spitzy Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 I've cut out the aileron, built the trailing edge spar, cut my hinges, and cut out the three .2" notches on the top of the trailing edge spar where the hinges are go. 1) The four layers of BID at the hinge attache points is not thick enough to allow the top of the hinge to be flush with the surface of the wing. Should I build additional thinckness in the trailing edge wing spar to make the hinges flush with the top surface of the wing skin or leave a bump on the top surface of the wing caused by the hing joints sticking up? 2) The instructions request that you cut out the .2" notches for the same dimension as the hinges. However if you snub over the hinge pins then the notches need to be bigger to accomidate the additional length caused by the hinge pin. Also, if you cut the notch to be the same width as the hinge is long (per the instructions) then I don't see how the hinge pin can come out. Why do we snub the hing pins? Should I cut out extra lenth in the notches for the snubbed hinge pin? Should I cut the pins flush and not snub them? What have others done here? 3) I think I remeber reading somthing about using teflon hinges instead of the aluminum. Any opinions here? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMann Posted October 12, 2008 Share Posted October 12, 2008 3) I think I remeber reading somthing about using teflon hinges instead of the aluminum. Any opinions here? You may be thinking of Carbon Fiber hinges. Quote T Mann - Loooong-EZ/20B Infinity R/G Chpts 18 Velocity/RG N951TM Mann's Airplane Factory We add rocket's to everything! 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 9, 10, 14, 19, 20 Done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynn Erickson Posted October 12, 2008 Share Posted October 12, 2008 I've cut out the aileron, built the trailing edge spar, cut my hinges, and cut out the three .2" notches on the top of the trailing edge spar where the hinges are go. 1) The four layers of BID at the hinge attache points is not thick enough to allow the top of the hinge to be flush with the surface of the wing. Should I build additional thinckness in the trailing edge wing spar to make the hinges flush with the top surface of the wing skin or leave a bump on the top surface of the wing caused by the hing joints sticking up? 2) The instructions request that you cut out the .2" notches for the same dimension as the hinges. However if you snub over the hinge pins then the notches need to be bigger to accomidate the additional length caused by the hinge pin. Also, if you cut the notch to be the same width as the hinge is long (per the instructions) then I don't see how the hinge pin can come out. Why do we snub the hing pins? Should I cut out extra lenth in the notches for the snubbed hinge pin? Should I cut the pins flush and not snub them? What have others done here? 3) I think I remeber reading somthing about using teflon hinges instead of the aluminum. Any opinions here? Thanks! its a teflon hinge pin kit which replaces the pin with a smaller ss pin and a so called bushing of teflon tube the length of the hinge. http://www.uslan.com/hinge-kit.html you should build up a mounting pad under the hinge to make it flush. I used about 5 layer of bid and flox to make the pads and carried them half way down the inside of the cutout. the pin will be retained if you go a good job on the ends of the .2" deep slots but some drill a hole in each end of the hinge for a cotter pin. I bent a 90 degree on one end and filed a slot in the end of the hinge. I would not use the carbon hinges as the tend to bleed carbon dust from vibration. they wear out very fast and may cause corrosion of the alumimun backup plates in the ailerons Quote Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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