CA Mailing List

Hi, Group

I just finished my 1st SS heat shield. Dale made it sound
like it will not weigh much.

BUT BEWARE: He omitted the fact that you need to use 16 grams
of machine screws, washers, and nuts. They are not in the original
plans.

But then the original plans require you to use tabs around the entire
upper and lower edges. I used no tabs, just small L brackets.

Hmmmmmm Maybe my SS heat shield is LIGHTER than the RAF plans.

O well, it is done.

Bruce Hughes

View the full article

I bought my aileron torque tube bearings from Ken Miller. They never
bind with the for/aft motion of the ailerons and they are
indestructable and easy to install. His speed break actuator also
works perfectly and is easy to install.

Steve

Suffolk, VA.


-- In canard-aviators@..., "Garth Shearing" <garth@...>
wrote:

Lots of alternatives. I used MS20219-3 phenolic control pulleys as

control

bearings in all three locations for my VariEze. I had them in my
miscellaneous bits and pieces but they are available from Spruce.

I removed

the phenolic to leave a beautifully knurled outer diameter which

can be

floxed into anything. I floxed them into removable plywood pieces

left over

from the firewall. The existing 5/8 steel tubing was emeried to

provide

a nice firm tap-on of the bearings. These have been operating for

25 years

with no problems.

Garth Shearing
VariEze
Victoria BC Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: <Build2001@...>
To: <canard-aviators@...>
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 12:15 AM
Subject: [c-a] Aileron Torque Tube Bearings

View the full article

Nick,

There are some other resins out there that can take higher temperatures
but they are a little on the exotic side. They are Bismaleimides and Cyanate
esters. The BMI's are good for temps up in the 450F range and the Cyanate's
are down in the 350F range. They each have their own peculiarities when you go
to use them. You can check them out on this website..
_http://www.brytetech.com/_ (http://www.brytetech.com/)

I have often wondered how the guys have got away with baffles that are
down in the Tg range of 160F. I suspect you could shape them very well when
they were in the 200-300F soak back range.. ;-)

Torger Totusek
Boeing Technical Fellow
Long-EZ 606TT
Fullerton, CA

View the full article

Am I the only one getting the following from Harry's links?

=====================================================================

This page was served by a demo copy of MGI. For more information or to purchase MGI, visit PagePlanet Software.

Wow! I bet you didn't expect to see this...
Invalid Serial Number

The current serial number and authorization code are invalid.

Try this...

Purchase an appropriate license to receive a working serial number and authorization code.

This page was served by a demo copy of MGI. For more information or to purchase MGI, visit PagePlanet Software.

=====================================================================

This site will get you some actual information:

http://www.extrication.com/glasmaster.htm

Regards,
Dale R.

View the full article

Hey, I can confess to having done just that, but on a runway in front of 10,000 people.

I lost the nose gear, broke the speed brake when the departing nose wheel/gear leg hit it, broke both lower winglets, broke the right wing, broke the canard, ground down the nose, and finally broke the main gear.
This occurred at Oshkosh in 1988. The most amazing thing was that, with the help of this great community of Canardians, the plane was rebuilt and repainted in FIVE DAYS. I have flown it ever since.

I have not repeated my error.

Many of you have read the story on my website.
Those new to this group may find the tale interesting.

Marc Borom
LongEZ N966EZ
Ryan Field (KRYN)
Tucson, AZ
Personal web page:
http://4dw.net/marcborom

View the full article

On 12/9/04 2:44 AM, "Tim" <tlc2@...> wrote:

Okay how about designing one of these, into the top-back of the Pilots
Seat? jpeg

Roll Over Structure> http://www3.telus.net/public/tlc2/projectpage

Tim C
Cold Lake

Tim, this one looks like an overkill. I would think a lightweight airbag
with CO2 cartridge to lift the nose may be better?
Bulent

View the full article

Hi Rudy,

Have you tried just spraying it with warm water, waiting a few minutes and
then wiping it off? If that does not work try wall paper removing paste.

Sean

View the full article

All this "what if" disaster, worst case scenario speculation may yet turn
out to generate some fun!

Preparing for worst-case ditchings, the oil industry has to put all crews
through ditching training in a "dunker". That’s a section of cabin which is
dropped into a pool and rotated 180 deg (inverted) - you are given training
on how to get out. I did it, and it was fun. (In the real world it would not
be, as the pool was warm, and the North Sea is like ice)

Maybe at the next RR we could get some fuselages from abandoned
projects/hulks etc donated to actually explore the "inverted extricattion"
realities. Imagine a row of inverted fuselages with competitors ready with
the weapons of their choice; knives, hammers, pad saws, airbags etc; it
would make a great Japanese TV series.....

