NeilK

BrainF,

Pressure and temperature (as it relates to auto conversions) are 2 different things. Generally, the two move around hand in hand but not always. Soon after start up you can have a cool rad but a hot block and have high pressure. The thermostat will open, the pressure will drop some but the temp remains the same. Air in the cooling system will also have an effect on pressure independent of temp. In the rotarys there is a possibly of having a cracked side housing that may show as high coolant pressure even though the coolant temp is low.

I've always used a 20lb cap on the rotary to lower the boiling point but if the cooling system is working well, you normally don't see temps over 190F. For high altitude work there are a number of factors in the cooling systems favor. The outside temps are lower (you get better heat transfer) and the engine isn't producing sea level power (unless you're blown in some way:cool2: )

Doug

I had the same thing happen on my Long-EZ within 20 hours. I made a duplicate part but 1/8" stainless. I made the part with the 4 mounting holes completely flat.

You might want to check with Bart Lalonde at http://www.aerosportpower.com. He is a great guy to deal with.

I made it for one day, Friday. Just flew in in the morning and back out after the airshow. As you can see, not too many canards. I was a bit worried about taxi'ing of the grass (very little clearance on the pants) but the ground was almost as hard as concrete.

I'm going to write SnF and email... Who paints a dark green circle on black pavement:envy: Florecent green would have been smarter. (You had to be there.)

Thanks gents, That will help.

I've been asked to give a presentation on my Long-EZ at my local flying club. I'm sure I can pull enough stuff together but on the off-chance that someone has already done this before... does anyone have a nice power point presentation on canards? Different models, characteristics, flying qualities and such.

Have you given any thought to an Ellison throttle body? They can be sensitive to incoming air flow but installed right, they are a viable alternative to carbs.

Did some old guy who has never built, let alone fly, a rotary power aircraft tell you that? I have a mind to write him a letter.... oops, never mind... I was banished years ago for plugs-up heresy.

Let me give you a hand with these... :banana: :banana:

Well that's a coincidence. (Neil is a good name.) I vote for Pic 3 as well. Stupid me, it's the only picture of my own plane that I have, at RR (the one you have your back to... with the green chair)

I was wondering when the Rough River web page might get updated with 2008 pictures. I have a few if contributions are required.

The center section spar is open enough for Transport Canada (DABI) inspection if is is already attached to the fuselage. Don't worry about that.

Here is a pic of my panel. If I were to do it again (and I might), I would use the larger Dynon D180 (or RM equivalent) with engine information but still have a regular airspeed and altimeter as backup. A turn coordinator wouldn't hurt as a gyro backup as well. In my case, I have the wing leveler as backup.

Not according to Autocad.

(testing attachments)

Canadians also have stricter regs from their equivalent of the FAA, and have more hoops to jump through.

 

Transport Canada and FAA rules are almost identical. Actually, I always thought we had it easier here in the Great White North. One small difference between the rules is that, when a homebuilt aircraft is sold here in Canada, the new owner becomes the signing authority (AME/AP if you like). Even importing a homebuilt from the States... the Canadian buyer becomes the AME.

 

NOTE: Let's not debate the pros and cons of this rule... (I could argue both sides myself.)

SAF_Zoom,

You are a long, LONG way away from needing to make engine choices. But since you asked, I think a 13B would physically fit either way in a LE. From what I saw of Perry's install, NOT plugs up would be better. Normal mounting would keep the exhaust to the side rather than on the bottom, and away from a bottom mounted radiator.

My personal opinion is, the 13B (and all it's associated components required to make it run and cool) is too heavy for a standard Long-EZ. One must keep in mind that the LE was designed for an O-235. (I installed an O-320 but do as I say, not as I do )

I made this offer to you once before... next time you're in Toronto, I'd be happy to spend some time discussing Lyc vs. 13B.

I wrote that article 20 years ago. I sold the plane 10 years ago, less the engine. That very engine now sits in my Volmer VJ22 but I have upgraded the engine management system to RWS EC2.

My LE has an O-320E2D. The RV7 I built before finishing the LE had an O-360A1A. As I mentioned elsewhere, I've done it both ways and there are pros and cons to either engine. I could get into a great, long dissertation about the plus'es and minus'es but I don't want to bore anyone. The short answer is, if you want to fly... go Lycoming. If you want to tinker, the rotary is a fun project.

http://mail2600.com/PropDesign/index.html

Try this.

SAF_Zoom,

Next time you're in the Toronto area, I'd be happy to spend some time with you going over the pro's and con's of Long-EZ vs RV vs Lancair, retracts and Mazda 13B conversions vs Lycoming. I have some hard-learned experience in all of the above. I can be found at CNC3.

As for comfort, I'm 6'1", 200lbs and I'm comfy in the front or back seat of my Long (built to plans).

Neil K

Aircraft built and flown;

Lancair 235 with 13B

RV6 with 13B

RV7 with O-360 CS prop

and currently, Long-EZ with 0-320

TMann,

I wasn't thinking of engine monitors but rather devices like the Dynon electronic flight instrument system, GRT EFIS, Blue Mountain... Any thing with a gyro, accelerometer or magnetometer. My Dynon hates being nose down especially the compass.

TMann,

Some (if not most) of the fancy new EFIS panels don't like to be slanted. Autopilots heads and turn coordinators don't like it either.

Wet carbon on plate glass works really well. Just be sure to have some sort of release agent on the glass. No need to sandwich it in plate glass since no one is going to see the back side anyway. Vacuum bagging does a nice job of keeping any bubbles out. When you're done you will have a mirror finish with the carbon weave. Be aware that you will get severe glare when the sun shines from the right angles.

I have a Ken Brock retract for sale. New, never used. (I installed an EZ-Noselift before first flight.) Make me an offer.

Here is another. http://www.panelplanner.com/

Be wary about Paul Lamars claims. He has yet to actually "DO" any of the things he talks about. Have a look at http://www.flyrotary.com/ for actual flying examples. Join http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html and communicate with those who walk the walk.

I haven't tried this myself but I hear it's pretty good.

https://www.bendixking.com/AV8OR/AV8OR/default.html

I'll throw my hat in the AeroSport Power admiration ring as well. I bought an O-360 from Bart for my RV7 and it ran perfectly from first start. I know at least 5 others that purchased O-320 through IO-540s from Bart and all are extrememly pleased. Their customer service is the best, not only in the aircraft engine community but as a bussiness in general. I can not think of any bussiness I've dealt with in the past 30 years that treats it's customers with such respect.

http://www.aerosportpower.com/