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About Fleal68

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  • Location (Public)
    Houston, TX

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  • Plane
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  1. Just an idea. Run some soldering wire along the top cowling. One end to chassis ground, the other end to a single pole double throw relay to the coil. Positive on other side of the coil to energize it. Send positive to the normally close contact , through the relay then to the panel. At the panel, a simple red LED with a 1k resistor to indicate that the solder loop has broken, or melted. A second LED green can be added to the solder loop to verify that it is working properly. All of this is very lightweight and inexpensive. Make sure you use a very low amp relay, also bench test it before installing it. A second loop can be run if you want redundancy. Hope this was helpful. Felipe
  2. Thanks for the reply, one idea I've got is to keep the current battery setup and run some short cables to the back seat area and put a jumper jack to jump start it with and hand held battery pack. The starter has its own solonoid , just need to run a wire to a momentary switch in the cockpit somewhat close to the throttle levers. Not sure what amperage those units put out, but should do the trick. Still fabricating the exhaust and connecting the sensors but I'm just trying to get ideas. I actually ran one cable from the front to the back but yeah, that idea is getting too heavy and don't think I can squeeze in the second cable. I'll probably pull it back out and use it to fish in the starter switch cable along with a Hobbs time cable. As far as the prop goes, the original engine was rated 115 hp and the engine I have is only 85 hp. I'm sure the pitch is not going to work but was wondering if I can use it to test run the engine. My clearance should be good on the back section unfortunately my top cowling is making contact with the top spark plugs, so will need to do some modifications to the top. Anyone with a similar situation and figure out a workaround. Let me know. Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks, Felipe
  3. On my C85 when I bought it, it came with a pice of sheet metal that was bolted along with the top screws of the tank, I'm not sure what type of aircraft my engine was previously on but I'm assuming that it had the same problem. To better describe it, it was like a heat shield on a motorcycle exhaust pipe with about a quarter inch gap not rubbing on the tank. The O200 tank is a bit larger and if you happen to find a fabricated baffle, not sure that it will bolt up to the back side of the tank. It think the bolt pattern prevents you from putting it on backwards. What you can do is mask off the tank and make one out of fiberglass to match the contour of the tank. I haven't fired up mine yet but I may have the same problem. As far as the trim servo goes, I would try to test it with a power source, it may be a bad switch or broken wire near the wing attachment area. If you verified all of that, the i think it's a servo motor for a remote control plane. Any local hobby shop should have them in stock. If you have the built plans, it should have the info. I'm not an expert but hope this helps.
  4. Greetings, So my Verieze prodject started with a complete airframe but no engine, due to limited funds I ended up with a C85. Previously it was built with an O235 but was taken off from another home builder that just wanted the engine and mount for his project. It was originally built without a starter and was hand propped but for my own safety I went with the sky tech starter. Originally the battery it has is only a small motercycle 12v battery and is not sufficient to crank the engine. Another problem i foresee is the added weaight of the new cables, celinoids, and larger battery. I'm open to any suggestions, or someone who has been there done that to move forward with my project. Other sudgesstions on my project is, Can I use the previous installed poropeler and how do I time it to avoid exhaust ? Also how far does the prop need to be from the trailing edge of the engine upper and lower cowling? Fabricating new exhaust pipes and adding a heat exchanger for carb heat. Trying to match all the OT/OP tachometer CHT/MT sensors or just go with a new engine monitoring system. Which system is best for type design and is sold at a reasonable price. Engine baffles, I have two sets of plans, one plan boxes around the engine and the other is with the plans of the plane. Traditional design. My airframe does have the P51 scoop intake. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks, Felipe

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