mfryer

For those building a Long/OpenEZ how wide are you going?

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

Stock, plans width.

Looks spiffy. =)

Maybe just cut it so that it isnt so wide/long and interferes with your leg?

Of course I had to sit in it and check it out. There was no interfierence with my leg at all, however there is no padding yet, still I doubt there will be any interference with my leg.

 

...... off the subject:

No window to check the nose gear?

All in due time Mann! I just need to find a scrap of plexi. I had some from my canopy, but it is curved and tinted. I tried to flatten it out by heating it in my "autoclave" with somewhat successfull results. It is still tinted, but at least flat. Anyhow It will be there eventually.

Looks good

The main thing is to use push/pull type cable and not the pull only and the spring that is used on the Brock throttle

Absolutly, push/pull cables. Thanks.

While awaiting materials and parts for my canopy I got a little diverted and decided to work a little on the pitch trim and left front console. I had the materials on hand.

 

Unfotunatly I got a little carried away and also purchased a throttle quadrant. I have been admiring the RV quadrants for quite a while and dispite the fact that they are non-reversing I purchased one, modified the levers and installed it in my left console....

 

I imagine this might not have been the best desision, however I like how the final results worked out. Any comments (constructive or otherwise) are welcome.

 

 

 

full size images and more description at...http://www.flyingbackward.blogspot.com/

Thanks for sharing those.

 

If I could wave my magic wand, my Long-EZ would be complete and flying also.

Another reason to call it the hell hole.

Thanks Bruce I just found that right after I posted this. I would still need the verbage on layup schedule for th Roncz unless its just like the GU ?

 

The HP Rudders are a whole other story I can't seem to find them anywhere on here and $300 for them is quite a bit as well.

 

Chris

Remember that there are other differeneces between the GU and Roncz canard besides just the airfoil. The meathod of attaching the elevators and tourque tubes are quite different. I can think of one builder who nearly completed his canard before this fact was pointed out. You will need the full Roncz plans to complete the construction.

 

Also the TERF CSs are less expensive if you purchase from ebay...http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rutan-Aircraft-Factory-Encyclopedia-Long-EZ-Airplane_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ50453QQihZ013QQitemZ230343988420QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

You're welcome. I'm going to the Arlington fly-in again this year, I'd like to drop by and take a peak at your handy work. Will you be around?

 

Bruce

Absolutly. I also plan on visiting Arlington this year. Let me know when you plan to be around the Olympia area and Ill try and set asside some time.

Any help would be appreciated or maybe this is something I can just live with?

I am by no means an expert here, but the thought of a possible control system malfuction really concerns me.

 

Have you joined Central States yet? If not, I recomend you do. They will suppply a list of builders/flyers/wanabees and you likely will be able to find someone locally who can assist you with this.

Bruce, thanks for all of your hard work on the book. I look forward to placing an order for one with you.

 

Martin

Do the sandpaper trick!

(i.e. walk into the shop and pick up a piece of sandpaper ..... the rest happens on auto-pilot.)

Wow! Kraig, if you did all that by just picking up a piece of sandpaper I have been doing my project all wrong!!

The bulkheads do not take much time to cut by hand. I do not really see the advantage to having those machine cut.

That is a sweet looking bird!

Ditto, that is a very nice looking VariEze! Congradulations!

 

Yeah ..... I plan on flying without pants until I get the landings down as well ............... and I have retracts!

It really saves on the entire laundry thing.

Hoepfully Tom I will get to see your aircraft one day. Just remember to stay inside the cockpit with the canopy down and lached! You must be a TV anchormann for your day job.....

Ditto here. I am awaiting my canopy from Todd. I finally just started flipping through the plans for something to work on and decided to start on one of the side consoles.

 

Canopy is scheduled to arrive next week, I still don't know if I enjoy waiting for parts or despise it.

What a strange idea. Why not use the air pressure built up under the fuselage by the positive incidence?

Yes, remember that with aircraft design, you wouldn't want anything strange....

I was getting ready to start my wings and it turns out that all of the gloves I just got from Aircraft Spruce are all for the left hand.

Now what??????

I will trade you for half of mine. They sent me only rights.

WB: I didn't, no, because I made my own upper cowl to suit airframe and engine (undecided at that time) afterwards....

 

...It would mean hanging an engine and prop extension and raising the aft canopy to get a smoot line all the way to your spinner. At first it sounds like extra work, but I'm happy with the results.

Well I don't have an engine, spinner or cowel yet and will not for quite a while. This almost is turning into the old chicken and egg paradox (but not quite).

For now I will just try and make everything clean from the canopy forward and worry about the aft end later (future self, please don't hate me.).

 

WB: I left Seattle back in 2005 and am now back in Australia. Unfortunately, I only ever made Arlington in 04.

I Must have been misinformed, someone I met at Arlington said you were there, or perhaps I misunderstood.

 

Anyhow I just sent off a check to Todd Silver for a canopy. I look forward to it's arrival. This should be fun..

