Cozy846

You might have better luck going to one of the Canard Fly ins. Contact Beagle aka David Orr david @ canardfinder net reset and replace the period ​This fine Gentalman is of great help and he is up to speed on all that is happening in Canard events and projects. ​Best regards

How is this project going Jon Matcho? Any thing you need?

Andrew & Kent Thanks Guys, all this information has explained a great deal. I wasn't working in an Engine shop and we worked with what we had. I am sure there are certain engine types that are the best selections in these class of engines. Maybe a thread else where. Best regards.

"The Cozy MKIV plans have us install the O-360... the IO-360 will give you an additional 20HP over the O-360 (very nice) but it is quite a bit heavier and some plans parts (engine cowls and baffles) won't fit. I would go with the plans O-360 and do the very simple upgrade to FI if you want." According to Lycoming O-360 C4P weight is 275 to the heavier O-360 G1A6 weight at 303 pounds. For 180 hp depends on your power plant you choose. IO-360 L2A weight is 278 to the heavier IO-360 J1AD weight at 323 pounds Dry So for the weight I trade up. And we form our cowling around the power plant. . As far as the Heat issues I have read where some have had hot cylinder issues. That could be from a number of issues. One is dealing with very old tech here and no one will stick there neck out very far with the punitive legal fees Aviation companies face with product liability insurance. Pay 10 times what it is worth for 1/2 the life span. But not my problem I quit working on these Jurassic era designs well over 20 years ago. https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/O-HO-IO-HIO-AIO%20%26%20TIO-360%20Oper%20Manual%2060297-12.pdf

There was a guy selling Bogus plans on EBAY. I forgot what caught my attention but He used the same picture to sell them and Hey one set ok but 3 or more with the same pic and claim. If there's a wood panel in the image near the floor.. Walk. I could not get proof of genuine plans from him. Buyer Beware. No Number,,, Not interested. They use a white label and a real number. Every set look a like. The number can be verified through Aircraft Spruce. These are Good People and the Owners to this design. . You cannot beat Aircraft Spruce on this. Counterfeit might get you so far but why not spend the time to get it right. . My plans are registered. !00% REAL. There is a process to transfer owner ship form owner to buyer. Call em first.

Last I heard this Guy offers a few unique options As in Baggage Pods. www long - ez com Dale Martin Owl Eagle Aerial Composites 2815 Grandview Drive Clarkson Heights, WA 99403 Phone: (208) 292- FIVE EIGHT NINE SEVEN I asked and asked and asked around and no one would offer info on these. So here it is for all to find.

TheRethink. Get measurements. I've seen the Cozy Mk IV hauled on a low deck flat bed on an angle. You will need a very low deck trailer. Know your Height when loaded. Check every overpass and the one you fail to read may make you CRY. This to allow it to fit with in width and height limits on the road ways. My dad used foam and straps to secure the Aircraft He hauled. Twist the straps over so they are not flat and allow them to vibrate. When you go down the road and hear them you'll figure this out. Most Flat bed Drivers twist there straps and the Rookies can be spotted when they fail to twist them. Your load will be in the wind so you need to think how this will effect your new AC. Nothing can rub and wear so you need to recheck your load 10 miles after you get going then 50 miles and every time you stop get out and check every thing. Invest in good straps. I mean ratchet straps. Ropes are ok if you haul stuff every day and can use a good slip knot. Support every edge with piece of carpet, rag or something to help. I've wrapped tape on the rope to prevent damage. Use good but useful carpet end cuts and these can be screwed to the deck and used to brace when applied right. You might be able to use an old mattress to protect your wing. Look around and call Mattress Stores if you can barrow there used junk. . You may need to build a brace to keep wind damage from attacking the rudders. So take your Black N Decker tools and supplies to make it work. Bring tape. light bubs and hand tools 2x4's at the local hardware store too. Wire connection to the trailer always fail with the ground. A wire brush and a 177-22 caliber bore brush helps to keep the fuzz happy. Avoid Rest Stops. Too many bad stories. How to load the Fuselage and hold it at an angle... I have yet had to do this to a Canard. The other AC were salvage and we did it by shear Man power and Come a Longs.. Check a few Builders logs and check with them on there trip from Garage to Hanger. Don't go alone and Never Ever do Business with Cash. EVER. Not past a few hundred, Trust what you can verify. Hope you know what your buying. Buyer Beware. On the O-320,,,,,, I would look at the IO-360 series Lycoming's if I was going to use this type Engine, Also I've read about the heat and cooling issues builders fight with these Air cooled engines. Some one has to have perfected this by now. Down draft / Up draft / Split draft mix who knows. Air cooled is not my option so your on your own. Research this so you might get it right for your AC. I'd rethink the baffling design. Every one starts with the Tractor design from the Conventional use of these power plants..... Maybe the baffling needs to be rethought because the Air flow is not flowing into the nose but exiting there...... Directional baffling to individualize the cooling to each Jug? Thus one could install butterfly valves to limit or open cooling air flow? Jug jackets and Air flow Manifold?. Don't attack this. It was a 2 minute thought. So the punch line wasn't written. Good Luck.

