GuinnessGuy74

Trying to finish up Chapter 4, but ran into a snag. I was doing the aft face of the aft LGB, and was laying up the 3 extra plies of Uni along the ears and hardpoints. On the second ply, I think I used too much heat when wetting them out because the epoxy started to become stiffer. When I would squeegee, it would turn whitish, almost like hot glue. It seemed like it was wet out just fine, so I applied the last layer and mixed up a quick batch of fresh epoxy and finished. Peel ply and plastic, squeegeed out a bit of excess and weighed it down flat. When I removed the peel ply 3 days later, this is what I saw (attached picture). White streaks, perfectly along the uni fibers. I find it hard to believe this is air trapped, as they are too perfect. It didn’t look dry to me while I was putting the last layer on, if anything there was too much epoxy on there. Is it possible the white is from the epoxy getting stiff and when I spread it with the squeegee it stayed that color (like the above hot glue reference)? Or did I really make it too dry. Maybe the stiffer epoxy did not wet out the glass? I am not sure what I should do now. Is it possible to heat this up, remove the glass and redo it? Do I need to redo the whole part? This is on BOTH the right and left sides of the bulkhead. I appreciate the help...

I concur with schmeddz. I work for a NASCAR team and all of our nutplates are squashed for tension. I used to wonder why that was so too. Nice looking work as usual Drew... Jim

Thanks Rick, pretty much what I thought. Just wanted to be sure... Jim

After a nice Holiday break with the Family, I am moving right along on CH 4. Finished the seatback, the IP, and f-28. Did the Forward side of F-22 last night, and I am doing the Aft side tonight. I have a question about the doubler. In the plans is says "...press the doubler in place, micro the aft face of the doubler, and glass with 2 plies of BID and one ply of UND hoizontally, lapping 1 in. onto previously glassed area (Fig 9)." Fig 9 shows the glass extending 1 in. below the doubler, but not to the sides. I realize there is only 3/8" off to the sides, but does it not get glassed? The doubler is held in place then by just the wet glass underneath it and 1 inch of BID overlapping the bottom? Thanks in advance! Jim

Does anyone have any pictures comparing the flat nose to a rounded nose on a Cozy? I am doing the F-28 bulkhead now I was just curious how different the nose looks with the extra 3/4" height. I plan on leaving the extra on now and trimming later, but I started thinking about how different it really would look. Thanks everyone, having a ball over here building... Jim

Thanks for all the advice. I think I am going to do what I first thought (and what Wayne suggested), which is to not wet out the fabric all the way. A light sanding seemed to remove most of what was left on there anyway. So its not as big a deal as I first thought... Jim

Drew, Kinda funny, I thought about doing the flame thing, but in reverse. I thought about running a quick flame over the edge BEFORE I laid it down in hopes of fusing any loose ends. I might give the 45 bias trick a try on my next layup.... Jim

Thanks for the suggestions, guys. Drew, I am not talking about the fiberglass fibers. I mean when I tear off the peel ply, some of the fabric fibers from the edge of the peel ply strip stay behind. When I peeled it off I have a few cloth fibers that are epoxied onto the layup. I guess this is a result of the peel ply edge that is cut from the roll. I dont know if this is avoidable. I figured I can just sand them off as was suggested... Thanks again! Jim

I pulled my peel-ply off the seatback the other day. Some of the strands on the edge stayed on the surface. I was expecting all of it to come off and the fact that some was left bothered me. I cut my strips from a 48" roll. Is there a way to keep the stray fabric from sticking to the layup? Or do you just sand them off when you sand the area prior to another layup? Maybe not wet out the peel ply all the way to the edge? Thanks for the help... Jim

Rick, You bring up a very good point! I did notice at one point that the epoxy I was moving around was sort of foamy. Almost a milky consitency. I take it I was TOO agressive! I think I will try the layup again, except maybe half the size to see if I can go s l o w and eliminate the air bubbles! Patience is a virtue. Thanks for all the advice. It is greatly appreciated... Jim

Thanks TMann. I appreciate the help! Jim

TMann, I didn't do this layup over foam. It was just a practice layup of 6 plies of BID, cut to 10 x 16. I mentioned the foam because the layup piece is clear (translucent?). When I hold it up to the light I can see the bubbles....very very very tiny ones. When I lay the cured piece on top of a piece of foam or table, it is very hard for me to see the bubbles. With a strong light I can pick out a few tiny ones, but nothing like just the laminate sheet by itself. Just wondering if this is normal for a piece of laminate to have these almost microscopic bubbles. To be honest, I didn't see them during the layup, so I have no idea if I could have avoided this, other than maybe more pressure on the squeegee, even though I thought I was pretty aggressive... Jim

