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VEZ75

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  • Real Name (Public)
    Mark Leseberg
  • Location (Public)
    Utah

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  • Plane Type
    VariEze

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  1. Im pretty sure Beryl Sanders did these with Chis Woodard and Freeflight Composites. May have templates. They work pretty OK.
  2. I have this issue as well. Prop is Hertzler 62X68, Cont O-200. I am told from the previous owner that at the sustained under-speed condition through deceleration 200 mph - 120 mph, it is a cowling vibration/resination. I am waiting to fix cameras to try and quantify this. This also happens on another airplane that I fly, the Piaggio Avanti, but at a much different frequency.
  3. Marc, I am in the process of taking go pro footage and trying to understand this better. I will have a better report soon. Appreciate those questions, they made me think more in depth about what it is that I am feeling. Mark
  4. As the aircraft decelerates from max structural cruising speed in a sustained engine under-speed condition from 210 MPH IAS through 140 MPH IAS, a low frequency vibration is felt in the seat of my pants much the same as the two transient RPM Ranges in the Piaggio. I can tell that it is coming, it gets more pronounced, then subsided in a linear fashion. This only takes place during deceleration at 2000 rpm +-100 rpm. It feels strictly engine/spinny thingy oriented. No Spinner is installed. It's not that the airplane cannot be operated there, but rather feel obliged to pass through those particular zones expeditiously. Much the same as rotor rpm transient zones for helicopters, the ones that start the funky chicken dance. Chinooks have this well documented on the ground. Its not really a huge deal, I just am curious if this is a mannerism that is unique to my airplane or something experienced in a fleet. I could speculate but my O-200 experience is almost 10 full hours now, so I'm not going to. I emailed Gary to start a 63 X 69. I have a 62 X 68 on an 8 in Extension.
  5. O yes.....much clearer. I flew today and didn't die as well, so thats awesome. I wanted to ask you if its normal for an O-200 to have RPM ranges that are transient zones not to be run continuously, perhaps dependent on airspeed? I can find no mention of this but around 2000 rpm, the airplane feels not happy as it decelerates from 210 to 140ish. This little airplane continues to surprise me.
  6. Marc, Thanks for taking the time to clear it up. It makes better sense now. Using the -13 on my particular airplane gives me 2 threads that I can see. Also, per the document that I attached, should I be adding 15 or so in/lbs for the rotational drag of the stop nut? Really appreciate you taking the time to clear this up, it gives me better peace of mind. Mark
  7. Marc, In your first response to me, you indicated that 50-70 in/lbs with thicker tension AN365-428A nuts was proper (This is what I am using now). A little later in the post, it was advised that I tighten with a smaller wrench in small increments by feel which is why I tightened to 40 in/lbs and gave it a little extra (only 1/5 turn.....which happened to be around 47 in/lbs total. I bought a new Torque wrench last night after my post and practiced to get exactly 5 ft/lbs (60in/lbs) on a non-project sample. This was specified in the previous post. The bolt are now 60 in/lbs +- 4%. Now why 100 in/lbs? I believe the specification to the letter at 50-70 in/lbs. This is the table that I found....What am I missing with the 8 ft/lbs number? I started at near 50-70 and now its 100 in/lbs. This is what I was trying to avoid......improper info on my part during application. SO......I should be using the Advisory Circular then? Thanks for helping me to understand. I know that this is trivial and we are talking about small numbers, but I like to at least have the most accurate technique and procedure. I hope this makes sense as to why I am confused. I did read a previous thread that indicated 10 fl/lbs was way too much. Bordering on crushing the structure. AN Bolt Torque.pdf
  8. Marc, Appreciate that. I have spoken with Chris and we are working that out. I have replaced the Canard Bolts with new AN4-13A and new Lock Nuts Part AN365-428A. The bolts that I removed had a lot of the plating worn over time, and the Lock Nuts looked a lot thinner than what I have replaced them with (Maybe 1-2mm). I purchased a 5-40 in lb Husky torque 1/4 in drive yesterday and tightened to spec then added another 1/5 turn. I am fairly nervous about all of this to be honest as there is no nut plate. I have used 6 nuts up trying to get it to what I think is just right. I know that its just paranoia but do these parts and my method sound acceptable? I kinda don't want to mess this up as the accident report from a previous aircraft has sufficiently scared me. O the unknowns of a new airplane. Thanks, Mark
  9. You are citing pages for these requests that I am asking. Where do I find a set of plans if I do not possess them? Thanks, Mark
  10. Kent and Marc, Thanks very much for the reply. I have new Canard attach Bolts and new certified elastic stop nuts (the big kind) as you all instructed. Marc, did we meet? I flew my Extra to the Kanab Fly In a few years ago with my son. I fly a Piaggio for work and am using the VEZ for commuting now. I purchased Chris Woodard's Varieze originally built by Mr. Sanders. I am enjoying the airplane thus far. There is a lot to learn. I was also thinking of a couple of servos for the aircraft in the next few weeks. Do you all have any experience with the MGL Servos (not trio) and mounting adaptations? Also do you know the dash number effective area for the 3/16 Clevis Pin? 29/32? For the proper fit... Thanks, Mark
  11. Hello All, I am a new Varieze owner and can find no mention specifically of proper torque settings specifically for the Canard Bolts. This particular aircraft does not have nut plates but rather nylon lock nuts with large area washers. I am assuming that the 30-70 in/lbs is standard with the only mention in my literature being 3ft/lbs (36 in/lbs) for 1/4in bolts? I am also desirous of learning about the best quick disconnect keeper for the elevator pushrod retainment. Is the Standard AN3 Bolt and a lock nut the best option? Thanks for any advice in advance. M
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