unick3

Please share... I have to build a DD cowl for my new plane!

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I saw two interesting designs at air shows. 1. DD cooling buy using the bottom NACA scoop. The owner took two 4 in dryer hoses, routed it in the engine compartment (from the bottom to the top), filled it with expanding foam, removed it from the plane, bondo'd the outside and sanded smooth and the 2 layers of carbon. He then split the tube, removed the form and installed in the plane with a traditional plentum box on the top. He ran "too cool" and was in the process of reducing the NACA scoop size. 2. Saw the E-racer at OSH this year. He was using DD cooling...worked "OK" but wasnt gettting enough air out the back of the cowl. He then sealed off the cowl and used 12"x6" augmentation tubes on each side for the exaust (the only outlet for engine cooling). Now it works "GREAT" and he can sit for 20 minutes on the runway without overheating... and the plane is quieter! Nice. I think the bottom line is: updraft cooling works, but I primarily hear of the engine running too hot. DD cooling work, but I typically hear the engine is running too cool. Doent take a rocket scientist to figure out which way I am going on my new plane...

I have added a "Links" button at the top to start accumulating links to sites of interest to users. If you have a favorite place to go for reasearch, please let me know and I will add it to the list!

You might want to sign up for the Central State Association Newsletter: Terry L Schubert [jschuber@juno.com]. Along with the newsletter is an index of builders and there must be 30 of them in Washington state that comes with the subscription. I didnt see anybody in the Spokane area but there might be someone in a nearby town. The CSA has a lot of great info for canardians... I think it is $25/year. Excellent buy.

For those so inclined, Jack Wilhelmson has made his production drawings for his "leak proof fuel caps" avaliable for download on his website at www.eznoselift.com

If you want to see Oshkosh 2002 on speedvision you still can on Monday 8/5/02 at 1300 (1 pm) EST. Been there, done it, it was great!!!

I always say the hardest part of any trip is the first mile down the road. I had built radio controled aircraft as a child and always had a love of flying. My final decision to build an aircraft came when I was traveling across the western states, and started thinking 'this place is HUGE' and I needed to get an airplane.... requirements? Seats 4 and flies 200+ mph, and cheap. The best deal I the world is the Cozy. So I bought the plans and started in my 1 car garage, and never regretted it. You can sit back and wait for the "right" time to get started, or set out on the road not knowing whats ahead... At least you will be moving toward a goal.

I had the same feeling about flying when blew up TWICE in flight. I guess I didnt learn from the first time so after the second one, I sent the engine off for overhaul and it was trashed.... It took 100+ hrs for my confidence to return and I am a lot more careful than before... You know that old saying about old and bold pilots...???

After 1500 hours on the longez I never had a problem with wear. My baffles are trimed about 1/4" from the pipe. There is some rubbing of the Al on the steel but I think it was just discoloration more than metal removal. If you are concerned about breakage (given your experinces) I am sure you have installed a hose clamp, or bracing near the baffle to prevent the pipe from exiting the engine compartment? ps: somewhere there is a spell checker... I will try and find it.

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I used about 1.5 gal of product (paint). It mixes up to about 3+ gals of shootable paint material. PPG is EXPENSIVE paint, but it shoots really nice. Make sure you get the right reducer for the temp you are spraying in...

for John: I am sure that 1 gallon would do it IF there was no waste, paint it all in one session etc. Bottom line is get 2 gallons and the required hardener and reducer. Make sure you mix the 2 gal. together before you start. I did not, they assured me that their mixing equipment was so accurate that it was not necessary. Guess what, I think whoever did my mixing double shot the pigment on one can.

for Marc: IIRC, I used about 2.5 gallons on my plane. It could have been thicker.

for Steve: How much paint (top coat) is required for the cozy? Getting ready to buy PPG Concept and need to know how much you guys use.

Make me an offer!

I had a similar problem. The peddle would go all the way to the floor but when I pump the brakes a few time they would "pump up". Only occurred when I had the wheel pants on. As it turned out the wheel pants pushed on the brakes slave cylinder and caused the fluid to be forced up into the master cylinder. 1. Do you have wheel pants. 2. Have you disassemble the master/slave cylinders and checked the seals? You could have corrosion in the cylinders causing leakage. 3. Air will cause a fade until the bubbles are compressed. Pumping the brake peddle will test for this. Heating and cooling does not make a difference to the pressure.

