Jon Matcho

That's not a bad deal at all!

@JKillin Jeff, I am always interested in hearing about the reasons why builders need to move on and would appreciate hearing about yours.  If you're inclined to share you can send me a personal message here.  -Jon

Yes, was quite good for that compared to a solid cutting wheel/disc/stone/drum.  I use sanding drums all the time, but this was the first time I tried this.  I didn't do a thorough inspection, but I think they wear out by just losing radius.

Great then!  I was concerned that two of my canard-building/flying idols were not on good terms.  

I'll have to look up those paraffin and Lucas references...

9 hours ago, Kent Ashton said:

Light airplanes are not sufficiently  appreciated.

Thanks for the reminder Kent!  This is one of the guiding principles of Rutan's aircraft designs.

9 hours ago, Kent Ashton said:

A well-sealed cockpit almost negates the need for heat.

That's my takeaway here.

On 8/25/2018 at 6:17 PM, Marc Zeitlin said:

The riches I've obtained from this business fund all the Boeing Business Jets that Burnside Aerospace leases.

Apparently I am one of those "ill-informed innocents" as I arranged for Marc to do a post-buy inspection on the Quickie Tri-Q200 I purchased.  Marc went through the entire aircraft with me, found a few notable items that I would have not, and left me in a position with more knowledge and direction than I had before I started.

He was thorough and professional, and just as we were starting to have some fun Marc's staff rolled up his red carpet and he was off.  ? 

Seriously, that all happened (without the red carpet part).  I wasn't exploited in any way and was happy to pay for Marc's services.  We are all members of the same family, so let's keep this cordial. 

Mike, this group is otherwise known as "the professionals".  

I am looking forward to your progress reports!

This bit was my friend this weekend (a 3/8" 80-grit flap wheel).  I was able to get up close and accurate sanding between my fiberglass work and plexiglass without any worries over taking too much material away.  

At least steel is an excellent conductor of heat <sarcasm>.  

I know how you feel.  We just got the first hint here in the Northeast USA that fall is coming and I’m torn between patching a few things up and ripping my roof off (like I thought I could/should afford to do the last 2 years).

Jon

Hi Duncan, welcome!

8 hours ago, Duncan said:

Contemplating a build of a LongEZ. Just at the very beginning of my research.

Any tips that might save me some time/angst -either now or at a later stage would be greatly appreciated. 

Here are some thoughts off the top of my head:

1. Setup for this to be your only hobby for a good while.  Your life will be family, work, and this.
2. Be sure to bring your significant other along, slowly, and that they appreciate what you're doing.
3. Setup your shop now, before you get into it.  I made the mistake of dancing around these first 3 points myself and ended up moving my project twice in various states.
4. Stick to the plans.  There are several commonly accepted modifications (ex. electric landing gear, speed brake, etc.) that you can incorporate with relative ease, but ANYTHING unique will cost you time and threaten completion.
5. Consider picking up an abandoned project.  Many start but abandon after a few chapters of work.
6. Buy prefab parts to the extent you can.
7. Treat it as a project.  The only thing that makes it move forward is time in the shop, every day, even if just to prepare for the next working session.
8. Make sure it's fun and enjoyable.

Take that with a grain of salt and keep asking questions.

Extreme to extreme?  When I moved in the ceiling insulation was home to a community of mice and squirrels, so what you see in one of these pics is the last corner of it (I dread pulling that down too).  There was no insulation on the sides and there are a few places where I can see daylight where I shouldn’t.

Once I had all the insulation down and some other stuff pulled down I couldn’t help but think about raising the roof two blocks and properly insulating.  That is now my fall project.  Speaking of the roof over the garage, it’s a “flat roof” with a pitch of *maybe* 1 degree.  Makes for some interesting behavior with the fluorescent lights (to be replaced with LED lighting).

Steve decided to sell his project in 2017.  This is all that's left.  ?

I need to know where all of my stuff is so I can get to it.  I'm not building a bedroom, but this place is either unbearably hot or too cold for anything in the winter.  

It's been great being able to move stuff around, and I just hung those cabinets to get them off the floor.  I only have 2 main pieces on the floor, a large table saw and a rather big and heavy lathe (both were given to me recently by my uncle).

It broke pretty easily that way, using needle nose pliers.  

Aside from that I beat on the rest of it a good bit and was impressed that it held position perfectly — straight as the original plate.

