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dust

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Posts posted by dust

  1. Señior slade did that and it showed impressive results and because we sorta did that on the outside of fuselodge with food wrap plastic, don't use food wrap, way too much work, but i can imagine exactly what john is saying and would have definately had i learned of it earlier

     

    enjoy the build

     

    dust

  2. Ok, no wax paper, i know the plans say it but don't use it, buy plastic coverred butcher paper call wax freezer wrap, but doesn't have WAX.

     

    you can always use laminate bagging on flat layups for substancially less weight.

     

    The reason some use peel ply everywhere is that later they can fill with no sanding, in other words, no cutting of fibers with sand paper that reduces strength.

     

    enjoy the build

     

    dust

  3. OK, i've talked to a coupla new builders on the phone this week and none of them understood the reason for using the "plastic peel ply" method of construction, they just think it is some sort of peel plying

     

    I think it needs to be called something else so that it is not confused with "peel ply".

     

    Also, maybe the whole description should be in caps so that they will listen to the screaming:scared:

     

    Hows about "laminate bagging"

     

    enjoy the build

     

    dust

  4. was said

    "a flying "teeter-totter""

     

    Well YES, all planes are, the canards are just a little more and less

     

    the more, CG too far aft, deep unreverable stall possible

     

    to far forward, no lifty off runway.

     

    LESS

     

    instead of a stall you get a porpus

     

    planes are very black white

     

    space = slow

    no space = fast

    stol=slow

    nonstol=fast

     

    I know i have oversimplified

     

    enjoy the build

     

    dust

  5. I really don't know what my engine will end up weighing, i am puttting it on a diet. It is already on a low carb diet, no carb, but i am putting it on a 321 diet also, SS that is, but i am hanging a CS prop 9.2 inches from the govenor and a no mag diet, no magnetos so, for me that is it.

     

    I'm just thinkin for others, Johns is not as "light" as he thought it would be, others on the group are looking at diesels with high HP and weight

     

    enjoy the build

     

    dust

  6. OK, ifin you change it, you now need to test fly it.

     

    end of story, you have to realize that is the case, just like if you widen it, may have to decrease canard length. Simple appearing modifications have complex results

     

    I'm not talkin bout me here, i ain't cutting my bird and adding two or whatever inches, i'm just raising this issue because there can be cg problems at the current length, if the engine is heavy.

     

    For me, i am probably going to make my engine mount 2 or so inches shorter than the franklins was

     

    enjoy the build

     

    dust

  7. OK, lets get the flames going here, to counter a heavy engine, like a diesel or my continental, he he he,

     

    why not just add 2 or 3 or 4 inches in behind the front seat in length

     

    enjoy the build

     

    dust, soon to be roasted

  8. This plane day was really special to us as not only did we have drew from the forum drive 4 hours to be here and mike, now a cerified builder needing to start on his plane parts, but we had dan from this forum, who is about as far along as we are, stop by for the day to help with the build.

     

    he is from toronto and had to be 1 hour away on saturday, so, down he came. Really fun to have another builder there and it was also great as he was able to see the set up for the 3rd strake, which he has not done yet, well, i mean not strake 1 and 2 for him.

     

    thanks allot guys, plane day is this saturday and we will

     

    flange strake 3, roughly fit and layup strake 3 top and glass outside top of strake 2

     

    and ???

     

     

    damn i forgot about clifford, he is in the corner makin metal parts and installing them, hey, makr metal parts and install them, the choice is youses

     

    remember, i have three guest rooms, spelled adult children that have long ago moved out, fly to metro or flint or troy oakland and i'll pick you up, drive, bus or walk to my home friday night, go to plane day, spend the night saturday and leave on sunday

     

    just don't leave home without epoxy cloths

     

    enjoy the build

     

    dust

  9. I really wouldn't bother, tracing paper works just great and you can make as many copies as you would like.

     

    also, most big items spread accros more than 1 sheet and they don't quite match up perfectly, you can "fix" this in the tracing

     

    enjoy the build

     

    dust

  10. OK, the air problems are probably the result of too sharp an angle into the depression, don't have to sand and remove all the glass, a quarter sheet sander will quickly remove bad glass, the white stuff realy sands away fast and the good stuff stays, no need to remove the good stuff.

     

    are you using mgs, if so switch to all slow cure, so that you have plentyy of time and always dump out all epoxy FAST, thin film extends pot life dramitically.

     

    make all transitions very smooth and get some slaves, they are very handy.

     

    Always mix resin and hardener together for a minuite or more and then add micro or flox in the container, if using a bagie, put it in after mixing.

     

    your bad layup area will probably be cut out in the strake install area or the spar area or the canard area, he he he make the part perfect and then later you cut it out and throw it away, he he he

     

    enjoy the build

     

    dust

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