zingaro Posted November 16, 2006 Posted November 16, 2006 need the procedure for removal of the wings and canard on and EZ. I dnot have the plans..thx........z Quote
Waiter Posted November 16, 2006 Posted November 16, 2006 DISCUSSION: removing a wing Irreparable damage can be done to the wings and center spar if the wing is allowed to twist or suspend from the three attach bolts. You need three helpers: The helper at the wing tip; His job is to Keep the wing lined up straight, i.e. up/down and FARWARD/BACK at the wing tip. Will need to rock up and down slightly when it comes time to remove the wing. The helper at the leading edge, positioned at the wing/strake junction. His job is to Keep the wing straight, i.e. the wing leading edge up/down. keep lined up with the strake. Use your hand/fingers to hold the wings leading edge against the strakes leading edge. 1) with the helpers in position. 2) remove cowling 3) Disconnect the rudder cable. If the disconnect has multiple holes (for adjustment) make a note which hole the cable is in. With the thimble removed, reassemble all the hardware on the cable so it won't get lost. 4) Disconnect the aileron push rod, The push rod runs along the back of the Centerspar, between the wing and the fuselage control bellhorn., it may have a disconnect junction in it, if not, try removing at the attach point where the control tube from the bellhorn where it comes through the fire wall. 5) Using two 3/4 inch socket wrenches Remove the nuts from the three attach bolts. This is a very critical stage when the wing is vulnerable to damage; The helper at the wing tip needs to hold the wing tip steady, both UP/DOWN and FORWARD/ BACKWARD. The helper at the leading edge needs to hold the wing leading edge even and lined up with the strake leading edge. There are Three bolts that holt the wing. The inboard bolt can be accessed from inside the back seat by reaching into the centerspar (need skinny arms). A helper will need to take the nut off from the outside. The two outboard bolts can be reached through an access hole in the bottom of the strake, The nuts can be reached through access holes from above and below Once the nuts are removed, do the following 6) If the helpers rock slightly, i.e. 1 or 2 inches up/down AND forward/backward at the wing tip, and 1 inch up/down at the leading edge, the wing will slide straight back. IMPORTANT: When the wing has slid back a inch or two, everybody stop and hold perfectly still. Using a flashlight, reach up between the wing and the center spar with a scribe, thin ruller, or anything to seperate the shim washers., Count the number of shim washers on each bolt, ALSO make a note if they are thick or thin washers. Draw a diagram that shows the location of these washers, these need to be put back exactly in the correct locations when reassemble. Verify that the aileron control tube is clear. 7) With a third helper at the trailing edge, continue to pull the wing back, you may need to continue with the gentle rocking. (The helper at the wing strake needs to give direction to the wing tip helper for wing tip FORWARD/BACKWARD movement.) 8) When the wing is clear of the bolts, STOP. Go to the Wing/Strake junction and disconnect any wires, Antenna, strobe, etc. Reverify that the aileron tube, rudder cable, and everything else is clear 9) Set the wing on the ground, Locate all the shim washers. do a count and make sure they are accounted for. account for all bolts and nuts before relocating the wing. Reassemble in reverse order. Good Luck Waiter Quote F16 performance on a Piper Cub budget LongEZ, 160hp, MT CS Prop, Downdraft cooling, Full retract visit: www.iflyez.com
Waiter Posted November 16, 2006 Posted November 16, 2006 DISCUSSION: Canard Removal There could be many variations depending on how it was built, but basically, its like this 1) Reach through the right leg hole. Disconnect the control push tube on the right side, there should be a quick disconnect. reassemble the hardware so you don't loose it. 2) Reach through the left leg hole, Disconnect the two trim springs on the left side. This could vary greatly depending how and what types of trim system springs are used. On My LongEZ: I have the "compression type springs and they are connected directly to the elevator trim bellhorn on the canard. If I compress the spring and squeeze the hooks on one end, I can get the hooks to pull up through the inside of the spring. Do the bottom spring first. Get a helper to lift the elevator, this removes all the tension from the bottom spring and makes it easier to get out. 3) From the nose compartment, reach up inside and remove the two bolts that secure the canard. If you look at my web site, www.iflyez.com, look under JUL/AUG 2005., there are a couple photos that will give you an idea were these bolts are located. Look at 10 JUL 2005, the lower right photo. You can see a the holes on both sides of the bulkhead. The Canard tabs will hang down in front of this bulkhead and one bolt on each side will secure it to this bulkhead. There should NOT be any washers between the tabs and the bulkhead, Although most EZs were built with nut plates on the back, I have used regular self locking nuts and large area washers on the back of these bolts. (These are AN4 bolts) When all the hardware is removed and the controls are disconnected; You can do this by yourself; In the following step, you will lift the leading edge and pull the canard forward. The back of the canard is held in place by two guide pins that insert into the canard. Often, these pins may get stuck in the canard. Not a big deal, simply pull them out of the canard and push them back into the fuselage with a tiny dab of epoxy. If the canard wont pop loose, goto the tip of the canard on rock it FORWARD/BACK about 1 inch, this should pop everything loose. Facing the rear of the plane, Straddle the nose in front of the canard. With one hand gently raise the elevators, do NOT lift the canard, only the elevators. (this makes it so all the control bellhorn and counterweights don't get caught on anything when you slide the canard out ) With the other hand lift the leading edge of the canard about 1/2 inch. Pull the canard forward as you lift the front of the canard slightly. When the canard is released from the pins, it can be picked up and moved. Good Luck Waiter Quote F16 performance on a Piper Cub budget LongEZ, 160hp, MT CS Prop, Downdraft cooling, Full retract visit: www.iflyez.com
Waiter Posted November 16, 2006 Posted November 16, 2006 You know what, I assume this is for a LOngEZ. If this is a VariEZ, The Canard should be the same, but the wing will be different. Sorry about that. Waiter Quote F16 performance on a Piper Cub budget LongEZ, 160hp, MT CS Prop, Downdraft cooling, Full retract visit: www.iflyez.com
Jon Matcho Posted November 16, 2006 Posted November 16, 2006 If this is a VariEZ, The Canard should be the same, but the wing will be different.The general steps should still be the same, no? It's just the details that would be different. One can figure this out after breaking through the mental lock that tends to get in the way of that first move... Quote Jon Matcho Builder & Canard Zone Admin Now: Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E Next: Resume building a Cozy Mark IV
Waiter Posted November 16, 2006 Posted November 16, 2006 I think the VariEZ uses two taper pins that are accessed from the top of the wing. The LongEZ uses three bolts. Everything else applies. Waiter Quote F16 performance on a Piper Cub budget LongEZ, 160hp, MT CS Prop, Downdraft cooling, Full retract visit: www.iflyez.com
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.