Phil Kriley

Thanks Kraig! Will do!

Yep - I went and visited his site and he did what I proposed - man that makes me feel better! I don't know about you, but I'm in awe of his and Wayne's craftsmanship! My project looks good, but their's looks like fine furniture!

I guess I'd better cut longer pieces then, because if I get the angle right, the front piece doesn't touch the lower longeron doubler - it comes up about 3/16" short - almost 1/4". The good news is both sides are identical. What we need is to draw an extended line from the 16.3" location to the corresponding endpoint on the upper longeron, then place the front piece on this line and cut the wide piece to fit. So if I understand - the 5.5" and 8.7" and the 16.3" are the critical measurements. The wide piece needs to hang off the back AT LEAST .5", but it can be more...? That being the case, the angles and lengths in the plans flat out don't work. I'm thinking out loud now: Maybe if I draw an extended line from my front piece to the lower longeron and it hits at 16.3", then I know I have the angle correct, and I can just flox the gap or cut a filler piece to make the front piece meet the lower longeron doubler...? Whadaya think?

I trial-fit the wood pieces (LXY and LDX or somesuch?...plans are at home...) at the rear of the side, and neither the angles nor the lengths are exact. I adjusted the forward piece so that the rear of it is parallel to the rear of the fuselage side at 5.5", and the wide wood is 8.7" from the bottom of the upper longeron, and the two pieces meet nicely. But my question is: How do you know exactly where the front wood should go - and does it matter? The forward bottom of it is supposed to be 16.3" from the rear - is this critical? If so, then I will have to cut new wood because mine are too short. If my forward piece fits the front of the wide piece and the wide piece overhangs the rear of the side exactly .5", then am I good to go? I cut the wood exactly per the plans, but could not make them fit per the drawings.

Trimmed the glass all around the sides and checked the measurements - all looked good so I made the cuts in the lower longerons and nailed them into place. Next is to flox them into place and complete the sides. This is fun!

If'n you twist my arm any harder it's gonna break!

If I buy the Fein tool, my budget won't allow for the next two chapter kits... Looks like a great tool, but $250 plus $70 for the flush blade is a LOT of money. I was thinking about dropping $95 for the Dritz electric scissors - I understand they can be used to trim the layup while still wet and probably in the chewing-gum stage as well. My Dremel with a cut-off wheel seems to do a decent job of trimming cured fiberglass - what's the advantage of buying the Fein tool? Is it REALLY worth that much money? I can ask Santa for one if it's REALLY worth the money.

Can you knife trim through the peel-ply? It didn't occur to me to try. I'll have to give this some thought!

I put a flox filet on the upper longerons, then laid up the 4-uni last night. Took longer than I expected - I went to bet at 12:30...yawn... But this morning I went down to have a look-see, and was able (for the first time) to knife-trim! That was a nice surprise! I removed the peel-ply and am satisfied with the results. Lower longerons tonight!

Shouldn't you tape at the same time you flox? I'd think you'd get a nicer finish and better bond if the flox was still wet when you put on the tape - and youwould not have to sand again. That's what I'm planning to do tonight when I put the 4-uni layers on the upper longerons. I'm going to use some flox to make a smooth transition from the longerons to the fuselage sides, then put on the cloth.

Actually, my plans are POST Vance's fuel guage development, because they specifically have a footnote saying that if you are installing his guages to make a flat area as noted in figure (7? don't have it with me...) at location F-F. That's why I was scratchin' ma haid... But I understand what you are saying - makes sense - and I will not be cutting down the sight guage area nor the side-stick relief area. I guess I'm about ready to glass! All day tomorrow set aside, and two helpers lined up! Thanks for your help!

Thanks Jon! I've been wondering about the fuel guage thing - I plan on getting Vance Atkinson's fuel guages and the plans say that if you are doing that, make a flat area per F-F...but it looks the same as if you were going to use the plans see-through windows...? And I agree with the rest of your suggestions - I too am doing the "Cozy-Girrrl strakes" mod - if I can figure out how...

Well whatever you do, I'm glad you're going first so you can tell me how it went! My workbench is 4x12 and also cannot be lowered. I've already bought the boards for doing the jigging on the floor, but eagerly await your report as to whether or not you did it upside down and whether or not you stood on your table or moved it to the floor. I expect to glass the inside of the sides this weekend...

I have the same question - my 10'x2"x10" was nice and straight when I bought it two weeks ago, and it's been laying on the basement floor, but I can see that it is not as perfect as it was. I'm still working on the sides, so it may be a few weeks yet before I get to Chapter 6...

I use a steel brush and a scratch-awl. Gets enough of it clean so that you can use it again. If you get it before it completely cures, acetone will cut it.

FWIW - I'm on Chapter 5, but will be doing Chapter 6 upside down - Wayne's Way. It really make sense to me. I'll have to cut a slot in my workbench, but that's why it's called a work bench.

You will want 180 hp (at least) in the Cozy. If you will be solo, don't need the extra 2 seats, and are more concerned about economy, then build the Long EZ. Complexity of the build looks to be about the same - the plans for the two planes are almost identical - no more parts in the Cozy than in the Long EZ - they're just a little bigger, AFAIK. Hope this helps! BTW - the RV-9 is a great little plane. You may want to also consider the Zenith CH-601. Built times for the all-metal kits are a lot shorter, especially if you purchase the quick-build kits. Take the Sport-air workshops for metal-working and composite building - then you can decide if you'd rather build with fiberglass or metal.

True, but in my house, "If the mama ain't happy, ain't NOBODY happy..."

The original poster said his wife would prefer side-by-side seating. That would have sealed it for me right there. You will want her support during the building process - seems like her desire for side-by-side would nix the open EZ. Sure would for me, at least.

I bought a neat thermometer and humidity gauge that I really like. It is digital and has a remote wireless temp sensor. I put the remote sensor in the hot box, and the room thermometer/humidity gauge on a shelf in my workshop. With a 40-watt bulb, the temp in my hot box stays right at 90 degrees, with a small electric heater in my shop the temp is 72, and the humidity is 50%. I plan to take Wayne's advise and do the plastic tent post curing.

Shop should suffice - barely! Just got my plans (1460) in the mail last week, and materials, tools, supplies for the first 6 chapters should be here tomorrow. I almost have enough room in the basement to start...I plan to build the workbench tonight.

Thanks for the welcome, Jon! The other plane on my short list is the Zenith (Zodiac) CH-640 - an all-metal 180 hp 4-seater designed by Chris Heintz. I expect to place my order for the plans for the Cozy today!

Thanks again, Marc - I'm a bit overwhelmed by the shear volume of info that is out there about this plane! I've joined two web boards today and I'll join the mailing list as well. Sure is a busy bunch of builders! In contrast there is a real dearth of info regarding the other plane I was considering...

Thanks Marc - so I will either be ordering all of the stuff listed as "Section 1 and Section 2" OR all of the chapter kits - is that right? I assume that either way works, or do you have a recommendation? Seems to me that buying several chapters at a time is the way to go...? Phil

I called Aircraft Spruce & Specialty to order the plans, and asked the salesperson about the list of kits available for the Cozy Mk IV. I added up the cost of them all and came up with over $23,000 just for the airframe, with no options such as electric gear etc. I added up all the Section I and Section II kits and all of the chapter kits. The salesman at AS&S did the same, and he came up with almost $26,000. The estimate for building the airframe is $14,000 according to the info literature. What's the truth? Do I need all the kits in Section I and Section II, or just the chapter kits? Thanks! Phil