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A Bruce Hughes

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About A Bruce Hughes

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  • Real Name (Public)
    Arleigh B Hughes
  • Location (Public)
    Yelm, WA and/or Pukalani, HI

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  • Plane

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  1. Can you send a better picture? Due to the coronavirus, I have little to do except read what has been discussed.
  2. Upali, you REALLY have to get an expert to inspect the airplane. There are ways to creaat problems when building. I am not at home so cannot send any solid information on the closest to WV. At the very least, contact Marc Zeitlin. He can do it for a price. He looked at my Longeze when I thouogh I was about ready to call it finished and found 83 problems. Some of those 83 were just not having the FAA required paperwork on board and some were just areas that needed sanding and painting. But a few were actually problems. That Cozy you are considering may have 183 problems. DON'T just assume that it is OK if it looks nice. Paint can hide a lot of mistakes. BTW IF you are considering a Cozy III or a Cozy IV BE DAMN SURE THAT YOU UNDERSTAND WHAT THE CG IS AND WHAT CG MEANS. IF you weigh 200 pounds and put a 200 pound buddy in the front or back seat, the CG will be WAY OFF one way or the other. THAT will KILL both of you. In Longezes and Variezes, the CG can be set fairly well IF you have "Automobile Racer" scales and KNOW how to use them. I did my CG checking INSIDE a hangar with the door closed and 2 buddies helping. AND I rechecked it several times over a five year period of building. If you are a light man and fly it solo,you probably will have a very big job getting the CG right on a Cozy III. Getting a Longeze CG right is much easier. You MUST understand what CG means.
  3. IF I were 30 years younger, I would check on the Varieze in Odessa TX; that price is amazing. It certainly is a very dry climate; in 1956, my wife hung our washed clothes out a few miles west of Odessa. Bruce Hughes
  4. I definitely am not a prospective buyer but I wonder: Which E.I. ? Which alternator ? Which ADS-B ? Which engine? Total empty weight ? And most important : What is the FAA identifer ? Or is it Canadian ? Stolen in Mexico ? Imported ? Come On guy You have fee space to cover those.
  5. Jules I am surprised that few experts answered your email. Correct elevator and aileron shape and balancing is essential for safety. The ailerons are a hard part of building. You need to study the directions for hot-wiring, get a friend to help, make accurate wood forms to guide the hot wire, get a buddy or 2 to help, and try to make them. Plan to make more than 2 just to get some practice. I made several and lost count. The steel weight on the forward side of the aileron in Burt's plans is just too light; a lot of people went to a slightly larger diameter steel rod or other metal instead of steel. Ultimately the ailerons MUST balance correctly according to the RAF plans, AFTER the painting. Balancing incorrectly will create a dangerous aircraft. I followed the directions in painting, including cleaning with the specified solvent; the directions are for car painting but the ailerons are NOT metal so the solvent will go through pinholes, dissolving the styrofoam. Then you have to start over with more styrofoam, aluminum tube and rivets. I made pair of ailerons, then found that the aluminum tubing was slightly in the wrong place so I started over. Expect to spend a couple of months and use up some material. Be sure that the airflow will reach the forward surface of the ailerons on the lower side of the ailerons correctly as that has a strong aerodynamic effect. The clearance from aileron to the wing MUST be correct. Ailerons and elevators done incorrectly can kill you. Bruce
  6. I once met a pilot/owner/builder who bought a canard and was building another. I should have done the same thing but was just focused on finishing someone's project. That might have saved my marriage, too. If you are ready to build a Cozy from plans, you might buy this Varieze and fly it for years while you work on the Cozy. That is a great way to go if you have enough money. Bruce
  7. Well, I have to apologize (again). I had not heard of Richard Schubert. He certainly gave a good email discussion on drag. I have had to apologize a few times before due to my dumb comments. So, anyway, we have TWO very knowledgeable Schuberts.
  8. David, TERRY Schubert's name is Terry Schubert. His publication of 136 issues of the CSA newsletter did more to help us than any one person besides B. Rutan. He had to manage to write, print, and mail close to 1000 copies 4 times a year at an incredibly low price. So let's get the name right.
  9. David: Marc and several others are expert; I am not. I have a NACA duct which is close to identical to those that I have seen on a lot of other Longezes. That means that it odes NOT have such a curved shape as your picture. I have 45 hours on it and I have NEVER had a temperature problem, either for the oil or the cylinders. I have not even smoothed out the airflow inside the engine space so there is a lot of turbulence on both sides; I just have not had the time to get that last bit of smoothing done. I do need to balance the temps a bit #4 is the hot one and most people have that problem, I think. #3 is next, #2 is cool and #1 is the coolest. The oil cooler does restrict the air flow a little close to #3 cylinder. It sits on the lower cowl and is bolted to it. It does hang from a small aluminum bracket floxed to the back of the main spar. Air flows in the NACA duct, makes a right and climbing turn, goes through the cooler and exits on the underside of the lower cowl. I think most builders do it that way. You will not succeed trying to put a ball in front of the NACA duct. I have heard of people trying to use the armpit or downdraft for many years. Most of them had a lot of trouble, I think. My neighbor DID have such a FLIR ball but he was using the original RAF "P-51" type scoop (he flew for the army in an experimental project that almost nobody has heard about. Bruce
  10. David I am the LAST person that should give suggestions on glass work. I am throwing my lower cowl away. Anyway way can you put on some better pictures, NOT just one and NOT taken at an angle, please.
  11. You said " existing breakers for the radio, elt, Can you confirm that? You cannot legally (by the FAA) run an ELT except as it was EXACTLY like the original design. My ELT has 8 batteries. Those must be from the same manufacturer and the same model of battery. Was your ELT designed to work on your battery by a breaker ?
  12. I think you will find that the wires running from the panel to your headset will be a big PIA. I suggest that you get a catalog from B & C and look through it. I have a starter solenoid from them as well as fuses that light up if they are "blown". Also a master solenoid from them. When I first tried to start the engine, the voltage dropped too low to start it and that was with all 4 cylinders primed; I switched to B & C solenoids and took the master out of the path to the starter (Yes, I have a mechanical way to cut off the current if the starter solenoid hangs). Now the engine starts very quickly even when very cold. I have almost everything that they sell. I consider their equipment very superior to what you can get at Aircraft Spruce or Wicks. Bruce Hughes
  13. It is more convenient IMHO to put the headphone and mic jacks behind your left (or right) shoulder so the wires are not always in the way. Bruce Hughes
  14. O ! You said "pre-buy". I should have said nothing. Contact Marc Z for an inspection; he can fly down there. It will cost but you need to be sure it is not a dog or dangerous. I was shocked on what he found on my Longeze. Anyway, the CSA is a good group and the directory is worth the $30 and they have 4 newsletters in color.
  15. Look in your directory from the CSA. Are you not a member? JOIN ! Best $30 you will ever spend.

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