jany77 Posted August 2, 2006 Posted August 2, 2006 hi guys im new in this im starting building long eze from plans i get from one old guy and i did some search for epoxy resins ,which one do you using and where i can buy it thanks a lot i appreciate it Quote
jany77 Posted August 2, 2006 Author Posted August 2, 2006 i forget mention i live in california where the temperature is always around 65-72 f im building in hangar Quote
Wayne Hicks Posted August 2, 2006 Posted August 2, 2006 The list goes something like this: MGS, Pro-Set, EZ-Poxy, Alpha-Poxy. One of the Cozy newsletters has the entire list, but most any structural epoxy systems in the Spruce catalog will work. MGS seems to be the most popular at the moment. Quote Wayne Hicks Cozy IV Plans #678 http://www.ez.org/pages/waynehicks
argoldman Posted August 2, 2006 Posted August 2, 2006 The list goes something like this: MGS, Pro-Set, EZ-Poxy, Alpha-Poxy. One of the Cozy newsletters has the entire list, but most any structural epoxy systems in the Spruce catalog will work. MGS seems to be the most popular at the moment. My 10 votes go for MSG. ( In Chicago we can vote early and often, even after death) I have used e-z poxy, Safety-poxy and aeropoxy. MSG is a quantum level above the others in terms of wet-out, ease of handling, odor, appearance and bling-bling. (I use 285 but I understand that 335 has similar properties). I have never had to use a hair dryer on any MSG layup. (I use 50/50 mix of fast-slow hardener-- This may be too fast for many, but the nice thing is that you can regulate your cure time. Do not, however use this part B mixture with thick layer of flox in temperatures above 85 or 90 as you will get an exotherm I just switched back to e-z poxy for the internals of the strakes (supposed to be more fuel proof). I can't wait to get back to the MSG (I did make the fuselage tub and top with EZpoxy). Since I am going to use Jeffco as a final internal coat, I am seriously considering going back to MSG for the remainder of the tanks. I hope this shed some light on an otherwise sticky subject:bad: Quote I Canardly contain myself! Rich
jany77 Posted August 3, 2006 Author Posted August 3, 2006 thanks for your reply guys what about the temperature here is all the time 62-72f and since i will build in hanger i dont have any heater to put in thanks Quote
Wayne Hicks Posted August 3, 2006 Posted August 3, 2006 62-72 year-round would be very nice! The humans will stay happy. (It was 110 degrees in my hangar yesterday....) The epoxy will stay happy if: (1) Keep the epoxy pump in a hotbox, anywhere from 90-100 degrees. It will be less viscous (more watery) at that temp. It will mix easier, pour easier, soak into the cloth mucho faster. (2) When applying the epoxy to the cloth, it will wet out easier if you gently warm the epoxy and the surface while you're working the epoxy into the cloth. I do layups with a brush in one hand and a hair dryer in the other. Doesn't take a lot of heat. And from what I heard, MGS wets out well at a wider range of temps than other epoxies. So less hair dryer is needed for MGS. (3) All epoxies have a recommended range for room-temperature curing. 62 degrees will be on the low end of that range. What that means is yes, the epoxy will cure, but it will cure slowly. Possibly taking a day or two. I would recommend you use a heat tent to warm up the parts so they cure within 24 hours. A heat tent doesn't need to be anything fancy. Just some plastic thrown over the part with a small electric (electric!) heater placed underneath. Like this. (4) And there's always this passionate argument for post-curing. Tg (pronounced T sub G) is glass transition temperature. It is the temperature at which the fiberglass matrix will start to soften and lose its strength. Tg is always XX degrees above the temperature at which the part was cured. You can raise Tg by curing the part at elevated temperatures. In your case, 60-70 degrees room cure temp, I'd be inclined to cure the parts under a heat tent. ALTHOUGH, MANY PEOPLE HAVE BUILT PLANES at that temperature and HAVE NEVER POST-CURED. It's more a religious argument. They haven't fallen from the sky yet. In practice, it's rarely an issue. The bottom line is do what it takes to get the part to cure within 24 hours. You'll be fine at 72 degrees, but you'll need the heat tent for post curing anyway. I've done lots of layups in the Virginia winters. The human (me) wasn't very happy, but the glass and the epoxy were in Bermuda shorts with an umbrella drink getting a sun tan. Quote Wayne Hicks Cozy IV Plans #678 http://www.ez.org/pages/waynehicks
jany77 Posted August 27, 2006 Author Posted August 27, 2006 i just put thermometer in hanger and watch for two weeks the lowest temp was68 and the highest was 76 so im makeing my box for epoxy wit dyson switch ,will take the temp between 90-110 and before starting each proces i bought smal ceramic heater for heating the foam fabric etc thank you guys for your responces Quote
Phil Kriley Posted August 30, 2006 Posted August 30, 2006 I bought a neat thermometer and humidity gauge that I really like. It is digital and has a remote wireless temp sensor. I put the remote sensor in the hot box, and the room thermometer/humidity gauge on a shelf in my workshop. With a 40-watt bulb, the temp in my hot box stays right at 90 degrees, with a small electric heater in my shop the temp is 72, and the humidity is 50%. I plan to take Wayne's advise and do the plastic tent post curing. Quote Phil Kriley Cozy #1460 Chapter 13 - nose Right wing done - working on right winglet.
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