CFernandez

I couldn't have said it better myself.

I didn't get the Arby's reference

I was probably hungry and was thinking of getting something to eat.

 

I think you have what you need to know to proceed with putting the fuse together. Have fun!

EZ Jon, we're not in a race to get finished first...or are we?

Last night I LoVac'd my electrical conduit covers.

Looking good Jon.

 

How about someone else start their own thread in this section and fill it with progress every so often to keep the rest of us motivated...

Sorry too busy building an airplane.

IMH (layman's)O, Top notch.

Did you expect anything less????

 

I'm looking forward to canard parts soon.

Well this seems like good news maybe I can have my sexy black cozy!!!

Bright red with racing stripes sounds good to me.

 

If it works you would turn a lot of heads.

This doesn't surprise me... are you saying this is bad? or good? Or just as a reference?

I stated it incorrectly. The sides are not vertical by that much. The fuse does taper back to the FW from the seatback.

I was also looking at your firewall bulkhead -- nice and rounded with the sides at 90 degrees vertical -- NOT LIKE the plans AFAICT. I wonder how you came up with that given the "stock" AeroCanard FG firewall drawing?

 

It's stock FG.

I pity anyone attempting to build an AeroCanard FG from plans (without a kit). The bulkhead measurements are simply and needlessly incorrect. Very frustrating! Think twice about plans-building an AeroCanard FG over a Cozy Mark IV (equivalent to AeroCanard SB) -- so far I've wasted a LOT of time trying to get an extra 4 inches into my rear seat!

Here we are. What are you going to do? I'm thinking Arby's! I will say it's been more difficult than I imagined, not the building part, more the interpretation of information or lack there of.

A couple things now that I'm past it.

 

I had to cut the aft lg bulkhead down width wise about .7" to get it to fit with the fwd lg bulkhead and firewall.

 

Also the turtle back portion of the FW caused the fuse sides to angle out at the upper longeron. This required a small wedge (0" at the bottom of the upper fwd lg bulkhead to .2" at the top of the upper fwd lg bulkhead) of foam on both sides of the fwd lg bulkhead.

 

Knowing what I know now...:/... The aft lg bulkhead needed to be shortened further and the firewall (lower and upper portion) needed to be cut differently to allow the fuse sides to come in at the longeron approx. .2"-.4" each side. It's a minor detail that I hope won't bite me later.

 

 

Let me know when you get to the plywood in Chap.7. Positioning those pieces was a stumbling block for me.

OK. who are these OTHERS that build them? Nate web site dont tell me much.

Try this link to Nate's webpage. http://www.stealthturtle.com/cozy/neededparts.html

AirCraftSpruce is setting up for parts as well as the CozyGirrrls.com. There are others out there as well. I think Nate Wolfe at stealthturtle.com was keeping a list of who is making what.

 

Hope this helps.

Expanded Polystyrene starts out as a solid bead of polystyrene and small amount of pentane gas in the bead. The bead expands with the application of heat via steam.

 

Extruded Polystyrene starts out as a polystyrene crystal. The polystyrene is combined with a blowing agent and other additives. Under controlled conditions the hot liquid mixture is extruded and allowed to rise through a die. The end result is a "bun" or billet of foam. (Polyurethane is produced similarly.)

 

Hope this helps,

Assuming (on the other hand) that the widest bulkhead is correct, and the other is 1/2" too short, wouldn't it be possible to build up a structure where the bulkhead will eventually be taped to the fuselage?

 

If I understand what Crow is talking about his bulkhead is not perpendicular to the centerline. If that is the case he'll have to cut it out and realign it. (Crow correct me if I don't understand your problem. Post a picture.)

You're not that far along in the project to get too upset. Think of it as a good thing that you found it now.

 

It's going to take some time and work but figure out what you need to do to make it right. That means you will have to cut the bulkhead(s) out and realign them. Again it will be some work but really not that bad.

 

I would use a hand hack saw and take your time with it, cut only what you need to. After you get it cut out remove any excess glass to get back to where you need to be to install the bulkheads again.

I FINALLY managed to get my shop setup well enough to do some building...but I am building.

 

 

Good, go at it!

 

I'm trying to find more time for the project at this point... no TV, early to bed, more efficient lifestyle, ... anything that helps.

Try working on till 2:30 in the morning.

 

Glad to hear you're making progress. I shaped the fuselage today. It looks really good with the corners shaped. I'm look forward to installing the antennas next.

Now it is a Class 6 (poison), package class I (very dangerous - expensive to ship) material. What changed? I'm not sure, but this is something that should be considered.

-- Len

I think I said it in one of the threads recently. I use Aeropoxy because its "approved" and I don't pay the extra hazmat charges which are close to the cost of a gallon of epoxy. I don't have stock with Aeropoxy but maybe I should...