TMann, Much to your displeasure, I did not vaccuum bag this part. Just used the plastic peel ply method, ala John Slade.... Jim

Ok. Finally have my table, hot box, and cloth rack finished for my Cozy. I am about to start a dream I have had for as far back as I can remember...it feels like Christmas has come early!! I did the practice layup (flat 6 layer BID piece) last night. I used the pressure bagging technique and I liked it!! When my layup cured, I weighed it and it came out to be 10.08 oz. A little light, but there are no dry areas that I can see. Here is my question: Is it possible to eliminate EVERY single air bubble? I squeegeed pretty aggrasively, but not enought to "see white" after the pass. When I hold this clear sheet up to light, I can see very, very tiny air bubbles scattered all over the place. When I put the sheet on a piece of foam it is very difficult to make out the air bubbles. I strong light helps, but even then I can only see a few. Am I being too picky? Or not squeegeeing enough? Thanks for all the input. Hoping to start the seatback tonight! Jim

Thanks for all the replies. You guys and girrrls are an invaluable tool for new builders. I just placed my first order for chapters 4-7 from ACS yesterday. Have my shop heater installed and I am building my worktable/hotbox/glass cabinet now. I bought a pair of dritz scissors on ebay. From what I hear, they are a joy to work with. I also bought a dremel version of the fein tool along with a roll of 36-grit adhesive backed sandpaper. Can't wait to get started! Jim

That is exactly what I needed. I wasn't thinking clearly. I was focused more on orientation... Thanks Marc, makes sense to me now... Jim

OK, I know there is no such thing as a stupid question but.... I am planning on starting Chapter 4 soon. I know questions should be limited until you start, as most answers become apparent when actually working on the part, but this is more of a general build question. I do realize the difference between BID and UNI and when each is used. However, I don't understand why UNI is sometimes laid out two plys at 45 degrees (seatback for example). Wouldn't two plys of BID cut on the 45 bias be the same thing? Please know, I am not QUESTIONING the design, just trying to understand the reasoning. I mostly see UNI laid along the one direction, where strength is needed in that direction. Can anyone shed some light on this for me? Jim

Awesome Big STeve. Writing up the contract now. Even though she is 100% behind me now, I know exactly what 100% means.... Thanks for all the help guys. I have purchase a roll of 40 grit with adhesive backing. You are right, 36 is hard to find in a roll. Probably going with the Fein tool anyway. I was just curious if anyone has heard anything about the Dremel Multi-Max. It appears to have the same specs as the Fein. Got a good bead on a Fein, so I am probably taking it... Build on... Jim

Excellent advice. I definitely planned on geting a roll. So much easier to deal with than sheets. As for the Fein tool, I am still undecided. I posted over in the shop and tools forum about the new Dremel Oscillating tool. The jury is still out on its quality, but it is only $98 and the accesories are at least 50% less than the Fein ones. Who knows? Found a Fein pretty cheap, so I might just snag it. Thanks for all the comments! Jim

Good to see another member enjoys plane and good beer as much as I. I guess I should have phrased my question differently. I do remember the plans call for 36, and 200 for the metals. I have read in a few places that the 36 it a bit much, of course I can't remember where or find them now. I was just curious if people prefer other grits or if I should stick with 36 and 200. Thanks for the answer. I appreciate it... Jim

I am building my workbench, prepping my workshop, and buying tools and supplies for the upcoming build. I was wondering what grits of sandpaper I will be needing. I not talking about finishing, but what grits will I need along the way? I am looking to buy rolls to cut what I need and glue/staple to blocks. What grits have you used through the build? Thanks for the input! Jim

Thanks for the welcome, its good to be here and posting. Sure beats reading about it... Kraig, I have plans #1565 and I cannot wait to get started. I will be ordering some materials for chap 4-7 sometime in the next two weeks! Jim

Anybody seen the new oscillating tool from Dremel? Its half the price of the Fein MultiMaster at $98. Not sure if its the same build quality of the Fein, but for a builder on a budget it might a good substitute. http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/CategoryProducts.aspx?catid=21 It has just been released. Very curious about the quality. Anybody have one? Jim

I've finally took the plunge. After years of looking at different homebuilt models and flip flopping as to which design was right for me, I have ordered and received my Cozy MkIV plans from ACS. I will not be starting until the end of Nov or the beginning of Dec, but I wanted adequate time to study the plans and prep my workshop. I am now in the process of building my work table, insulating/heating the shop, and buying a few tools I am lacking. I know I will be asking many questions on this board, so I just want to introduce myself and thank everyone for making these forums such an invaluable tool for the homebuilder.... Jim