 

Thanks.

mfryer,

 

Building the entire upper section of your aircraft concurrently works well. If you can afford to buy your canopy bubble, and do this, I absolutely recommend it.

I just got done sending and email request for a quote from Todd's canopies. After seeing all the photos of your craft it would be difficult to justify not following your advise.

 

When you say "entire upper section" are you also referring to the cowling as well?

 

I understand that I missed your Long at last years Arlington fly-in by a few hours. Are you planning to return? I plan to arrive more prepared with extra batteries and memory for my camera and expect to gather as many notes from builders as I can.

 

Thanks

 

Martin

I detailed how I did mine in this post:

http://www.canardzone.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3296

 

Yes I did see your post and I think it is an interesting approach. However I feel comfortable shaping the nose freehand, even more so if I can employ my brother who is an artist/sculptor/carpenter and has some body work experience.

But thats my .02 Cents

 

Below is a pic of Eric Cobbs nose, which isn't to long but adds a nice effect. Notice what would happen with the longer raked/sloped front of the canopy?..It would mirror the nose shape more, and be tasty!!

Thanks for the pennies. I agree that Eric Cobbs nose looks really good and my goal is to have something similar. Not an outragious long nose and not the stubby stock nose (yes I agree some stock noses still look good). Your ideas with the canopy would be interesting to see, however I like the looks of the stock canopy.

 

At this time I am seriously considering ordering the canopy to ensure that I have a really nice smooth and proper looing transition from canopy through canard to the pitot.

If you're using an electric nose gear retract (Wilhelmson, Wright etc) moving the battery in front of NG31 is not necessary for a Lyc 320, or a 360. I believe a long nose looks better however.

 

No electric lift. I am using a stock brock assembly. However as I approch the big 40 I seem to be not quite the stick I used to be. Perhaps ballast will come naturally.

 

1. The nose needs to start with the NG30 lower shape. The curve gets tighter in radius as WL increases with decreasing FS. If that curve is continued naturally, that allows the aircraft to sit on it's nose and keeps the pitot out of the dirt.

 

understood. I plan to follow the plans curve up to the pitot to ensure I don't have a lawn dart.

 

3. With a round pitot, the nose changes from the F22 location (essentially rectangular) to a circle. The nose should never have a circle along it's length until you hit the pitot.

 

that makes sense...

 

4. The top nose lines start with the canopy rails. REcommend: Core your canopy thru canard cover thru pitot in one hit, glass them in one hit. knife trim out the canard and canopy (I had already completed the layups on the canard fairing faces for & aft, so I simply knife trimmed it out).

 

Concern here. Are you recomending I hold off on the nose untill I have the canopy? Perhaps I could make a false canopy (just the front area). Or perhaps the canopy would be an interesting diversion....Hmmmmm

 

Thanks Wayne, you have given me some further things to ponder. Good input.

I have been mulling the nose shape of my Long-EZ since I have begun the project and I think I have a strategy. I am planning to extend the nose about 6" at this time for two reasons:

 

1). I don't really like the look of the plans build nose. It has a boxy look and doesn't seem to have a nice smooth curve. And I do not think I would like a really long nose that some folks have. Waiters, Waynes look super duper cool however, I just want a comprimise and something a little different.

 

2). I have not decied on a power plant, however I am leaning towards an O-320. That being said, from what I have read to date, I may need to move many components forward and/or balast the nose. The modest extention may allow for more room for these things.

 

My SL-30s have already been made to plans so my strategy to extend the nose is to place a 2.5" foam block to move the NG-31 forward and then add enough foam forward of NG-31 to make a nice shape. The bottom of the nose will follow the plans curve to ensure it can still be parked without the pitot hitting the ground.

 

If anyone can think of any reason to advise against this, or has any suggestions, please let me know. Thanks

 

Martin

And the only difference today is that instead of one empty beer bottle, there are 20 cases of empties under the table!

Not quite. I do occasionaly make my way to the recycle center. And I have made some progress on the plane. Otherwise that is about right..

 

Anyone know of a source for the smooth 2.80/2.50-4 nose wheel tire?

 

This place can no longer get them:

 

http://specialtytirestore.com/smooth_tires_p.htm

 

Ken Miller does not have them either.

 

6-Ply ribbed Aero Classic tires are available here:

 

http://www.desser.com/

 

and of course Spruce and others sell the standard McCreary (now Specialty Tires of America, STA) treaded tire.

 

Where to get the smooth style?

 

On another note, does anyone know what the inflated diameter is of the above Aero Classic tire?

 

Many thanks!

I just recently got mine from Desser. Search for 280/250-4 6 PLY AERO CLASSIC

 

$35.95

 

Outside diameter is about 9" inflated.

 

Then I'm ready after spending countless of hours in preparing my garage for the project. I'm rather pleased now, here are some pictures and a description of how it looks like:

http://cozy.ljosnes.no/preparations.html

 

I remember when my shop looked something like that....