Bill Allen



----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
FIGHT BACK AGAINST SPAM!
Download Spam Inspector, the Award Winning Anti-Spam Filter
http://mail.giantcompany.com

View the full article

Okay how about designing one of these, into the top-back of the Pilots
Seat? jpeg

Roll Over Structure> http://www3.telus.net/public/tlc2/projectpage

Tim C
Cold Lake

View the full article

This probably has been discussed but I don't know
where to find it.

I finally am putting up a room inside the hangar to have a
warm place to work. The whole hangar is 50' X 60'
and the room will be around 16' X 20'. Is that size
big enough???????? I possibly could get it to 18' X 20
but there are major problems like a wing on an airplane
I cannot move.

How can I heat this space (2560 cubic feet) and NOT produce
fumes which might interfere with fiberglassing or painting or
my breathing? Propane and wood are commonly available
here. I think electrical power will be too expensive.

Tomorrow I am calling some heating contractors.

Thank you very much for any comments.

Bruce Hughes
Yelm, WA (near Olympia)
Longeze N199BH - almost done

View the full article

View the full article

Landing a Varieze, Longeze, Cozy, etc in a rough (and
possibly muddy) field, you have a much better chance
to avoid flipping upside, if you have the nose gear down.
I think that should be obvious. If not, I believe it could
be easily proven with vector diagrams. I have often
thought that we need a larger tire on the nose gear for
that reason.

The same is true, when you are landing in water. The
few nose gear - up landings destroyed the airplane by
ripping the canard off and stressing the fuselage. I only
remember one which occurred just offshore of one of
the Bahama islands.

As for the retracting gear aircraft, I think you will need to
do more in repair than "buy a new crank/prop" if you land
gear-up. Why? You MAY hang one of the wingtips on
an irregular bump in the soil or a stump or a bush. Landing
with all of the gear UP will almost certainly result in one
wing "digging in" and ripping one wing off. The entire
airplane will spin and you will be severely twisted, especially
your neck. It also may flip over after turning 180 degrees.

Landing a Berkut, Eracer, or other retracting gear canard
pusher with all gear DOWN might be safer than gear up.
With the gear down you MAY avoid flipping upside down
and avoid the wingtip digging in.

I have a friend that landed a Longeze in the rough and rolled
into the back of a small sandwitch-and-drink building on the
beach in Hawaii. The workers and customers were quite
surprised. He later said that he should have stood up and
ordered a Bloody Mary but he was a little too shook up at
the time.

Bruce Hughes
Yelm, WA (near Olympia)
Longeze N199BH - almost done

View the full article

This has been interesting with the usual speculation of "gear up or
down" and "what would happen?". I can tell you from personal experience
(no, it wasn't me) that if you put one of these things down in a soft,
freshly plowed field with the gear down and the prop windmilling that
what will likely happen is that the front gear rips off, taking some of
the nose with it, the mains rip off (just like they were designed to do)
causing some collateral belly damage, and the prop breaks (no crank
damage). It didn't flip over and the gear down probably helped prevent
that. It is best if this happens after dark so that you (after you go
home and put on a fresh pair of shorts) and a bunch of close friends
lift the thing onto a flat bed trailer (farm county) and haul it several
hundred yards to the airport and your hanger. Lock the doors. Speak no
evil. Spend the next couple of months repairing the damage. I'm not
condoning this, but thought that real life might be better than
speculation. I'm sure that the statute of limitations has expired by
now.

Moral of this real story - put the gear down and hope for the best.

Curt Smith

View the full article

Dear Moderator,

Too bad you did not take the writer's advice and not publish his/her
contribution (?).
Even though there were some useful bits of information in the message, they
were lost in the flaming.

Look at the email address the writer has chosen - sbutz signed Seymour.

That sort of anonymity went out in grammar school.
If a contributor has something to say, stand up and be recognized.
Don't hide behind a juvenile address.

But then, the English matched the address.

Why doesn't they look it up and/or tell how to do so?

I suggest that Mr. Seymour Butz either drop the anonymity or be blocked from
further contributions to this site.

BTW, bad English and/or typos are not reasons for exclusion. Ah messes up
in thet arey freqwently.

'Nuf said. You might just want to tabulate the responses and not pass each
individual one on.

Fly the high road.

Marc Borom
LongEZ - N966EZ
Ryan Field
Tucson, AZ


----- Original Message -----
From: <sbutz109@...>
To: <canard-aviators@...>
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 6:27 AM
Subject: Re: [c-a] Long-EZ Aircraft Type Designator (was: no subject)

Mr. Moderator,

Hello! Is anyone there? Why do you allow posts like this:

And here's a hint: you may not want to approve this message for
posting either.