 

I just don't see the point in paying the hazmat charges if I can get an "approved" epoxy without them.

Try ez.org and look for LongEZ cad drawings.

 

Still, I'm looking forward!

Jon,

 

Glad to hear you're back at it! (The bottom is on the fuse, it looks really cool!)

 

Just build it like the plans say, it works out. (The only problem was the aft lg, and the plywood in Chap. 7. I hope to have it figured out for you when you get to that point.

I like the option to flox but would use milled fiberglass. You can put a lot of milled fiber in the epoxy and it will still flow easily it to the hole. You may want to use a toothpick to get any air out of the hole for a good fill.

 

My 2 cents...

OK, here's what I did. I drilled the #21 holes into the aluminum slugs.. 15 out of 16 came out real nice. One needs repair, only about 1/2 the diameter of the drilled hole is in the slug.

 

But here is ther real issue. I read the directions wrong, followed them too literally w/out paying attention, I proceded to opening the slugs AND the gear cover with a # 11 drill bit.

 

So, now, of course the tap does absolutely nothing and the S50 screws just drop in. Not good.

 

So, how to fix.

 

JD

Jon,

 

If I were to do it I would use milled glass fiber. I believe flox won't flow enough to fill the hole uniformly. With milled glass and epoxy you can put a lot of fiber into the epoxy and it will still flow. After it cures tap it.

I'm curious about the shipping, because the place I'm looking to buy from won't ship this material, and requires you to pick it up at their facility.

Ask them why they won't ship it. They probably aren't setup to ship small quantities (have boxes and labels, etc.) They probably just don't want to deal with the headache if the volume is small.

 

I'm using Aeropoxy for this very reason, I didn't want to pay the extra charges. My buddy using EZpoxy, I figure I get a free gallon of Aeropoxy for every one purchased.

 

So, did I just get lucky the first time, or has something changed?

I don't know how MGS resin and hardener is classified. If anyone was lucky it was ACS if it was shipped improperly.

This brings me back to having no clue about what all of this means...

 

-- Len

Unless you plan to ship this stuff you really don't need to worry about it. (If you do plan to ship HAZMAT (epoxy) make sure you get help with the regs and packaging. DOT doesn't like it when someone ships HAZMAT and it leaks on the way.)

 

The people who ship this material are the ones who need to know, unless you want a really dry, meaningless hobby. .

 

(I actually enjoyed reading the regs.) It's like a maze.

I don't see ORM-D or anything similar. Could this be shipped ORM-D?

-- Len

(If you want a lesson in reading the 49CFR let me know and I'll run through it with you.)

 

The HAZMAT Table in 49CFR has an exception that allows it to be shipped without placarding if shipped in inner containers .3 gallons or less in strong outer packaging. (If it does not have a subsidary classification of 6.1, PG II, Poison.)

 

Additionally, if it meets the definition of "Consumer Commodity" it may be reclassified as ORM-D and labeled as such if it meets the above requirements.

 

Depending on how you buy this material (quantity per container) it may/may not fall under ORM-D.

Carlos,

 

Do you know what other systems or components fall under ORM-D? I've seen the designation on boxes before, but have to admit ignorance on the subject. I'm curious as to what it takes to get fall under this classification for shipping.

 

 

I know EZ84 does not fall under ORM-D. My friend, Andy, asked how he could get rid of the HAZMAT charges, but it is a poison so no ORM-D on that one. If you can get the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) it will most likely have the Dept. of Transportation (DOT) shipping information on it. The shipping information will have everything you need to ship the product.

 

Depending on what the material is and how it is shipped determines if it can be classified as ORM-D. I would need to see the MSDS to tell you if a material falls under ORM-D.

 

(The regs are in 49CFR if you like that kind of literature.)

Not sure what ORM-D is..I need to do some homework.

 

ORM-D stands for Other Regulated Material-D. It allows for shipping HAZMAT under less restrictive exceptions. (I ran a HAZMAT packaging test lab for 5 years if you were wondering why one would know this stuff.)

Any idea what type of epoxy can be shipped with no additional HAZMAT fee?

 

You may want to contact PTM&W and ask about their Aeropoxy products because their epoxy falls under the ORM-D exception. There are other details in the exceptions like quantity and mode of transport but I'm sure they can tell you what you need to know about getting it shipped to you. Their number is 800-421-1518. I use the 2032 Resin with the 3665 Hardener.

Hope this helps.

I'm actually still stumped. If the plywood goes in like the drawing shows I won't be able to put in the reinforcement glass in Chap. 9. Arrrggghhh...

 

I'll get it worked out but this one has me puzzled.