Jon Matcho

I'm in the middle of my bulkheads (chapter 4, step 4), and only used a bandsaw for cutting out the hardpoint shapes. I didn't have a Fein tool when I started, but would highly recommend it at start for anyone convinced they're going to make the long haul with this project. I could have cut the hardpoints with the Fein, but the bandsaw worked great in that case.

You don't have to worry about using a bandsaw or not for many of the bulkheads anyway, as there are quite a few internal cuts that prevent you from using it altogether.

Jeff confirmed that 5.25" is being added to the width of the landing gear bulkheads. I still don't know why this only results in 3.5" of rear seat space being added.

The AeroCanard plans are adding a total of 5 1/4" to the total width of the landing gear bulkheads to the upper longerons as far as I can tell. Not sure where the 3.5" of increased rear seat width comes from. It seems it should be closer to 5" to me.

Any AeroCanard builders out there who can confirm this? I'm waiting on a mail back from Jeff.

I mentioned this and other cases, to my wife last night, and her reaction was "I don't understand why some wives are not supportive of their husband's desires!"

I credit Dewey Davis' Web site as perhaps THE source of inspiration for me pushing me over the edge. There I found he had built a Cozy and was flying his wife and 2 kids all over the place on family vacations! "I need to do that!", I thought. I'm not sure if me showing her Dewey's site helped her through whatever process she needed to go through, but I'm sure it didn't hurt.

I don’t have a PPL, in fact I never went up in a small airplane.

He has a great Web site w/Cozy info. at www.lucubration.com.

The difference widens the back by a full 7", moving the longerons out...

...wondering what someone would pay for it.

Polymer Plastics Corp would sell me a custom-cut sheet for $59.

American Micro Industries would sell me a 3' x 4' sheet for $534, where I would have an extra 11 AeroCanard-sized plates or 16 Cozy-sized sheets left over.

Perhaps an enterprising individual could add 'Cozy Hardpoints' to their product line, and buy the AeroCanard molds while they're at it.

Is there a difference between Aero and Cozy plans in this area.

However, considering the entire set of plans, the AeroCanard plans are essentially Cozy plans (AeroCanard SB) with an AeroCanard FG option written in here and there. I never understood, and now completely don't, what motivated Jeff to put "New (lower cost) re-formatted "Cozy MKIV plans are now offered for sale by AeroCad" on his Web site.

Jerry, I'm still waiting for you and the Florida crew to take over the AeroCad business. How's that coming? Seriously, I hope "starting offers are at $48K" means that the builders that have been making parts intend to take it over. Time will tell us the answer...

This timing is interesting, as I just decided to build my landing gear bulkheads and rear firewall per AeroCanard FG plans. From what I understand from reading the archives, I'm now supposed to call my plane an AeroCanard. I don't want to do that, so maybe I'll make another major mod and create an entirely new name for it... let's see, these are taken:

• Limo EZ
• Stagger EZ
• King Kozy

After ordering my Fein and level, I went on vacation, which seemed to take some momentum away from me (gotta blame something). Anyway, back in action now building the landing gear bulkheads, although with some major modifications.

I did the 22-BID hardpoint layups over 2 days, totalling what seemed to be 5+ hours. At the end, I had a very hard 8.5" x 16.25" plate of glass. I marveled at it, wondering what someone would pay for it. Didn't matter, as it seemed worth too much to part with.

Posted by request of Robert Holgate:

I am reaching out in the dark here. I have a varieze and need to know the precise placement of the vortilons. I have them repaired and painted and have not a clue where to put them, although I understand it is important they be in the right place. I have six of them, three different sizes. Thanks. Please reply 'rsholgate at yahoo dot com'.

Ron, I second Chris' congratulations. Hoo rah!!!

I have been giving serious thought to door concepts, and am going to decide after final assembly of my "tub". Unless, of course, you have a better idea...

The following was posted by Jeff Russell on the COZY mail list:

Dear builders,

 

Under the current circumstances, I am going to sell AeroCad’s molds to the highest offer. The current location of the molds and raw material are down in Naples Florida. Parts are still being made as we speak at that location. The current location will no longer be available after July 15, 2004 and I do not want to personally move it again. I am very busy in real estate and the building industry and would rather help someone get a foot in an aviation business at a low cost to them. This will be a cash deal only and starting offers are at $48K. That price is less than most kit airplane with engine. I have no problem working with multiple people if you guys want to do this as a club. I have a full list of molds and material and 3 sets of videos and instructions that show how to make the parts. Any inquirers please use my cell phone # 772-370-2638 or aerocad@att.net

Best Regards,

 

--

Jeff Russell

Website: http://www.AeroCad.com

137 Parliament Court. Ft. Pierce,

FL 34949 #772-370-2638 cell

I wonder if Burt parks it in the sun with all that RED trim???

