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Jason Heath

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Posts posted by Jason Heath

  1. Erland,

     

    I looked at the photos on your website and you'll need to move the doublers back or you'll end up cutting them off completely in chapter 6 when you remove the area for the canard.

  2. In the Cozy-FAQ it says in ch 5: Change the 5.9" dimension to 6.25". I understand why, but I can't figure out what part in ch 5 I should change. I find this in ch 6, but I can't see any place that 5.9" is mentioned in ch 5.

    Could anyone please enlighten me here?

    It's somewhere at the beginning of chapter 5 when your building the longerons and attaching the front doublers, I don't have my plans or I would point you to it.

     

    If you epoxy them too far forward, they may end up shorter than you want for the canard attach point, too far back and you'll need to add to them. Chapter 6 deals with attaching F28 at the 6.25" dimension.

  3. I find it hard to believe this is air trapped, as they are too perfect.

    But that's exactly what your seeing.

     

    I had the same thing happen during my first attempt with UNI so I played with epoxy temperatures ranging from room temp epoxy to hot boxed epoxy at 110 degrees, with and without a heat gun or hair dryer. I could always duplicate both positive and negative results and found that my application and inspection technic had everything to do with the outcome.

     

    Epoxy temperature is certainly important but how to use a brush, roller, squeegee, flashlight and your inspection of each layer are equally important.

  4. 1) Pic 1, Does this tab of the firewall stay on or get cut off? I think it stays on.?

    yes, it stays on.

     

    2) The acute angle area of foam. Does this need a flox corner to the inside skin?

    I did on mine, regardless of what goes on later, it was a candidate for a flox corner.
  5. While there is nothing in the plans that has you check it, you can at least make sure the angle is the same on each side. I used the boards and clamps method to set the flox pad with a laser (and string and sight tube and you name it) which also allowed me to draw a vertical line on the wall and adjusted the camber and toe at the same time. There was a slight difference between the two sides when I was checking everything which I could have made alot worse if I hadn't been looking for it and just added flox and dealt with the toe.

     

    Read Cozy NL# 64 "Main Landing Gear Spread" for some history on the subject. The camber change has already been taken into account in the design of the strut assuming a builder doesn't assume for themselves where the camber should be set.

     

    ps, there is "Owners Manual Addition" in NL# 65 regarding camber.

  6. What about pearls?

    The biggest problem you'll find with pearls (and candies) is the uniformity of them initialy and during any repair/spot jobs if you don't know what your doing. If your a competent painter or your best friends with one, then your good to go and the midcoat of pearl will add very little to the weight but a fair bit to the price and time required to paint your plane.

     

    Jack M. can probably give you some advice on the subject.

  7. that sounds like good "year one thinking" but I'm at year 5 , sorry

    and at year five....WE FIX SHI* and move on.

    Steve, as of last summer, you hadn't even completed all of those layups or installed the MG plates in anticipation of using retracts, I know becuase I responded to the post you made inquiring about them, so please, none of this 5 year crap!! I haven't used any SHI* on my plane yet, haven't seen it in the plans, but when I do, I'll call you for assistance.

     

    there is flex in that bulk head:rolleyes:

    Not after you install all the required plys and close out the top there isn't! They will only "flex" if your gear leg doesn't have a machine fit and you try to compress the bulkheads onto the strut when you tighten the 1/2" studs, which is bad...... but at year 5, you should already know that!

     

     

    And that's twice in less than 12 hours you've made me agree with TMann............Waitress!!

  8. Hi

    I did as Steve said, and added the plies to the front it only added about 3/64"s to the thickness....

    Sorry Steve, I would have gone with answer #5, knowing that the 8 screws used for attaching MG-1 & 2 will most likely need to be longer now and that the MG-4's may not be long enough to completely bear on MG-1 due to the increased thickness of the bulkhead depending on Madman's layup thickness in the additional plys added in chapter 7 & 9.

     

    While that doesn't seem like a big deal to order different bolts and make longer MG-4's if needed, it does say something about the "make things up as you go along....." statement as there is (typically) something in the next chapter or later that will bite you, and flipping that bulkhead or having to rebuilt it may have been easier and might have saved some head scratching later.

     

    I think I just agreed with TMann too?? ...........I need a drink!