On 8/7/2018 at 10:00 AM, Kent Ashton said:

It's sort of unusual to see 7075 used.  Is that what's spec'd?   That alloy is a little more crack-prone

http://www.totalmateria.com/Article17.htm

I did an informal test this weekend with that sliver of 7075 I had left over.  I wanted to see how it failed when quickly bent.  On my first attempt, it did not break.  I figured I didn't apply the force fast enough so I went to a thicker part and really went for it.  Same thing -- it just bent without any visible signs of cracking (I didn't get out a microscope).

The result shape holds its form quite nicely and even after subsequent attempts to bend or make the larger portions parallel, it returns to its original shape.  I could actually use this as a crank for some sort of small part.  Interesting material -- I could not get it to crack.

Another weekend of "re-setting" up shop.  Sorry for the blurry picture, but I now have just one bulky object on the ground that needs wheels (a large table saw I need to refurbish).  The difference in the shop's workability is like night and day.  

I can now get in the corner to remove that chunk of fiberglass insulation!  ?

Hi Gregory, thanks for sharing and best wishes.  I bought my Cozy Mark IV hoop and strut from your company several years ago. 

I corrected the formatting of your address.  Next time press [Shift-Enter] to get down the next line without a blank line.

Welcome to the forum!

Hi Craig, whether you're up or down that's just how it is in this poker game of life.  Congratulations on your sale.

I would appreciate it if you would kindly invite the buyer to the Canard Zone and let him know that we'll give him a warm welcome.

I want a Rutan Solitaire!

This link is dead.  It's likely that Bill's only visit to the Canard Zone was to post this advert, and I am betting Bill knows the details.

Does anyone have a full set of John Griffiths plans I might be able to buy (or borrow).  If not I'll resort to buying them ?  I had discussed w/John several years ago and all that is said here is accurate.  He only shared samples with me, not the full plans.

9 hours ago, aeroknot said:

You don't need a fancy metal cutting blade for aluminum.  a standard carbide tipped blade,  I've cut 3/4" sheet in one of two ways.  both with stick beeswax on the blade.  one shop turned the blade backwards and cut sheet for tool and die use every day.  the next place only cut aluminum occasionally and left the blade in normal.

I didn't spend fancy money, but the blade is carbide tipped and well-made from a reputable manufacturer (versus the crapshoot that can be with imports).  I was thinking to leave it in for basic woodcutting, but need to check its thickness.  Thanks!

Another "wow project"!  You are building something quite unusual and ambitious, beginning with the tube frame and matched with molds to boot.  No small feat at all.

That is absolutely amazing work from someone who has to have done this a time or two.  Wow!

11 hours ago, Kent Ashton said:

It's sort of unusual to see 7075 used.  Is that what's spec'd?   That alloy is a little more crack-prone

http://www.totalmateria.com/Article17.htm

Good article, and here's another (see the table at the end):  https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/what-aluminum-grade-should-i-use/

I chose the 7075-T6 because I felt it was superior to 6061 (I think 6061 would have done just fine but the stock I had was a touch too thick).  I couldn't find anything in the Glasair plans regarding the material type, and their factory support wasn't helpful (I was told to contact the prisoner rehabilitation company they use that produces their parts!)  I resorted to making this part myself after attempting to get the factory to make 13/16" longer, and after attempting to find a local machine shop (why did I mention "airplane"?!)

11 hours ago, Kent Ashton said:

I hate to throw shade my friend but your upper hole looks a little off center.  I presume 7075 was used because it's a higher strength alloy but with the smaller edge-distance on one side and the possibiiity of cracking, you might need to reconsider.  

Yes, it's 0.01" off center (I didn't actually measure, but I did notice before posting).  I was just amazed at the time that I managed to produce the part using less than ideal tools.  I did go to bed thinking I might make a better one, but given the application (push/pull without much resistance at all) I am confident it will be fine, off center and all.

11 hours ago, Kent Ashton said:

7075 is also a little less corrosion-resistant that the usual 6061 and 2024.  Maybe you can buy some 2024 bar and make one.

I didn't know about 2024 until now, but according to the link I shared 2024 has "low corrosion resistance".  

The number 1 thing I learned from this is that I was not prepared for the amount of metal shavings that would be created AND how I now now that I do not have a machine shop.  I am going to buy everything I can from the Cozy Girrrls.  At least that's what I say now. ?

I needed to make a replacement part (a pushrod actuator bar) for my friend's Glasair III door.  After a fair amount of research I learned that a very popular method of cutting aluminum sheet is to use a table saw equipped with a special purpose blade.  After buying the most expensive blade I have ever purchased, and making a few practice cuts, I was able to break through and produce the part.

Here's the original stock with the template traced:

The yellow anodized part is the one that is being replaced.

In addition to the new part, I produced this 14" shard of death, and learned a new level of respect for my table saw and flying objects.