TDubs74

7 hours ago, Jon Matcho said:

Here's ACS' product page for Last-a-Foam: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/lastafoam.php

As mentioned, substitutes can also work but this stuff is ideal. It's light and very easy to work with.

Many thanks to you too!

12 hours ago, Marc Zeitlin said:

I figured that since you knew that COZY's were using it, and mentioned that, that the solution was clear. I didn't think it was necessary to point out that if 800 COZY's had been built with something, it was probably OK to use.

I can only blame my case of "1st time builder overthinkitous". Lol

Last-A-foam it shall be. And many thanks too. 

10 minutes ago, Marc Zeitlin said:

You guys are wasting an awful lot of time and effort on this. Just use P/N 01-14400 Last-A-Foam from ACS for the bulkheads in question (IP and a couple others) and call it a day. Cheaper and available without any special ordering.

Sorry Marc.  I'm bored.  Lol.  I mentioned Last-A-Foam 10 replies ago.  Where the heck were you then?!  Lol

21 minutes ago, sixfivelrp said:

See CP 26 page 3 for confidence in the alternate material and save hassle and money. 

At first i was against the idea of the plywood due to added weight, but I am seriously reconsidering that thought.  I think the white foam they were referring to was Clark foam??  If it was, I don't think that's around anymore either.  Don't quote me on that though.

42 minutes ago, jridge said:

Can you give me the name/phone number of the regional sales guy your talking to?

PM sent.

1 hour ago, Jon Matcho said:

Interesting on the West 105/206. Recall from another discussion that it's not an approved combination -- only the 105 w/209 super slow hardener is approved (for workable pot life).

ACS gives you the 105/206 with the practice kit. 

1 hour ago, tfulwider said:

I laid up the underside of the wing last night to cure overnight.  First off, the West 105 resin with the 206 hardener that ships with the practice kit cures really quickly.  My slurry was tacky before I even finished covering the foam.  The epoxy thickened quickly which made wetting out the glass a little more difficult than I had hoped.  I was in a 75 degree room and used a hair dryer at various points to help it flow.  The layups aren't as nice as I would like and I ended up with a few trapped bubbles of epoxy under the final layer.  Oh well, that's why it's practice!

How long did it take you to get your practice kit?  I ordered mine a week ago and it's still out of stock. 

I saw a Cozy Girrrl video saying to just dump the mixture out on the part as soon as it's mixed to slow down the reaction. I know the 206 is labeled a slow Gardner but still has a short pot life. Maybe you could try that next time. Anyway thanks for the heads up!

Ok.  Got the breakdown.  You can only get it in sheets that are 14.1 sq feet.  You only need 6.7 sq ft per the plans.  The cost per sheet is $280.17 plus a $55 broken carton fee, due to the fact that there are 50 sheets per carton.  SO in short 335.17 for the one sheet.

In response to the bulk buy question, that would be the full carton, that even with a discount would be over 12 grand for the purchase.  Do not see any sort of ROI there if the only people needing .2 h-250 are the ones building Long Ez's.  And at 1 sheet per build, that's a lot of new builds needed.  

In short it is one expensive piece of foam without shipping so don't forget to factor that in.  

1 minute ago, jridge said:

Did you hear anything back from this supplier?

 

I heard back from the national guy, but not the regional sales guy.  Sent him another email.  I will definitely keep you guys posted.

2 hours ago, Kent Ashton said:

I flew CE-172s years ago.  I recall that we might rub arms with a copilot but it was not objectionable.  In a Cozy III, we usually overlap arms and I told my copilot not to sweat it and just relax.  When I am flying the III, my arm will be over his and vice versa.  In a Cozy IV we might overlap arms a little but a copilot can keep his arm to himself if he wants but it is still more comfortable just to overlap the arms a little.  The IV is 2" wider than the III and I am 230 lbs so take that into consideration.

The Cozys are more comfortable than the RV-6 & 7 I've flown in but because you are more reclined in the Cozys, it is awkward to turn around to, say, reach something in back or spot the bandit behind you.  Also probably harder to pee in a Cozy.  If there is anything I need from the back seat, I bag it and/or tie a rope to it so I can pull it forward.  Or stow it under my legs.