  9. The result was, I think, that unless you get rid of the propellor disk at the back of the plane, you may not see that high (Mach Tuck) Indicated Airspeed ever :)

    I think the results showed that you wouldn't reach the critical mach # in a dive if you attempted too for the sake of your comfort and not wanting to overspeed your engine :)

     

    If you got rid of the propellor and you were still in control, you still wouldn't want to descend greater than what you already did for your comfort, plus the speed needed to reach mach tuck would increase as your altitude decreased, but you can't just get rid of your propellor so.......

     

    I think Marc's original post was regarding folks attempting level flight at altitude with bigger badder engines etc. that could flirt with mach tuck with the throttle wide open, wouldn't know they reached the critical # until it was too late. So HAVING the propellor WOULD be what got you there.

     

    Congratulations on your flight, that's HIGH!!

  10. Hah! Who was it that brought that sissy foo foo spiced rum anyway?

    I had to get rid of it somehow and you didn't see me stick around to drink any of it did yah?????

    I have perfumes I'd drink before that stuff :P:scared: It's is fine if you are out to pick up a 14 yr old

    YIKES! you weren't at the "Worlds Best Pizza" joint down the street on Saturday night were you?.........nevermind!
  11. Andrew, I did the joggle and it (and the cover) turned out great. With that said, I would probably go with Wayne's idea if I had to do it again. The joggle, aluminum inserts, drilling and taping, the fairing in with micro etc. take a bit of time and leave very little room for error, without having to redo anything.

    Wayne's deal is pretty straight forward and if you screw up one of the flanges now or at later date, it's easy to fix.

  12. Not sure that's fair. I have no first hand knowledge, and have seen an email from Nat claim that it is so, but also understand Marc Z has an Aerocad strut and reports no problems, and John Slade has reported sagging on his Featherlite.

    Not sure THAT's fair either, You'll find discussions regarding the subject in the Cozy Builders archives and both have had issues.

     

    Rich, The Featherlite strut is not the same, it is reportedly made using a proprietary process (per Burt Rutan), weather or not that process differs from the AeroCanard strut I don't know, but definitely not the same people.

     

    There was no resolution to either issues AFAIK (spread, shimmy) other than a possible flaw in the design and/or builder error in the torsional layups etc.

  13. I am curious though, why did Rutan stop selling plans and such? I thought Long EZ plans were very popular...

    To add to the pessimism, "YOU" would be my first answer and your right, the Long was very popular if not the MOST popular plans built plane to date and was supported by RAF for more than twenty years, and Nats support of the Cozy line until 2004.

     

    Neither plane or plans were perfect but they were designed and tested as such and attemting the changes your talking about would have gotten you a very cold shoulder from either of the designers.

     

    Liability, lawsuits and the desire to move on to other things would be my guess. Some folks are asking you to name your creation something else for a good reason, you truely are experimenting! While you'll receive alot of "what if's" around here from some very knowledgable folks, you won't find anyone that is going to draw you a pretty pictures of how it all goes together, not for free at least.

     

    Nice story and good luck!

  14. My Buell uses a sportster engine, 95ish HP. I beat the crap out of it and never had a problem. Over 30k miles. They can be very reliable if you actually do maintanance.

    I've riden over 300K miles on various HD's and ALL of them have had me on the side of the road for various engine related problems, some minor, some major, all would have brought a plane out of the sky and all had been maintained incredibly well! A bad coil, crank sensor, some crappy fuel from podunk WY etc.

    True the old generation motors had issues, but the new engines are much better..

    And I have some ocean front property to sell you!

    And I wasn't thinking a Stock Harley motor, more like every aftermarket piece that is not Harley. Screaming Eagle makes a fairly decent motor from the cases up.

    Neither was I, Harley is Screamin' Eagle btw and to get that HP your talking about you have to run the engine at 3500-4000 rpm or more from a big bore, big dollar engine (well over 10k) that doesn't want to spend much time there = not so reliable!
  15. A Harley engine can be beefed to 90hp no problem, air cooled, don't weigh much, and parts are easily available.

    Ever seen this sticker "If Harley built and airplane, would you fly in it?"

     

    "Harley engine" and "no problem" should never be used in the same sentence, or even in the same book for that matter!

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