MoneySink

these are all good ideas but a lot more trouble then you need to go to. fill the engine with shell preservative oil and seal in a plastic bag. and forget it. filled with oil there is no room for oxygen. the little O2 in the bag will react with the oil and not be able to react with the metals. no O2. no corrosion its that simple. this is the way that engine rebuilders and lycoming due it. it does not matter what the humidity is outside the bag if there is none inside the bag.

Thanks Lynn. This is what I'll do.

If you can keep it dry, internal surfaces oiled and in a dark place, it should be fine. Keep it at a constant temperature if possible to minimize condensation. I kept an engine in a desert hangar for two years with dehydrator spark plugs and a desiccant bag on the breather with no corrosion. The desiccant must be refreshed regularly. Rubber parts will of course age.

 

I am also looking for an O-360. Is this a unique deal or can you share info on it?

It's sort of free that I don't have to dish out cash for it but I have to burn some midnight oil doing some programming for guy that just happen to have one laying around for a project he was going to do. It's been laying around in his warehouse for at least 6 mos now.

Hi Folks,

I'm still pretty far (years) on my build (on other "honey do this" projects right now) but I maybe able to get a new IO-360 lycoming engine at a substantial discount (almost free).

Can I store it say for 4 years without firing it? Other than physical damage, what kind of bad things could happen to it?

TIA,

Robert

I have a some questions regarding Lycoming models used in pusher type aircraft in general:

Does Cozy (or pusher type aircraft) generally require left turning engines? What is most commonly used?

In the IO-360s, Lycoming offers vertical or horizontal induction; which one is best suited for Cozys? Would the horizontal induction produce more tapered bottom cowling compared to vertical induction that sticks down?

TIA,

Robert

Contact the Canard Finder David Orr (aka "Beagle") at canardfinder@att.net. His web site is http://www.canardfinder.com

He has the master list of canards available for sale and he could probably arrange a ride for you also.

I used Lexan for my strake windows. Over the years, theyve become scratched and dirty. I find that I can't buff out the scratches and now wish I had used regular plexiglass.

 

Any thoughts on this?

 

Waiter

Hi Waiter,

I used this product for taking scratches out of my acrylic fish tank:

(Rainbow Lifegard Acrylic Scratch Removal Kit 72000)

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_viewitem.aspx?idproduct=RB1551&child=RB1551&utm_source=mdcsegooglebase2&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=mdcsegooglebase2&utm_content=RB1551

You should be able to restore your strake windows close to its original condition.

I'm planning to add this mod to my build and I'm interested to know if there are any flying Cozy IVs' out there with this mod and share their flight experience with them.

TIA.

Hello,

I know that Wicks has a list of materials by chapter for the Long EZ but their info is not very descriptive. Is there a similar list for A&S or is Wicks the main source for most of the materials for Long EZ?

I know I can purchase most foams and glass from A&S and H/W from CG Products but not sure about the rest of the parts.

Thanks in advance.

Woo Hoo

Its just a passing milestone but our web site rolled over the 50K mark today.

Thanks to all our visitors.

I think I'll have some chocolate ice cream for desert tonight

...Chrissi & Randi

Congratulations!!! Do you have a breakdown on which page got the most hits? I'm thinking it's probably your lovac writeup or the strakes...

I did the mist thing last night. Didn't work! So, I'm just gonna return it and order from Wicks since all of Spruce's stock came in wet.

Thanks everyone for your responses.

How badly is it warped .. and how big is the biggest piece you have to cut from it, could you really see it over that piece?

I would say looking at it diagonally, it's twisted about an inch end to end.

Hi folks,

I purchased my birch 2'x4' plywood from Spruce today and it came a little warped. They said it came in wet and they were all pretty much like that.

I was thinking of misting some water on it and weight it down to straighten it out. Or, return it to spruce and get it from wicks or should I even worry about it.

TIA

Does anyone know if the AeroCanard main gear strut is identical to the Cozy IV strut?

TIA

Drew,

That's awesome! You're a regular Wood Whisperer! (or more like Foam Whisperer)

I also got a life insurance and had to disclose that I was a pilot, it's pretty steep in terms of costs.

I got additional from AOPA then I read the terms and it didn't cover you if you died while piloting or in a non-certificated aircraft from the USA. I'm not sure if those were the exact wordings but it's pretty close. I'll dig it up and post it here later. Since FAA issues the airworthiness certificate, I'm wondering if were covered flying experimentals.

I'm looking for the "Ronneburg" and "Cobb" long nose plans. Please e-mail me privately if you have a copy for sale.

Not having worked with carbon fiber at all, do you use different epoxy for laying out carbon fibers as oppose to laying up fiberglass cloths?

That would really drive me up the walls

It maybe ok if he can tolerate all the why's and the what. I may go through a few a&p's before I get the engine done. That's what happened when I wanted to learn how to mig weld. I went through a dozen welding shops offering them to pay their hourly rate to give me some experience but they used the liability insurance as an excuse. I finally found one and didn't care about the insurance bit. He was more than eager to teach than anything.

Lynn,

Thanks for your insight. If I decide to go this route I would be doing it for the experience and knowledge from having done it.

I would definitely enlist the help of an A&P so that it's done right. The only problem is finding one that would tolerate my perfectionist attitude .

There's an article on the Feb issue of EAA Sport Aviation titled "An Engine Overhaul Part I" that starts on page 90. This article sparked my interest quite a bit in working with motors and save quite a bit of money at the same time.

My only experience in overhauling an engine is rebuilding my VW Baja bug when I was in high school.

I know I could follow an overhauling manual but how can I make sure that it's done right and that it will be as good as if it came from the factory (or close to it)? Has anyone done it?

When I first spoke with Uli, he said the plans were also suitable for the Cozy IV. The CG's Canopy is FHC, I wonder if they used Uli's plan.

I think it took about a week for my copy to arrive. It was sent first class mail.

Got permission from Uli to post his new e-mail address:

Uli Wolter

Doh!!! too bad the plans is not in SolidWorks or something, it would be a cinch to move all this stuff. Maybe the OpenEz group will get this done.

Thanks for the insight Waiter.

I was able to contact him through the phone number listed through this link:

http://members.hp-interex.ch/~k_schumacher/CozyMkIV/Material.htm

He gave me a new e-mail address. Let me see if I can get his permission to post it here.