ErlendM

Be sure you understand this change completely before you continue. I tried to follow the 6.25" suggestion and wound up with a 1/2" gap between the canard trailing edge and the face of F28. I had to make my tabs 3/4" thick.

It seems like I can just postpone F28 until chapter 12. I've read through the plans and can't see any reason to add F28 at all until I am going to mount the canard. Then I will be able to get the correct position.

Erland,

 

I looked at the photos on your website and you'll need to move the doublers back or you'll end up cutting them off completely in chapter 6 when you remove the area for the canard.

I discovered this myself right before I started this thread . I managed to flox the doubler in front of the 5" mark instead of behind. Luckily I managed to correct this before I glassed the longeron...

However - the question 5.9" vs. 6.25" is open still. I got an answer on the Cozy-list where I was adviced to move the doubler to position 5.5" instead of 5.0". When I measured on the plans this makes sense. It gives more material to attach the bolt later on.

Looks like the FAQ should be updated a bit. The text in chapter 5 should be moved to chapter 6, and maybe it should be adviced in chapter 5 to move the doubler from 5.0" to 5.5".

In the Cozy-FAQ it says in ch 5: Change the 5.9" dimension to 6.25". I understand why, but I can't figure out what part in ch 5 I should change. I find this in ch 6, but I can't see any place that 5.9" is mentioned in ch 5.

Could anyone please enlighten me here?

Looks real nice!

Will this fit a Cozy as well?

Would you be able to sell these?

I have a question regarding the ribs on the instrument panel.

The BID that goes on the "hole"-side of the rib - where does it stop? Do I wrap it on the aft side (I don't think so), do I end it flush with the aft side?

Could anyone please point me to the place where making BID-tapes are explained?

Thanks!

Did the rest of the glassing yesterday, following some of the advices given. I know one of the mistakes I did previous, I poured way too much slurry on the foam, and struggling to remove the excess I was too sloppy and much went outside the foam.

This time I used a brush and painted on the slurry at places with little foam, and used the squeege with causion. I also put the pieces on some foam-parts to elevate them as suggested. Worked like a dream, and I could easily wipe off the few drops that came underneath.

Now the parts are curing under weight - I'm looking forward to see the weight of my parts.

I'm concerned about the durability and the longevity of a composite structure. In the event that the a/c can't be hangered and will spend a considerable amount of time exposed to the elements, especially direct sun exposure, what, if any problems have been encountered? Do I need to be concerned about this?

Dean,

think about all the composite-built boats you see around in the harbours...

No reason to worry!

Many interesting answers here!

I did weight the parts down, so yes, the epoxy/slurry is flat. And it's not THAT much. I'll just rub it for now.

It could be a good idea to raise the parts a bit, I'll try that approach now when I am going down to my garage.

Too little micro? Perhaps... I mixed it so it looked like the slurry that Rutan and Melville used in the composite-video. Approx the same volume with micro as epoxy. How does that sound?

The saga continues...

Just a general question:

When I worked with the seatback and now bulkheads, I got microslurry and epoxy on the underside of the foam. I have covered my workbench with saran-wrap and some of the slurry and epoxy that was spilled went in between the foam and saran.

• Is there a way to avoid this?
• Do I just sand this away before I begin to work on the opposite side?
• And how do I avoid this to happen on the now already finished glassed side that will be facing down?

Sweet! Another person starting at rock bottom with me!! Congrats on your plans.. Now the fun begins. Like ... Reading the Plans.. Is that a Pirate doing Layup?

You're not alone at all! I'm the owner of plans #1556. Have just started on ch. 4. Front seatback is done, finished aft side of F22, F28 and IP yesterday. This is fun!

Thanks for sharing, Chris!

This was a great inspiration for me - just started on the first bulkheads!

Then I'm ready after spending countless of hours in preparing my garage for the project. I'm rather pleased now, here are some pictures and a description of how it looks like:

http://cozy.ljosnes.no/preparations.html

Is there anything new about the situation at Superiors?

It seems like it might get all messed up from sanding the hardshell.

Sorry for interupting - but beeing new to this, what is hardshell?

A lot of fun!!

I definitely want to have one! where can I find plans to build it??

Try this site:

http://www.flyingthingz.com/

Yeah, I drove up to an RC airfield once just as a lawnmower flew past my car. WTF? It was funny.

 

Pretty cool though that they can get something shaped like a lawnmower to fly that well.

I am a RC-instructor and the favorite video I show my "students" is this one.

Go to a hardware store or pool supply place and get a gallon of 25 %phosphoric or hydrochloric acid for WAY cheap.

That's interesting! Hydrochloric Acid is in my hardware store. I even used it to rinse my concrete-floor prior to painting it!

The Hydrochloric Acid is 30%. Do I just submerge the parts in this fluid for 2 - 5 minutes, then rinse in water? Will this be adequate prior to Alodine?

Edit: If I am to use Alumiprep 33 I should use 25 parts Alumiprep to 75 parts water. I guess I should use the same mixture with HCl?

Now I've got Alodine from Spruce. However - they could not send Alumprep since it's considered Hazardous. Is it ok to clean the aluminum with acetone before I use Alodine?

Here are some diagrams, may help explain the above picture better.

Could you repost the last two pictures please? They are a bit small to read the text...

Is it correct to assume that all parts of aluminum should be treated to avoid corrosion? I plan to use Alodine 1201 on all parts that are not pre-manufactured and treated.

The plans calls for 2024-T3 and I have ordered as pr. plans. However I spoke with an other builder (and flyer) - he says he used 6061-T6 all over, with no corrosion-protection. Does anyone have experiences with this? I feel more comfortable to stay to the plans, but if the other type is better, and doesn't need protection, than it will be easier to just use that.

I myself don't much like the thought of a strap across my privates!

I can see that one . I was just thinking that since the seat is so reclined, wouldn't the body easily glide under the lap-belt in case of a chrash or instant stop?

Is it possible to mount a 5-point racing-seatbelt in the Cozy? How/where should I attach the crotch-belt?

If I am to peel-ply everything (Cozy IV) - could someone please give me a roughly estimate on how many yards or meters I would need? My local supplier can deliver peel-ply in 1,6 meter wide rolls (63").

Good pics. My problem is not realyy losing wieght. I'm 6 ' with a 18 1/2' neck and a 54" chest. I could maybe get down to 225 Lbs. if I looked like Stallone in Rocky 3. I think the smaller girlfriend is easier:confused:Not to sound like a braggart, but losing size is not a option for me while still having enough limbs to operate the aircraft. I'm not smart enough to start modifying a aircraft either. Never stopped me with things on the ground, but up in the air? Two kids to support. I may do stupid things often but that's not going to be one of them.

Why not redesign the fron-seats to make it a big one-seater? You will then still have room for your two kids in the back-seat and room for luggage at both sides of the front seat.

What do you think concrete saws were made for???

Steve build on

Like this guy who built his own Lamborghini Countach in his basement - without any doors at all...

The story is here:

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/3382143/Man-digs-under-house-to-remove-home-made-Lamborghini.html