I am a non-flying builder. It has been my experience that when you ask the question "Should I get my certificate before I start building?", you will typically get a knee-jerk reaction of "Yes, you should", but without much real justification. I have since phrased the question as, "What do you think about me building a Cozy before getting my license, and getting a license within 2 years of finishing?" Answers to that question have been agreeable, perhaps because I am acknowledging that I'm not going to take off from the local school yard.

Reading your post, your biggest hurdle may not be whether you are to be a capable builder or flyer...

When I bring up the subject she lays the guilt trip on me...

Apparently you have been cleared to take lessons, and fly in a plane built by who-knows-who, that's been maintained by that person's neighbor, and one that neither you nor your spouse really have any idea for the shape it's really in. By building your own plane, you'll know ever piece and part of the plane.

Composite aircraft are more durable and weather resistant in many areas than their "spam can" counterparts.

This doesn't actually need to become an official worry until you finish the plane (years from now).

Hope just some of that helped...

There's no shortage of words from many about this great wonder, and I just had to link a picture here from www.space.com. My wife asked me, "You're not going to switch to building a space ship, are you?"

The White Knight mothership is designated as an Expermimental aircraft.

I'm having a Fein Father's Day, and am going to have a Fein vacation next week, and then will get back to some Fein building the week following.

My wife ordered the single-speed Fein and a Stabila electronic level for me today (she actually just pushed the Order button).

Hennie, the only real reason I was considering air-powered tools was that I was pondering the use of carbon fiber. The problem with that is when the little bits get into your motor and on your hand, you can short your motor as well as give yourself a good shocking.

I have since realized that this was a weak premise for equipping myself with another $2,000 worth of tools. I didn't think about oil contamination, which makes me even more in favor of the electric version.

John DiStefano stopped by this weekend with his Fein Multimaster to show me firsthand how it does against 12 layers of glass. After using the tool myself I am dead set on getting one so that I never need to wait for the partial cure stage to trim ever again.

Amazon has a special going for Father's Day -- save $50 on a Tools order over $250 -- that I'm going to take advantage of. I'm looking to get the non-variable speed version and a couple HSS blades.

I still expect to use the Dremel and my new wheels, just not on cutting the monster layups.

Thanks everyone!

I tested the Dremel 542 blade (tungsten carbide) last night as well as the 545 (diamond wheel, see attached).

The diamond wheel is slightly better than the carbide wheel, and being thinner throws less dust. However, I found both to be less than desirable for cutting through 12 layers of cured glass. Both were great for 3 layers, but the 12 cumulative on F28 reminded me of using the basic cut-off wheel on 3 layers. Contrary to a prior post I made, both wheels wanted to kick back at times on the thick sections.

At this point I am willing to buy the Fein if I can find out how well it will do many layers of cured glass from Jerry or JD.

Happy Father's Day!

didn't know I needed a really expensive tool to do what my Dremel did pretty cheaply. <g>

Chris/everyone, I have to cut through 12 layers of cured glass tomorrow. Will the Dremel and the 542 wheel cut it? Or is now a good time to get myself a Rotozip? Here's where I contradict myself -- I will buy whatever tool I need to cut through this stuff straight and fast.

If the answer is FEIN, do let me know, but what then should I do in the meantime between now and Father's Day? I suppose I could always start the IP bulkhead.

Paul, this is truly an inspiration and judging from your Web site, you've done an exceptional job! Congratulations on your achievement.

Your plane looks fast in the video as it does in your still pics.

Looking at your Web site and noticing the doors (again), I can't help but wonder how torsional stiffness is supplied. Is there any sort of spar with the purpose of keeping the canard parallel to the main wing? Or is the airframe stiff enough as-is?

Wil, I decided to proceed through the first real building chapter with a somewhat makeshift table setup: a 3' x 4' piece of 3/4" smooth and flat birch plywood on top of a plain old 8' fold-up table.

I have no regrets with this approach as I have become much more in tune with what I actually need and what will work within the space I have available (10-12' x 20').

Looking down the road, I am planning to build a number of small tables similar in design to those recommended by EAA Chapter 1000: http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/worktabl.htm

I have found suggested table dimensions to be in the range of 36"-44" x 10'-12', and most tending to build one-piece tables. My opinion is just one of many, but I don't think you can go wrong with the plywood and fold-up table approach for starters.

Andrew, I got the Dremel 542 for $15 @ Home Depot -- I didn't shop around at all. It truly is like a knife through butter through 3 cured layers of glass with little-to-zero tendency to want to "attack" the rest of your part. I'll look for more of this once I glass the forward sides of F22 and F28.

I wonder if there's really any need now to wait for the "gum" stage to cut with a razor knife?

The Fein apparently is the tool to get when you're ready to "graduate" to the next level. For that, I'm still up in the air as to whether to get the single- or variable-speed version, or even the air-powered version. I have time on that one, but... Father's Day is coming up!

Jerry, you're killing me... I want one!

Unfortunately I think I need to decide between the Fein and this, as I have a Dremel already -- even though it's quaking in the presence of this thing.