Jump to content

bmckinney10

Members
  • Content Count

    27
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

bmckinney10 last won the day on December 16 2019

bmckinney10 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About bmckinney10

  • Rank
    Member

Personal Information

  • Real Name (Public)
    Brian
  • Location (Public)
    Lakeville, MN

Project/Build Information

  • Plane
    VariEze

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Was working on it... Attached. Wing Attach.pdf
  2. I have the TERF CD's and they have the full assembly manuals for the VV, VEZ, LEZ, and section 1 for the Solitaire. They have the Owners manuals for all these plus the Defiant. There are no plan templates for bulkheads or surface profiles. They also include the Moldless Composite Aircraft Construction manual, various pictures, and all the CP's. My VEZ came with a full set of plans and templates from the original builder, but I bought the CD's anyway as they are much easier to access and then just print the page of interest as needed.
  3. Work on N40LC continues: I found a defective wire in one of the original mag harnesses, and decided to replace both and all the plugs. Engine now starts quick and is very smooth. I have the B&C 12 amp PM alternator. I was not getting the DC power from the regulator. The alternator is putting out AC power, varying with the engine RPM. The regulator is dead. It is a potted metal box with 4 wires. 2 for the AC input and 2 for the DC output. It appears to be a simple full-wave rectifier, but one of the legs must be out. There was no external filter capacitor or O/V circuit as B&C provides now. I will order these replacements from B&C. I found/installed a replacement canopy keylock. The original was missing the key and a replacement lock ($4) was cheaper than getting a locksmith to redo the tumbler to make new keys. The original builder had a unique canopy locking mechanism that doesn't require a small door in the fuselage. I will post a picture soon. I am installing new canopy-latched & throttle position switches. The landing gear position switch is still in good condition. I pulled all the mounting parts and cleaned/painted them. I also have a new 1/2" flashing LED warning indicator for the panel. I am leaning towards not replacing the existing push-pull nose gear mechanism. It is simple and has over 560+ hours of error-free operation. As long as I keep my weight in check and my thighs from growing, it shouldn't be an issue for comfort. I did get an oil filter adapter kit for the O-200, but have not installed yet. I changed the oil once, maintaining just the original oil screen setup. It is a pain to remove the sensor, screen, etc. I am leaning towards installing it. I need to replace the tachometer. I can't find a part or model number that matches, but it appears to be a Westach of some type. It was driven directly off of a mag lead. Hoping to find a decent used replacement.
  4. I am having no issues with the Skytec starter, nor the starter contractor setup. The engine kicks over with the first or second blade. I've had a Skytec on my Cherokee for 10 years with no issues. ELT was a mis-type, I meant ADSB. I was researching ELT's earlier and that was on my mind. As far as headset jacks, I guess we will see. I sat in it for several hours today while installing the radio and tried it out with my headphones on. I am not concerned at this point, I didn't notice anything that would cause me to dislike it. Plus, the wires only had to be 16" long, so easy install.
  5. I retained the existing electrical circuit similar to what was specified in the LEZ manuals. It utilizes a 20 amp toggle switch instead of a master relay. I have 5 existing breakers for the radio, elt, instruments, trim servos, etc. that were already in place. There was no room for another breaker in the original location for the starter, so I put it in the new panel I made. The large cable starts at the battery in the nose, runs to the push-pull 40A breaker, then to a start solenoid located behind the panel, then runs to the starter in the back. The small push button only activates the starter contactor, just as a normal start circuit would as you described. If I have a starter stick, I can just pull the breaker which is only is for the new starter. As for the headphone/mic jacks, I considered the behind-the-shoulder setup, but preferred to have them in the front. The are near the center of the panel, so not in the way of the left & right hand controls.
  6. Some updates on N40LC... Completed Work - finished up the starter installation - moved the breather tube to the other end of the engine - pulled new mag wires when pulling the new starter cables - cleaned up the wiring in the engine compartment - removed the GNC-250XL - installed a GTR-200B - CNC/3D print new panel for new mag switches, starter breaker and start button, pilot headphone/mic jacks, USB charging ports (see pic below) - rewired everything behind the panel - changed oil/cleaned screen - new air filter - new quick connect on trim servo - removed unused/old wiring Upcoming - new plugs & new mag harnesses - co-pilot headphone/mic. jack panel & mount - investigate alternator & regulator - new canopy lock - rewire canopy/throttle/gear safety switch circuits - 3D print bezel for GTR-200B Further Out - fix aforementioned skin crack/delamination below canard - "EXPERIMENTAL" & N-number decal install - new canopy seal - service wheels/brakes - ELT - ADS-B out
  7. So we have successfully hand-propped the VE a few times. Fairly easy as we figured out the proper process. But, this ended up being much easier. VariEze Starter.mp4
  8. What seat harness have most used for the Varieze? Mine still has the 4-point EON E8000 which was suggested in a CP to be replaced due to inadvertent opening with the latch system.
  9. Everything around F22 is good and solid. It is just the outside layer/filler. It would bug me if I left it, so it'll be repairing it.
  10. Self-inflicted fuselage damage... We were working through the re-wiring job today and noticed that we have a crack on the left side just under the canard area. I believe this was due to our ratchet strap being tightened a bit too much during shipping and causing an inward flex on the thinner part. The inside shows no cracks, but the outside has the crack and flex that should not be there. Noticed that that the right side seems a bit thicker in this same area. We will have to strip off the paint a see what is behind it. It sounds from tapping to be roughly a 6" x 6" area heading down and aft that was affected.
  11. Very nice Curt! He didn't mention anything negative in regards to the handling with the cuffs. He put almost 600 hours on it in this configuration. He lived on a 2500' airpark strip and said he regularly flew himself and a neighbor (near/at) max gross. I am planning to visit the RAFE guys in TN at some point to get canard training time prior to flying my VE. I will look into the X-Plane sims. Thanks!
  12. Great video, never saw this before. It shows the nose-gear pushrod system that I currently have...
  13. Here's the clip from the manual for the original nose gear control. Simple system, but the pushrod is a bit uncomfortable against your right leg when retracted. The graphic shows the pushrod in the extended position, but shows the gear retracted. In reality, when the gear is retracted, it is sticking out about 12" into the seating area (see picture above).
  14. Me Rough weight was 690. Not many accessories.. Not planning to switch. Builder had no concerns during his flight time and kept the cuffs.
  15. The emblems popped right off with a few seconds of heat gun.

The Canard Zone

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information