Get measurements. I've seen the Cozy Mk IV hauled on a low deck flat bed on an angle. You will need a very low deck trailer. Know your Height when loaded. Check every overpass and the one you fail to read may make you CRY. This to allow it to fit with in width and height limits on the road ways. My dad used foam and straps to secure the Aircraft He hauled. Twist the straps over so they are not flat and allow them to vibrate. When you go down the road and hear them you'll figure this out. Most Flat bed Drivers twist there straps and the Rookies can be spotted when they fail to twist them. You load will be in the wind so you need to think how this will effect your new AC. Nothing can rub and wear so you need to recheck your load 10 miles after you get going then 50 miles and every time you stop get out and check every thing. Invest in good straps. I mean ratchet straps. Ropes are ok if you haul stuff every day and can use a good slip knot. Support every edge with piece of carpet, rag or something to help. I've wrapped tape on the rope to prevent damage. Use good but useful carpet end cuts and these can be screwed to the deck and used to brace when applied right. You might be able to use an old mattress to protect your wing. Look around and call Mattress Stores if you can barrow there used junk. . You may need to build a brace to keep wind damage from attacking the rudders. So take your Black N Decker tools and supplies to make it work. Bring tape. light bubs and hand tools 2x4's at the local hardware store too. Wire connection to the trailer always fail with the ground. A wire brush and a 177-22 caliber bore brush helps to keep the fuzz happy. Avoid Rest Stops. Too many bad stories. How to load the Fuselage and hold it at an angle... I have yet had to do this to a Canard. The other AC were salvage and we did it by shear Man power and Come a Longs.. Check a few Builders logs and check with them on there trip from Garage to Hanger. Don't go alone and Never Ever do Business with Cash. EVER. Not past a few hundred, Trust what you can verify. Hope you know what your buying. Buyer Beware.

Way cool, Kent! Did you buy plans for the prop duplicator or buy a kit? I need to do this asap. I found another site that attached a belt sander to finish the surface better. At least on the video it looked good. I remember being told to first try the patterns on good cheap wood. Then make a real prop. I am having a hard time with the way they put the 3 bladed props together. 3 separate blades glued together and cover in composites. What do I know. In my mind 3 blades should be laminated over hub joint with 6 -9 layers. That way each blade has a bond into the hub not just the 2 bolt hole 1/3 section. Having a 2 blade ready to drop-ship was a good idea I read. Sounds like a great idea in case one needed it and had the time. Updates request.

They look the same but format is different. One will allow calculations at elevations and selection of conditions. Unless I missed it. Would not be the first time. Great sites to keep on hand!

Correction My 3.5 and 3.7 engine information was intermixed. Direct injection is the 3.5 My Bad. The new cylinder heads use an intake port design that is much higher and more direct, allowing the 29-lb/hr sequential fuel injectors to shoot fuel directly at the back of the intake valves when they are closed, or under high-load operating conditions, spray fuel into the chamber when the valves are open, to reduce knock. See more at: http://v6mustangperformance.com/news/ford-mustang-3-7l-v6-engine-explained/#sthash.hPxpJUtN.dpuf

https://www.windyty.com May the wind be at your back. If duplicate then delete.