I found an EZ quite comfortable.  I hogged out the inside fuselage wall foam where the forearms are positioned and it effectively gave me another 1..25 to 1.5"" of cockpit width.  Which was nice. 

An RV-8 seems much more roomy in the front and better for air combat.  🙂

Thanks Kent.  I'm just going to have to get down to Rough River to see.  

So what would be the consensus be on if you are on the larger size of the physical build be? I know in the rv world, the 8 is actually more roomy all around for the front seat occupant. Less cramped on the sidewalk side. Is that true of the long wz vs the cozy, or is the cozy just a better option for comfort even in the solo configuration?

7 minutes ago, Jon Matcho said:

I'm not sure I answered your actual question. Yes, high-speed steel (HSS) bits are recommended. The basic steel bits tend do lose teeth faster.

I have no issues buying bits at Harbor Freight (or wherever). Fein is an expensive brand.

Thanks Jon.  I'm clear now.

35 minutes ago, Jon Matcho said:

 

Consider using an oscillating tool, either the best from Fein or a patent copy from Harbor Freight. Several other popular brands now offer theirs at Home Depot. Be sure to get the round high speed steel cutter (the straight cutters most often shown in ads require some skill, but can be used once you get a feel for the tool). You don't need a variable speed model in my opinion. I find you have all the control you need to be as precise as required using just hand pressure. 

 

Are any of the round blades better than the others?  I saw a few choices for round there.  I'm guessing the HSS flush trim will be good?

5 hours ago, Marc Zeitlin said:

This is an incorrect interpretation of reality. "WEST Systems" is a brand name. The 105 is the resin, and 205 / 206 / 207 / 209 are the hardeners. Only the 209 hardener, in concert with the 105 resin, is approved for structural layups - the 205/206 hardeners are great for micro/finishing.

What is your stance on the the West 105/209 Marc?  Strong enough or not recommended?  

Is anyone on here going to Rough River this year?  I want to go to look at a lot, and talk to as many as I can.  With this year being what it is, I'm not sure what to expect there.

How would you rate the coziness of the MkIV to that of a Cessna 172.  I know the seating position is different, and the area under the panel is different, but would you say it's like being in a 172, or smaller even?  Curious minds want to know.

I'll probably go with Aeropoxy, but am still contemplating MGS, as I hear you use less of it, but not sure how true that is.  Not a huge deal.  I just figured it was a way to save on shipping and pay less for the product at the same time.  

Thank you everyone for the input.

On 7/28/2020 at 9:39 PM, macleodm3 said:

Must you get a hangar this early in the build?  You can get much of the plane built in any small insulated space (shed, basement, spare bedroom.... ).

  I actually prefer to.  I have no build space at my current location.  Plus the space in there will be great.  Added bonus is the plane I rent is there, so being able to have quick access to both will be nice.  

Airport manager is ok with it now, so I don't see a problem going forward, other than heat in the winter.  That's workable as well.  

You could try emailing Viking Aircraft and see what they say.

http://vikingaircraft.com

2 hours ago, Kent Ashton said:

I am going by the Hunter list maintained by Marc, linked above.  

So, I'm looking at that list and they have N/A for RT cure times for Aeropoxy and MGS.  Does that mean that those need a post cure?

I have a supplier locally that I can get the West system from. The pricing beats out any of the other choices at ACS. I know West is approved by the designers, but is not a popular choice. Any reasons why West is not worth the savings?

How far into your build are you Sir?

Temperature was actually my number one concern when thinking about this. It has been to this day.  Truth is I may have to take February’s off. It does get cold and has lower than optimal temps for about 7 months out of the year.  It’s funny because as I’m outside today in the heat, I thought to myself that I am wasting a good build day. Lol. 
A heated sub-room is needed. It is a t-hanger and it is possible to make something up.  It would be best for me to relocate to a warmer state, but my income is here. Lol. 
So ideally I will do layups in the “hot box” and rough work in the other area. Was just curious if I needed to make a dust room as well. 

Probably posted before, but worth a watch if you have not seen it yet!

The hanger I am looking at using may have a snag.  The airport manager there said he was concerned about dust from the build.  My mind just jumped to a cheap and easy solution of just putting up some heavy mill plastic, and making some walls to control the escape of dust.

Any better ideas, or success using my idea?