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schmeddz

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Posts posted by schmeddz

  1. On 6/24/2021 at 6:07 PM, jereanon said:

     

    I was committed to buying this Berkut. I recommend that anyone interested in this airplane reach out to Dave Ronneberg about it or someone to do an extensive pre-buy.

    Dave Ronnenburg has not seen this airplane. He really cannot have an opinion on it. 

  2. I said it was an example of a spar, not the real thing!:P I would hope that was clear. Like flying into thunderstorms, Don't do it! Nor did I recommend doing it to the spar you are building! It was a strength sample. Burt Rutan and Mike Melville did that jumping up and down thing on the same type of example vs an aluminum spar in the building video's they did back in the seventies. DON"T HIT YOUR REAL SPAR WITH A HAMMER! It's called destructive testing y'know?

  3. I bought my current long-ez flying (with engine) for a third less than the price of an RV-8 fast build kit. (What do engine and instruments cost again?) It needed work sure, but I was flying in 6 months. It's a better option if you can't afford an expensive outlay of 10k at a time.

     

    No I can't use grass strips. I got over it!:cool2: 170 mph on 20K. ZAP! :D

  4. And... if you look at that site for the corvair... Why do they have to extensively modify the engine parts to make it work for an airplane??? Because, quite simply, IT WAS NEVER DESIGNED FOR AN AIRPLANE!!! What was this thread about? Legroom? Back in 2008? Oh...!

     

    Is the 5'10" girlfriend still around? I've been thru two girls since then! One of them came around twice.

  5. Bad Idea. Start over from scratch. Chalk it up as a valuable learning experience. Better than going OH S***!!! in a few years on a collapsed landing gear and finding out the part failed because you were trying to save a bad part and a few bucks! Remember, experience comes at a price. :D

    If you wait more than a day the heatgun will not work for you as the resin sets up.

     

    Besides, that is one of the tiniest parts you will ever layup. If you're thinking of trying to save it, you are thinking way too cheaply! I used more fiberglass and foam and resin to make the bookend that was a practice layup in the Long-Ez plans!:rolleyes: I have spent hundreds (if not thousands) on pieces I never felt good about using and never did. (I was doing other stuff, I even built a fiberglass canoe mold I never even used.) Cost of doing business, and education.

  6. I've had one of each.

     

    0-235 is Ok.

     

    0-320... WAY BETTER!

     

    Most of the 0-235's are almost as heavy as the 320's, so the extra HP makes a big difference with little wheight penalty.

    • Like 1
  7. Not that I like to rely on web pictures (or any pictures, for that matter) to evaluate layups, but what you've got looks fine. Micro and contour if necessary, then prime/paint. Putting on more layers of fiberglass would be useless, on an overall basis, anyway.

     

    You NEVER want to put a structual fiberglass layer over micro. The possiblity of delamination and failure is too great. The manuals are clear on this. The less sanding you do into the top layer of glass the better. It's almost better to not sand down into the top layer at all. That IS the structure.

  8. Sounds like you will have to register yourself as the builder. If it was deregistered and you got it as a new project you will have to go thru the whole process. Finish building it and you can go thru all the steps to become the official 'builder'. FISDO and DAR can tell you more of what you need to know to make the FAA happy.

     

    I was concerned about the comment in the first post about the epoxy being "Dried out" I'm assuming this to mean that there was probably a lot of cracking in the paint and micro layers. There were not many posts about that statement. If the epoxy and glass layers are cracking or delaminating, the structure will have to be completely replaced. One trick is to wet it down with water and you will actually be able to look into some of the layers of glass/epoxy. This won't work with spars and internal structures of course.

     

    Good luck tracking any history and yess....... keep building!:D

  9. I saw an article in Kitplanes about 10-13 years ago. Central States newsletter had one article also.

    The guy used a bathroom vent fan and all the hoses and duct tape used were from home supply stores. He built the whole thing for under 50 bucks. I just replaced my old mask on my machine with a respirator from AO Safety for 20 bucks. A garden hose with quick disconnects that won't collapse as your moving around the project works well. I think food grade clear hose from the hardware store works well.

  10. Nobody has said anything about goin' to Kentucky for over a month!!! Yah'll gonna be there, or What???!!!!:brocolli::carrot: Let's hear it for the under utilized veggies dancing! (Keep in time boys! No rythm!)

     

    Well, I'm excited about RR anyhew... I'm out in a tent this year... Lost muh room!

    Hide the Beer, the Rangers here!!!

     

    More gratuitous exclamation points!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  11. You won't find Dynon's used for sale except in extremely rare cases. I'm guessing you'll see many generations of BMA for sale now.

    Dynon has only had two generations of D10. BMA had four going on five when they quit. Dynon will even upgrade a reliable and totally acceptable D10 to a D10A for really cheap.

     

    Dynon fixed my D10, (Which I did find used, totally lucky me!) and fixed it for free even though I didn't buy it from them.

    Simple equals reliable. BMA packed to much fluff into their units. Dynon has less stuff, no maps, but it works! Anybody remember prior to 2004-5 what we had for instrument choices?? I do!

    ("What's that round thingy with the pointer do?")

  12. I have a long-Ez canopy in a frame that was off of a project that never flew. It might be more trouble than it's worth to get it to Washington. That depends on crating and shipping.

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