I lost the Cozy with a Small Block Ford in it. Many off the shelf parts and there is no load on the engine. Operating well under it's abilities. Propellers vary in diameter so selection there is another post. I am looking into making my own wood props. Canards I am told are hard on them with FOD. If your abilities are limited, this is not the way to go. http://www.avweb.com/avwebflash/news/NTSB-AOPA-Disagree-With-FAA-Cylinder-AD-223608-1.htmlJust found Serious AD on AC Cylinders

Your not the alone Kent but any one into Your choice will remain on your team. How many Lycoming's-Continentals have you owned operated and rebuilt? There costly and a kin to owning a Harley to [Japanese] bikes. I'll have to wait a few days before I can go ride. Wet Concrete and all. I do know these engine. My Dad took over an Airport FBO when I was 6 years old. I watched him build aircraft until I helped him. From 1968 on I have been very aware of the goings on in G.A. I had to work on them. We put our money into Phillips XC multi viscosity oil and lowered the wear in them quite a bit. But no matter what. You'll end up pulling a jug off or two if you own one over time. I just cannot justify paying the Lawyers fees in the purchase price. Product liability insurance has done more to kill G.A. than stupidity, arrogance and flying off into weather. I have paid lawyers too much already and I am not the only one that avoids them. I knew a couple guys in the Aircraft Engine repair business. "Any thing can fail for a great deal of reasons." paraphrased. Last count I built 14 engines and built 12 aircraft. I find it strange that means nothing to some. I flew them and none of my work has ever failed. The guy that wants an auto conversion is not limited to as every one else has done thinking. Some have made mistakes. This idea that it is a bad idea, adds time to the build because it has not been done yet, Fine. For those guys, why are they spending hard time building an aircraft that has tough resale value any way? They do it because they can. It was what made sense. He won't worry about quick decent to use the bathroom! With this engine he can come down a lot faster. I do not see your numbers but I detect a bias. I have owned Lycoming. I have owned Continental. I have done the maintenance and looking into the filters helps. Key word helps. The engines I have seen fail I did not ever touch and what was or not done to them is water long gone. Any thing can fail so fly what you believe in. My point about the robust destructive testing was to point out the state of art that is now available at a much lower price than you have lead to. Your right the 540 is not pushed at all, it makes lots of power with a large displacement designed to cool at defined parameters. Avoid shock cooling and they will be fine. I paid $1000.00 for my engine with all accessories so I am way ahead. I also have my own shop and I have built a few things so fabrication is for others an issue. The donor was brand new and it landed in my lap. Lucky me but I have found 5 more casually lurking around to help others so entry is not high for every one. If one did buy a new Ford F150 he could get it for 22 to 27,000.00 Cash. Because if you parted it out and sold off the rest of the truck you could make back most of the money. Or buy a T-boned new engine as I have and reinstall it for under 2000.00. Sell the truck and take a small hit. Not recommended but I have seen it some before. A lot of work and not for the un-skilled. Some will never ever be able to turn wrenches on any thing and make it work. The Ford Parts Salesman I talked to quoted 6500.00 for the complete crate engine. Harness would need be rewired and the ECU redundancy is a option. The rest is not as needed. Light enough to run Air conditioning and plenty of power to drive that. I am not asking 302 horse power from my V6, I want just 280 for take off and 220 for cruise. Economy cruise TBD. I am here to show what I am building and the option it will have. I did not tell other how to build there AC. We are free to choose. Once the only horse power was by the horse and that was the ideal. Some one figured out a better way. Aircraft Builder Piper Cubs, PA-12 Reconstructed damaged C-172 C-152 and others. Covered Feathers for a few AT6's and a B26. Rebuilt 14 engines and flew my work. Flight experience's were mostly single engine land. I loved the EAA and the experimental aircraft movement. I am apart of aviation I going to test bed my choice for my AC. Engine builder, Welder, Machinist, Sheet Metal Dope and Fabric fabricator. I have well connected friends and access to some impressive minds. Things I do not know of I get help. I will close with this. Any one can talk down any thing. Are we not here to learn more about what we can achieve? I get the don't try that by so many and a list of all the failures. Those failed for reasons that are self evident. If I were trying from what they used I would also fail. I have a better idea and I have the ability so I have no a reason to quit. Ever success story has countless people telling them it cannot be done. If one accepts this path the reward will be self evident in extended range and low cost of operation. Motoring on with endorsements of a few engineers and well known aerospace engineer whom has no desire to enter this my team vs your team debate. "I readily absorb ideas from every source, frequently starting where the last person left off." Thomas Edison Best regards Build your dreams because they are your dreams. 3 V6's are proceeding