Regards,
Seymour

View the full article

Thanks for the many replies to my post.

I may have caused some confusion in that I'm not planning to permanently
mount the cowling without an engine. Rather, I'm trying to use the rough
cowling position to better align my canopy. As we all know, Burt has us do
the canopy before the engine. In my case, for both space and monetary
reasons, this makes more sense for me. I'm simply trying to reduce the
amount of tweaking and filling that I'll need to do later on when I actually
do mount the cowling (around an engine! ;-)

Thanks again, this group is great!

Mike

View the full article

I have bought a couple of plastic NACA style vents to install in the rear seat area. My frequent passenger back there complains that she gets very hot and that there is no air-flow. Now, there also isn't much space to install those vents, and I'm uncertain how effective they will be. After all, in order for the air to flow in, it has to be able to flow out.

I recently replaced the weather stripping under the canopy, and have lost most of the airflow from my front vents as well. My cozy's out vents are throught the strake spar and down through the bottom bolt access hole. In looking through the back-seat access to the strake spar, I see there are two 1.25 " Appx holes in the end of the center section spar on the left end bulkhead (CS8?) and one similar sized hole on the right end bulkhead (CS5?)side. also a couple of smaller holes in each end that wires run through. How large can those holes be? Do the end bulkheads impact structural integrity, or could I enlarge those holes for better airflow?

Next, CH 18, fig 80 is supposed to be showing a bottom of strake cabin air exhaust. I'm unable to visualize this item. I certainly don't have it, and maybe I want to. Can anybody who's installed the cozy III plans air exhaust send an image or two, comment on it's effectiveness?

Bill

--
Bill Swears
94-138 Makapipipi St.
Mililani, HI 96789
Tel: 808-623-5792

View the full article

Mr. Moderator,

Hello! Is anyone there? Why do you allow posts like this:

--- In canard-aviators@..., frank pullano
<fpullanojr@y...> wrote:

LEZE for the Long
VEZE for the Vari

The author is obviously too lazy to look up the aircraft type
designator for the Long-EZ. Heck, he's even too lazy to change the
"Subject" to something descriptive or even to capitalize the spelling
of his own name for that matter. Why not filter out this sort of
thing rather than bore the 1000-odd group members with this
mis-information It would help the low signal-to-noise ratio of this
group, which has been steadily declining in recent months.

Some of the replies aren't particularly helpful either; e.g.:

LongEZ is LGEZ unless it has recently changed.

I thought it was LGEZ for Long and VEZE for the Vari.

Do Charlie's or Lynn Crawford's best guesses inspire confidence? Why
doesn't they look it up and/or tell how to do so? More "noisy"
messages.

This information is readily available to anyone with DUAT access as
well as through other sources. Conjecture like the above messages is
worse than no replies at all.

And here's a hint: you may not want to approve this message for
posting either.

Regards,
Seymour

View the full article

Hello Gary, Don and all

I struggled with a lean running 0200 with the new MS carb , nozzle and
venturi.

I talked to the techs that make the carb more than a couple times.

They recommended that I drill out the jet but keep it no bigger than
.096". The first time I went up to .098" and it worked but I needed to
use the mixture control to keep it from running too rich.

I bought a new jet and tryed again this time I made it a perfect .097"
and it works perfectly now. Its the smoothest running airplane I have
ever flown.

I used a dial indicator and sanded down some drill bit shanks to use as
pin like feeler gauges.

To get the .097" I used a Q tip stick, the white flexible kind and
covered it with rouge and spun it in my drill to ream it out from a
.095 size.

Good luck.

Paul Werner

On Monday, December 30, 2002, at 06:22 AM, Hunter, Gary A RES-RES wrote:

