Mike B

The space between R-57 and OD seems to be a popular location. I'll be putting mine there.

Yep

Can someone advise the correct hinge for the FMC?

Today, I discovered that when a controls u-joint binds in the drill press the boot will rip open and send grease flying in all directions...

Lodge is already sold out...

I'll be driving in.

I find the cozy seating position quite comfortable and superior to a 172. That said, in 5-10 and 150#.

West cannot be used except for finishing. It simply cures too fast. I can feel the mixing cup warming as I'm stirring. 

Something else to consider is the viscosity. A low viscosity epoxy is much, much preferable to a higher one. This is one of the reasons people use mgs.

The offsets provided by the girls are 1/8" longer than the plans. It isn't a big deal to shorten the spool peice by 1/4" to get to correct t overall dimensions. But, why the change?

I was thinking more along the lines of the Warner K2xpl.

5 hours ago, Marc Zeitlin said:

Well, I wouldn't say "obsolete", as Kent says - just sub-optimal. Thousands of canards have the old plain bushing style NG-6, and if installed correctly and adjusted on occasion, they work fine. Tapered roller bearing is better, but expensive. Pays your $$$ and takes your choice.

Jack told me it would get loose on the first cross wind landing. The plans call for MKNG-6A. So, I'll stick with that.

5 hours ago, Marc Zeitlin said:

Agreed - a close-up of the pic you posted shows a raw nose gear strut with no torsional wraps - you can't see any weave; it's shiny; and there's no peel ply texture. This is a clear indication, in my opinion, of the intensely sub-standard and unsafe work that Mr. Hanson continuously cranks out.

Interestingly, there was a wrap. But, it was only under the NG-3/4 pieces.

5 hours ago, Marc Zeitlin said:

That said, the nose gear strut is <$100 from Aerocomposites, and the upper and lower castings, as well as the NG-3/4 are easily salvageable. Heat and a hammer will break them free of the strut, and you can grind out the residue. Or just grind the strut out of the castings, since you're not trying to save the strut.

The strut is now $148. And yes, a little heat and a hammer removed the castings.

5 hours ago, Marc Zeitlin said:

 Actually, for bonding, JB Weld is probably superior to flox in a laminating epoxy - the bonding strength is higher. No one in the industry uses laminating epoxies for bonding - various Hysols are common bonding agents, and JB Weld is in type of family. So that was the least of the issues with the nose strut assembly - really, the only issue was that the strut wasn't wrapped - if it had been, you could have easily lived with the JB Weld and older style NG-6.

That casting on the top is the obsolete one. He assured me it was not. I've spoken with Jack about that casting. You do not want it on your plane. It is bonded to a strut that is NOT wrapped. Because it is not wrapped it is already splintering where the through bolts are drilled. To use the strut I'd have to figure out to remove the obsolete casting, grind off all the JB Weld and start over. I have no knowledge as to the properties of JB Weld. So, it won't be on my plane. I have spent time messing with it. It does not appear to have the tensile strength of flox and is not as hard. Of course, I'm using EZ Poxy. That stuff is like granite when it is dry; lots of fun to sand.

On ‎12‎/‎30‎/‎2019 at 5:41 PM, Marc Zeitlin said:

If you missed my warnings on the COZY and canard-aviators mailing list, be VERY careful with anything that David Hanson has worked on from a structural or aerodynamic standpoint. Caveat Emptor.

I, unfortunately, missed the warning. Now, I have a $700 paper weight. Although I'm incredibly angry at being sold X and getting Y. I'm stupefied that it appears the pivot was bonded to the nose strut with huge globs of JB Weld?!?!?

#5 - Use acetone to clean non-cured sticky from the squeegee, gloves, scissors, etc.

For sanding I use 40 grit. Buy a sticky back roll. You can make whatever pattern you need to get that shape sanded.

When applying the micro I use a consistency that is easily spread but thick enough it won't run off the edge of the part. 

There is an old video on Youtube with Burt and Mike. That is the only instruction I've had prior to building. 

Don't plan on moving the seats. I'm 5'-10" and the rudder pedals are in the perfect location.

I've seen couples who are clearly over 200# each in a cozy 4. So, it is certainly possible.

I'd suggest a trip to Airventure and take a look at all the options. I did. It confirmed I made the right choice. For me, the Cozy is very comfortable. So comfortable I feel like napping every time I hop in. Of course, I'm thinner than most.

If I had $250K to spend, I'd buy the RV-10. 

6 hours ago, TMann said:

You mean like it does for a Long-EZ, Vari-Eze or Berkut?

Better do some research. 😁

I thought about that after I clicked on the "submit reply" button. Of course, the Cozy wheel is 1/2" wider...

4 minutes ago, rotccapt said:

 

Another question for your guys, for the landing gear attachment points, from the plans I am to make a 22 or so layer block of glass equaling a total of 1/4 inch. Any reason why a sheet of 1/4 inch g-10/fr4  could not be substituted for this part?

Yep, money. You can make that thing from scrap glass. You'll have lots of it. FYI, there was a stagger EZ out there at one point. 

In a center line position your feed would occupy the same location as the retracted nose wheel.

A 6'-4" person isn't fitting inside the plans version of either aircraft. That said, you can certainly deviate. Folks have added both height and width. If I was in your position, and really wanted a cozy, that is what I'd do.

I suppose a center line config may be possible. You'd have to go with a fixed nose gear. 

For some perspective, the front seat bottoms are 16" wide, the back, 12" wide...

I'm 5-11, 150#, and left handed. This plane fits me perfectly. 

11 hours ago, Jon Matcho said:

...or just ignoring the email notifications, or has them turned off, or he doesn't like you 🙂

I haven't been asked to take it down, which may be a good sign.  His last visit was on May 25th and your PM was on May 30th.  Did you try his email ("aviator 'at' mindspring 'dot' com")?

Yep, also tried contacting him through the other canard forum where this was also posted. 

No response from the OP. So, I'm guessing he is off the forum.

The strut dimensions, in profile, are identical.

DXF is perfect. A second-hand LEZ strut just arrived. I look at it tonight.

Well, kinda. They won't make any more struts until there are enough main gear bows ordered.