So those out there building there Cozy ( maybe other ) Need not quit just because he finds the leap to finish there project such a Grand Canyon. The bridge to this gap is possible. There are 302 Small block Fords ( bigger better 347 SB Ford )in a Cozy. Do not quit just because you cannot toss 3 stacks of 100's at an engine and still sleep in the same house as your wife. The direct drive 302 can run at 1/2 speed forever ( relatively ) 3000 rpm for this engine is nothing for it to deal with. If I was not into mine (3.7) I would seriously look at the SB Ford in all alloy. Dart 31345235 Aluminum Ford Small Blocks - Aluminum - SB Ford Block - $5,990.17 Ford Racing Mustang Cylinder Head C3 Aluminum 302/351 $1,149.99 X 2 = $2299.98 a pair Ford 289-302-351W Serpentine Conversion Kit - Alternator & Power Steering $554.00 Ford Small Block 255 302 351w High Flow Aluminum Water Pump $56.99 Lunati 70534001K3 347 C.I. Small Block Ford Voodoo Crankshaft & Rod Kit $949.97 Those are the big hurdles but this is do-able. This has been done, maybe not to above parts. http://www.contactmagazine.com/roundup.html Do not QUIT. My 2 cents,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,98 left.

That is the Idea. Kent thank you for your post. First let me explain why I am doing this backwards. When I began looking into building a composite canard I wanted a Long Ez. Plans were not sold any more and I was not able to get a local guy to sell his project. I then looked into the Cozy and found it worthy. Then I notice people quitting there projects. I asked every one whom was selling there plans or projects to find out why. I was in the process of buying a set of plans more than a project. ( I helped my Dad build several aircraft growing up so this was cool stuff ). I did locate a set of plans and I found out the guys quitting ( not all but some ) Gave up at the point of high expenses to obtain the 28-32,000.00 USD price tag on a Lycoming. Then instruments and radios just bumped them out of the desire to finish. Ok you can build the airframe to a point on a low budget then hit a wall. I do not find factory Lycoming's or Continentals the paramount of engine selection. I have seen them fail. When new there are very reliable. Rebuilt a few times and fatigue sets in and there is no way to prove how many time a power plant has been used unless you have the original log books to know. Air cooled engine come with handicaps that I think it is time to look else where. The early auto engines were heavy and old metallurgy prone to fail if pushed to justify the weight of a iron block and heads. Aluminum engines were too weak. Failures some think are reason to abandon such ideas. Ok if we did that we would have never gone any where because every new step is never 100% certain. If one reads all about this engine. you'd know it will not require a mixture control. This is to adjust the fuel air ratio at altitude and ran rich on take off because the Air Cooled engine is prone to detonation if run lean. Liquid cooled with ECU/ECM or what ever one wants to call them get constant inputs and adjust the fuel thousands of times per second. Giving the engine exactly what it needs when it needs it. So this will not be altered. While it has direct cylinder injection there is not fuel evaporating water to freeze through the manifold to require Carb Heat. But I will install it any way and use it as has been, this is why not, not harm no fowl. Some believe dual ignition and dual spark plugs are required too. Old school Air-cooled run low compression and Magnetos with high amounts of lead in the fuel. With a Rich mixture this is a concoction that requires that redundancy. Other than redundancy for a back up ECU and input sensors required to keep it running is all that We ( not just me ) are looking into. If you place an IO-540 on a test stand and this ( 3.7 V6 ) engine side by side to run them through hell. I know which one cannot take it. So I will fly the other. It survived a brutal endurance test no engine I have ever used could take and live. I was a Chevy guy key word here "was" I now have no brand loyalty. Try WOT for 6 weeks 24/7 ( 6200rpm ) The 540 might make 3300rpm for a day. Then 3.7 did not quit or cry. There was a crash on our field ( 30F Lakeview Lake Dallas TX ) back in the day. Engine failure on take off. My Dad pulled the Pilot out of his burning aircraft ( an Antique what craft I do not remember I was told of this ) They became close friends and he credited my Dad for saving his life risking harm to save him. The Engine had been rebuilt one too many times. As far as I know there is no way to dead line one after 2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9 rebuilds. So buyer beware. The connecting rod and crank snapped is what I remember. ( Ken Hilts NTSB it ) So I'll research it later. My Dad salvaged AC wreckage so I saw quite a few boo boo's

Dumb question to ask you. Your only interested in those 2 Cozy's? So many Mk 4's are out there to have. 2 cents

If you double check this you will find this engine will fit in the cowling of the Cozy Mk IV. Use of the 5th bolt is the way I am going. Designing a engine mount to run this engine on a test stand when ready. The Head tapper from 24" wide at the front of the case to 21" at the bell housing. Thus wide a firewall and narrower near PSRU. The angle of exhaust is downward and with proper bending a clean install is possible. Oil cooling is already set up. What your looking at is a very light robust engine that Ford tested to extremes you should never see operating it in your AC. This is best find I found looking for quiet some time and brand new I was quoted a crate engine harness and all parts to install. about 12k Crate new. I paid a fraction of that because mine only has 5206 miles on it. With such a low entry price I can afford better parts else where. BONUS!