When ever you search for a topic remember you have to have a minimum of 4 characters. If you were searching for 'MGS Epoxy', 'MGS' would return an error, but you could search on just 'Epoxy' and it would return every post with the search words (highlighted in RED). Additionally, the searches do not have to be strings. You can search for example 'Prop Lycoming 0235' and pull every post with those three words in it.

I am having a problem keeping up with the proper GMT time which affects the time you see displayed. GMT is based on where the server is located (server clock time). For some reason the server seems to be bouncing all over the world??? I dont understand. Everytime I reset the GMT correctly, about 6 hours later the server seems tpo move to a new part of the world. I will reset the clock periodically, so you should set your personal profile to the correct GMT offset and if it reads correctly we both win!

What is an "avatar?" For those just starting out....it is just a very small .gif file with animation, picture, something to display. People have even upload a picture of themselves as a small .gif file. quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------- Main Entry: av·a·tar Pronunciation: 'a-v&-"tär Function: noun Etymology: Sanskrit avatAra descent, from avatarati he descends, from ava- away + tarati he crosses over -- more at UKASE, THROUGH Date: 1784 1 : the incarnation of a Hindu deity (as Vishnu) 2 a : an incarnation in human form b : an embodiment (as of a concept or philosophy) often in a person 3 : a variant phase or version of a continuing basic entity ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Another cool site: http://www.bikeforums.com/avatar/ Apparently if you search for Avatar on the web you will find lots of ones to choose from.

Is your time wrong on the main forum screen? Go to your 'Control Panel' 'Edit Options' and change the 'time offset' This will correct for the time zone you are in, and display your correct local time. It is also handy for flight planning! You know how much +/- of GMT you are.

I found a great site for avitars (those little faces/emotions) which you can load up in your Control Panel / Edit Options. You can even make your own style and load it up..... The site is http://mysmilies.com/

I just bought this is the battery from the local Batteries Plus store. Cost $115. The model is the Odyssey PC680. I had been purchasing their small 17 ah batteries for about $59 and they would last for a year and a half or so. (1 year warrentee) This new battery design is much more robust and can stand 400 total discharges (100%) and still function. Starting amps output is huge. (3 year warrentee) Now even if I have 100% discharge, I wont have to trash the battery! . http://www.batterymart.com/odysseybattery.asp

For Vance: Ah........ I see landing speeds and elevator position are again in the spotlight. Your landing speed (touchdown speed , not flown approach speed ) will be the same as your takeoff speed. there are two technique here, set your elevator trim at some position trailing edge down, leave the stick where it lies at that position, add power and let the plane fly off the ground where it may. The second technique involves positioning the elevator somewhere......say neutral, (trailing edge inline with the canard) add power and then haul back on the stick to the stops, and accelerate to some arbitrary speed, waiting for something to happen. And happen it will, the nose will come up off the round fairly quickly, but the craft will not fly. IT will take about another 20 knots or so, of acceleration, to fly the airplane off the ground. Generally speaking if the runway is rough you will use the second technique to get the nose wheel off the ground and then fly, sort of like a soft field TO in a convential plane. With the above in mind, if you have built the aircraft within the designers confines.......you will NOT run out of elevator authority staying in the CG box with normal flying conditions. Remember, it takes off and lands at the same speeds. If you are landing at higher speeds than taking off, it means you don't have the angle of attack high enough to bleed your energy off, to land at those speeds. This does not mean flying the aircraft at landing speeds all around the pattern or even on final, but do nail those speeds in the last 200 feet of descending altitude......... its called "flaring to land". My cozy III lands and takes off at 68kts..... given average wts (about 1500lbs gross) I fly the pattern at 100 kts base 85kts and final at 75kts, that leaves me 7 kts to lose when the wheels touchdown....easy !! Vance Atkinson N43CZ 1500hours

For Herb: Neil, If you really mean you are looking for something unique and high performance, here is a deal I have wished someone would try. Tracy Crook builds an electronic ignition/electronic fuel injection unit for the rotary 13B engines, Soobs, and other auto conversions and has said he would support someone on the Lycoming. Buy the dual path controller for about $800.00 some new GM corvette coils, & auto plugs, build a cold air induction box with bosses in the four induction tubes to the cylinders for the injectors, mount a throttle body control valve, add dual high pres fuel pumps, and you would be high tech and high performance. Cost under $2000.00 less whatever you could get for your mags and MA4 carb. Lots of work, but you would be a hero at the RACE events. Herb