The new fuel nozzle you described is commonly referred to as the
"Pepper
Box" nozzle.  This fuel nozzle or main jet and/or combinations with the
new 1 piece venturi  has a reputation for being bit leaner than
previous
nozzle/venturi setups.
As mentioned before, without a good engine monitor, it is difficult but
possible to diagnose the situation.  The following simple test
conducted
during run-up on the ground is generally used to determine if a
carburetor is providing sufficient fuel to the engine at sea level. 
This test is best conducted on a calm day as blustery wind conditions
can have effect on your ability to judge RPM changes.  A really good
tachometer is helpful too.   After the engine and oil is up to
temperature, apply the brakes, FULL THROTTLE and MIXTURE.  Within a few
seconds the engine should stabilize at a certain RPM.  At that time,
slowly lean the mixture and observe the RPM.  You should be able to see
and hear an INCREASE of around 50 RPM or more BEFORE you see an RPM
decrease.  If you do not see an increase in RPM, the carburetor is
running TOO lean.  Running too lean can cause a number of problems like
high CHT's, high Oil temps, burned exhaust valves, detonation.  You
should fix it before summer temperature conditions return at the very
latest.   Keep in mind, airport altitude is a factor.  If your
carburetor is marginal or too lean at anything above sea level, it is
going to be even leaner at sea level.
On the surface, working on you own carburetor seems like a fairly easy,
minimal risk situation.  Especially when it comes to just replacing
parts.  However, without a carburetor flow bench to check and calibrate
the carburetor for proper function and flow across the throttle
spectrum, you really don't know what you are doing.  In this situation,
it may seem fairly simple to just drill out the main jet, at the bottom
of the pepper box nozzle to increase the fuel flow.  But, without the
proper tools and procedures, one can actually make this situation worse
if not flat out dangerous.
Superior, who now builds the Marvel Schlebler carbs, is aware that this
pepper box fuel nozzle can have this effect on some aircraft/engine
combinations.  My guess is that those aircraft with muffled exhaust
systems respond differently to the mod than our "hot rod" free flowing
straight exhausts.
If you determine your carburetor is too lean, I highly recommend you
contact them.  After all, it is their nozzle that caused it. 
Your alternative is to put the old nozzle back in and get your money
back. 

Gary Hunter
EAA Technical Counselor




To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
canard-aviators-unsubscribe@...



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

View the full article

I thought it was LGEZ for Long and VEZE for the Vari. If you are a generic
homebuilt/experimental there are also the H designators. I have been using
the LGEZ and the ATC hasn't made any comments about it.

Designator Climb rate Descent Rate Cruise airspeed Kts
HXA 500 fpm 500 fpm less then 100 Kts
HXB 750 fpm 750 fpm 100 Kts - 200 Kts
HXC 1000 fpm 1000 fpm greater than 200 Kts

View the full article

LongEZ is LGEZ unless it has recently changed. Charlie

View the full article

Where is the source of a slick nose wheel tire for a VariEze. I
remember some one saying where to buy one. PLEASE!!!!
Just pulled the wings today, wing fittings look like the day we built
the V Eze.

Wally Loewen http://www.psnw.com/~wgl/

View the full article

Group,

I found something (IMHO) way better then Saran Wrap. Some Dry Cleaners have
a plastic tube stock, sometimes blue in color, for oversized things, like
coats. I bought a roll, somewhere around 80 yards I think, for about $80.00.
Its not only about 36" wide flat, but you can vacuum bag in it by sealing
both ends and its relatively elastic and conforms well around irregular
shapes without creases or folds. I even vaccum molded 2 plys of BID over a
Long EZ nose wheel well. In addition, you can store almost any part in a
tube of it dust free, duct tape both ends.

As for mold release on glass, I have vacuumed several times on a thick glass
plate, sometimes doing two layers of BID to later bond to Hexel Honeycomb,
and other parts. All my bulkheads were vacuum bagged on a glass plate. For
straight glass, liquid soap works well enough but spray on mold release from
AS&S works best, and easier, cleaner.

Ron

View the full article

LEZE for the Long
VEZE for the Vari

View the full article

I followed the recent postings with interest. Noted the RAF recommendations,
and what others use. I've always used the "into wind wind low +top rudder"
(crossed controls) Here's something which may be of interest which I learned
today.
I spent an hour in a Lockheed Tri-Star simulator at an Airforce base. They
showed me how the Lockheed Cat 3 autoland autopilot copes with crosswinds.
The Tri-Star flies the approach wings level, into headwind/out of line with
the runway.
At 50 feet the autopilot puts in rudder to line up with runway heading, and
drops the into-wind wing to counteract drift. It's strange watching (and
feeling) the controls cross on autopilot. The Beast then rounds out at 30
feet. To program this into an autopilot must have been some design feat, and
must have been done for the optimum method.

It seems that this method of crosswind landings is the benchmark from Piper
Cubs to Lockheed Tri-Star's. The only other aircraft that I'm aware of which
make ground contact whilst out of line with the direction of travel are the
Galaxy and the 747, but both of these have an undercarriage system which
points in the direction of travel automatically, so it's not really landing
"sideways".

Bill Allen

View the full article

John,
I saw Steve Wright's noselift at SnF next to Puff Daddy's airplane.
Boy, am I glad I bought the Wilhemson noselift. Its design is far superior
to the Wright noselift. This is the first time I have been able to compare
them.
Simon

View the full article