Another builder requested detail photos to work with. So I am sharing then with you. BTW this engine looks like I can run it in a standard Cozy with out extending the fuselage as the other big engines must do. Waiting on the hard numbers. Oh and with Air conditioning! Yes the AC pump is light weight too! https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B2nIwJXmkk9cfnlZUDdjb1dLSkluXzV1ZmptVVJ3MVBwdjdvbTl4NjFjNHJ6Sm5MZEhkNW8&usp=sharing http://v6mustangperformance.com/news/ford-mustang-3-7l-v6-engine-explained/ http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/2005_to_2013_mustang_v.htmRebuilder parts.

With a large family of engines to choose from. I have a 2012 F150 version. I think it is the best option. with a lower intake manifold. 273 hp (204 kW) at 6250 rpm and 270 lb·ft (366 N·m) at 4250 rpm 2008–present Mazda CX-9 (MZI) 272 hp (203 kW) at 6250 rpm and 269 lb·ft (365 N·m) at 4250 rpm 2009–2013 Mazda 6 (MZI) 275 hp (205 kW) at 6250 rpm and 276 lb·ft (374 N·m) at 4250 rpm 2009-2012 Lincoln MKS 268 hp (200 kW) at 6250 rpm and 267 lb·ft (362 N·m) at 4250 rpm 2010 Lincoln MKT 300 hp (224 kW) at 6500 rpm and 270 lb·ft (366 N·m) at 4000 rpm 2013-present Lincoln MKZ Ti-VCT 302 hp (225 kW) at 6500 rpm and 278 lb·ft (377 N·m) at 4000 rpm 2011-present Ford F-150 [5] Ti-VCT 305 hp (227 kW) at 6500 rpm and 280 lb·ft (380 N·m) at 4250 rpm 2011 Ford Mustang 2011 Lincoln MKX[6] 2011 Ford Edge Sport Ti-VCT 304hp at 6500 rpm and 279 lb-ft at 4000rpm 2013 Lincoln MKS Ti-VCT 310 hp (231 kW) at 6500 rpm and 288 lb·ft (390 N·m) at 4500 rpm 2012 Ginetta G60

The Ford V6 you find in many of today cars has a numbers enough to find and use. While not yet used in any aircraft to date I know of yet. It has been used in the Baha 1000 extreme brutal race. The new 3.7L 4V Ti-VCT V6 engine achieves an industry-exclusive 305 horsepower and 280 lb.-ft. of torque while delivering an EPA-estimated 31 hwy MPG*. That’s due in part to twin independent variable cam timing (TiVCT) which allows variable control of intake valve closing. This capability optimizes combustion at full load to provide improved power and low speed torque. It also enables variable valve overlap, which provides better fuel economy and optimizes cold start operation with improved exhaust emissions. *EPA-estimated 19 city/31 hwy mpg – 3.7L 4V Ti-VCT V6 with a six-speed automatic transmission; EPA-estimated 19 city/29 hwy mpg – 3.7L 4V Ti-VCT V6 with a six-speed manual transmission. http://v6mustangperformance.com/fordv6enginecutaway/ Ford PDF says Dry weight is 205 lbs. 305 HP at 6200 RPM --------- Redline at 6700 285 Ft lbs. of Torque at 4850 RPM For those that require WOT this engine should work fine. Ford has beefed up the bottom end reinforced with 6 bolt main caps. Ford built this power plant with a forged steel crankshaft, standard. When I compare this engine to others, it still looks good on paper. In production from a long line of V6 engines that evolved into this mighty little package.

https://www.mazdatrix.com/engpartrace.htm Aluminum 13B / 20B Components ------------------------ ( near bottom of that page ). http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1986-1992/Rotor-Intermediate-Housings.html Another site. http://www.rotaryengine.com/services/aluminumhouse.htm Another site. Google may have several more. There maybe others whom sells these and higher quality I cannot say. I do know the 3mm Apex Seals are the best upgrade money can buy for these. So I am told. http://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tech-103/racing-beat-aluminum-side-housings-761053/ Notes the weights OEM vs. One Venders parts.

How accurate is that scale. I have used some and that could vary a tad, I have access to a medical scale which would allow a very accurate reading. Also is your engine alloy or not? Some offer alloy components to build from. Weight is every thing.