NeilK

Are you sure that none of the older rotary engines used a coil ignition?

Robert

Robert,

Mazda did have coil ignition in the early 80s and prior but it was made up of 2 coils, one for leading plugs, the other for trailing plugs. The mount you have just doesn't seem right to hang onto a 13B.

Helos would run just as hot (if not hotter) as aircraft. There are some high temp resins available. They’re just not very common and not usually available to the average homebuilder.

I’m reminded of a VEZ that used an automotive (or was it marine) fuel flow sensor that was made of plastic. It failed in flight and the pilot lost his life during the off-airport landing.

Magnetos have their place. They operate completely independent of the aircraft electrical system and independent of each other. If one should fail, a replacement is available at just about any airport you land at.

Electronic ignition provides a better spark. That is for sure and I would agree that they have been pretty much perfected. The bigger issue is that they rely on the builder’s skill at electrical wiring. P-MAG being the exception since generates its own power.

As for builders installing two different makes of electronic ignition, I can only guess they are looking for that “independence” from common failure points. i.e., a common crank sensor.

 

2. Sand off all the paint and filler and re-apply sparingly. (paint included) $$$

 

 

KS

Just a thought here... Try sanding the paint off the bottom only and see if that brings you in balance (plus a little). Then just add enough colour to the bottom. Only Canard builders will look under the elevator to see what you did.

these are all good ideas but a lot more trouble then you need to go to. fill the engine with shell preservative oil and seal in a plastic bag. and forget it. .

Listen to Lynn. Store the engine with the sump up and by "fill the engine", fill it completely. That is to say, seal off the exhaust ports, fill the cylinders completely with oil and screw in plugs into the spark plug holes. Fill the intake port (where the carb attaches) completely with oil. You may want to remove the mags and seal the holes. Fill the sump completely through the drain plug. This process will take gallons of oil but will prevent corrosion regardless of climate or how long the engine is stored.

One would have to assume worst case senerio... Lyc specs max cyc head temp at 500F. (Normal cruise at <400F) Good luck finding resins for that kind of temp.

I tried to upload the XLS file but it wouldn't transfer. I see now that the PDF got messed up a little. If you PM me with your email address, I'll send you the XLS and a W&B spreadsheet I stole from Waiters web site.

Someone did. The file author says Rick Glos so if he did gathered the info, My hat is off to him.

NeilK

 

It would be great if we has a spreadsheet of members planes with this sort of data for everyone to access :-)

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Rowan

Canard Weights.pdf

Congratulations Jerry,

You're going to get 2 thrills as you progress. The first was watching your bird take flight for the first time. The second is when you're on-board for YOUR first flight in it. Trust me when I tell you, you will never forget these days of personal accomplishment.

If I'm not mistaken, the Cozy Girls are in St. Louis. http://www.cozygirrrl.com

... and a hangar

Contact the MD-RA. They may be willing to provide that information.

For those needing motivation to complete their canards, today was one of those perfect days to go 200 miles for fish and chips. From CNC3, up the west shore of Georgian Bay at 6500' to CPT2 (Killarney) (Google map it). Fresh caught Fish and Chips on the dock in town. Back in the planes down the east shore of Georgian Bay at 3500'. Smooth as silk and a million miles viz. Just a tad over an hour each way.

This is what my buddy's Velocity looks like from the front seat of my Long EZ.

Keep at it folks. http://www.canardzone.com/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

Neil

0-320 Long-EZ

Luis,

The rotary is not designed to have a prop bolted to the e-shaft. The e-shaft thrust bearings won't last long. You will need to isolate the prop thrust loads to different bearings much the same way Tracy's PSRU isolates the input shaft from the e-shaft.

If you look around the web for "13b torque curve" you'll find 3300 RPM generates about 80HP on a 13b. That would be a lot of weight for 80HP.

I'm not trying to discourage your creative flow. Just be sure to get all the information before you spend real money. Maybe a good, used 0-200 or perhaps a Rotax 914 is in order.

NeilK

Neilk:

I have a Long EZ with O 320 with and Aymuth Cruise Wood Prop. Thinking of "experimenting" with a new prop. What are you using??? Performance??? Or any recommendation of prop????

Thanks,

__________________

Afif Saybe

Long-EZ, HR-ATQ

Afif,

I've tried a couple store-bought props and found them adequate. Generally, I prefer a course prop. Something that will give me 23" manifold pressure at 2400 RPM at cruise, at 4000' ASL. This usually gives me 170kts. a little more in calm air. The purchased props have all been too fine for my liking. What I really want is a CS prop that is light weight and reasonably priced. So far, I haven't found such a beast.

Since I can't seem to find the prop I want, I make them. The best so far is a 3 blade, 68" diameter with about 90" pitch. Unfortunately, my Hunt exhaust tends to burn one blade no matter where I index it. Second best so far is a 2 blade of similar proportions. I am currently working on a new 2 blade design with similar dimensions but with a wider cord.

Neilk

Yow.

Man, you got one clean engine bay, Scotty. No klingons in there!

I confess... The only time the engine bay looked that clean was within the first 10 hours or so... (that's when that pic was taken). 2 years and 150 hours later, not quite as pristine. Still clean but not pristine.

Call me Fleix Unger.

I've been thinking of a cable control. That may be a winters project.

Sometimes a picture is worth.... This location works extremely well for me. So well that I had to add a sliding door to get the oil temps up. With half the cooler blocked off, 90 degrees and 90% humidity day, oil temps sit at 180 in my 0-320 powered LEZ.

RG,

I re-finish my prop every 100 hours or so. I haven't found anything better than polyurethane so far. I have a friend with an MT CS prop on a Velo and it isn't holding up any better than mine so even the production guys haven't figured it out.

Such is the dilemma of a pusher prop.

Rich,

I've used the spray can stuff and although it looks like Zolotone, it scratches and chips very easily. (Zolotone is as hard as epoxy) Use it on low traffic areas only. On the plus side, a quick squirt does a fast touch-up.

I'm with Waiter... GO FOR IT.

I went to RR last year. I spoke to a lot of people (everyone I think) and no one asked if it was built from RAF or OPEN plans. Get started on your KOOL-EZ.

After 120 hours, my inboard aileron hinges are showing signs of wear and leaving tell tale aluminum dust streaks.

I've searched the archives for Teflon tubing / hinge material and sent a note off the Gary Hall. It bounced back. Does anyone have a source for the tubing that doesn't involve buying 100' of it?

Here is a pic of N499CM earlier today. It is 0320-E2D power swinging a prop that I fabricated using JC Prop Design.

I'm interested in your JC prop. I'm about to cut one myself. (perhaps we need to start another thread)

Tom,

There is something odd about the connector in the package (in the picture). It looks like the type used for car stereos. The co-ax used for car stereos is the absolute worst kind you could get and I doubt you could find a BNC connector to fit it. I'm with rickh, give it a pass and go with the RST kit.

If you are concerned about the foil tape breaking, there is an alternate to the foil. Get some RG-8 coax, strip the braid from it and flatten it. Make sure it stays about 1/2" wide for the full length. Use it as you would the foil tape. 2 lengths 22.5" long will make a sturdy di-pole for 125mhz, easily bonded into foam.

(I was always under the impression the the cap was a safety valve to prevent the hoses from blowing or blowing off and prevent the inner engine seals from leaking due to high pressue. It does not regulate the pressure created in the cooling system)

Rich, That too. You are correct, the cap isn't a regulator. I guess I was trying to make the point that pressure does not necessarily follow temperature and it's a good idea to measure both as a diagnostic tool.

Neil