my daughter.  - This became part of the arrangement

    Attach 1 shows the basic layout with the 'canopy closed, latch made'. (canopy obviously open to allow more light for the photo.) 

    Attach 2 The main components (handle, latch, barrel lock) positioning from top longeron. (microswitch arm just visible)

    Attach 3 Annotated to give an idea as to the action of handle/latch and, separately, the barrel lock.

    Attach 4 Gives an idea as to the operation.

    Remember to move the 'safety catch' to as far back as the pilot's seat etc. will allow for GIB access

    However, I aim be at my field this weekend. It's an hour away so no-go if we get bad Wx.  

    I will attempt to take some better/more informative shots and try to include a measuring tape to give an idea of size etc. 

    It shouldn't be too difficult to mock-up a card 'prototype' based on the above which will allow you to see its operation and then transfer it to hardware, ally sheet, etc.

    Mike T   O-235 VE G-EMMY

    Note:  I have spacers under my latch pins/screws so that they are in tension not bending OMV

     

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