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Voidhawk9

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Everything posted by Voidhawk9

  1. Voidhawk9

    A different 3" spar tape - usable?

    I have bought some 3" uni tape from France, believed to have been intended for someone's canard project, but never used. It is a bit different to the 'usual' heavy stuff. See photo for side-by-side comparison. I have enough of the usual tape for a canard, and enough of the lighter tape for an entire cozy (estimated by weight). There are more cross-threads, and they do not seem to be readily removeable. Obviously being a lighter / thinner tape, I'd need more layers to fill the troughs. Can anyone advise on whether this tape is a good substitute? Perhaps this stuff has been used by some Cosy Classic builders?
  2. Voidhawk9

    A different 3" spar tape - usable?

    >One year later< I corresponded some months ago with a French supplier, and found where you can still buy the same tape, albeit not at 3" (75mm) wide: UD E glass cloth 600 g/m² Last week I laid up two test pieces to do a relative test between the plans spar tape from ACS, and this 'alternative spar tape'. Photos below. They are basically identical samples, 3 plies of the plans tape 12" long, and an equivalent weight of alternative tape, which ended up as about 5.5 plies (the half cut full-length, half width). They were laid up side-by-side (with dams, 3" apart) with the same batch of epoxy. You will see some waviness on the bottom, from the plastic ripples underneath. Both samples have similar ripples. I cured for 3 days, the last day or so in my hot box to ensure they were thoroughly cured. The samples are the same size and thickness, to within a small fraction of a millimetre. The alternative sample came out 16% heavier, probably largely a result of retaining the cross-threads (not removable) while the plans sample cross threads were removed per plans. Then I tried a stress test to see if there was any difference between the two. I clamped 50mm of one end to the bench, then clamped a bucket with various weights to the other end. I didn't measure the weights, only the deflection of each with the same weights applied for a relative comparison. The alternative sample deflected an average of 51% as much as the plans sample! This really surprised me. HALF the deflection?! I bent both samples about 120deg (using clamps, too much force required to do by hand and / or didn't want to be that close in case one failed!), neither had any problem with that as far as I can tell (no cracking noises either) except that they did twist a bit, thus the longitudinal cracks in the plans sample. Any ideas on other tests I could do with basic workshop equipment? Any ideas why the alternative sample was so much stiffer? I'm thinking maybe the fibre density was higher as the many smaller bundles are held together tightly by the cross-threads. Anyway, interesting results so far.
  3. Voidhawk9

    New Q200 Owner

    That's a really nice looking example, I like the cooling plenums as well. Should be a very fun airplane!
  4. Voidhawk9

    Sales I've seen

    Is this is the SQ2000 referenced in this post, I wonder?
  5. Voidhawk9

    New Long-ez build

    The Cozy spar is not as thick in the middle section, but 2ft longer. Curious, I'd have expected it to be thicker.
  6. I have a website to record my build progress over at www.canardspeed.com, but it is woefully out of date. So I figured I might post here from time to time. I might get some useful feedback to boot! I am building from Aerocanard plans, but with a few modifications that will mean it will not be called an Aerocanard or a Cozy when complete. You'll probably notice a few differences as we go along! Most notably so far, the fuselage is 6" wider at the front seatback, smoothly tapering to standard Aerocanard FG width at the firewall (a bit wider than a Cozy) and intersecting the standard nose profile at around F-10 forward. Today was plane day, though I had some stuff to do that meant I didn't use the whole day. The task was to fabricate and install the outboard seatbelt reinforcements. As you'll see, I have twice as many as per-plans (I know, I know, they came back down when I threw them up in the air!). The reason for the extras further forward in the front seat is in case Beagle ever flies with me so that he can sit far enough forward to reach the panel because I will be installing 6-point harnesses in the front seats. The extras in the back seat area are for securing heavy items in this area, such as auxiliary fuel tanks for trans-oceanic operations (which are more likely to be used when one is located on an island in the South Pacific!). The ply inserts came out nicely, and were easier to make than I first anticipated. Almost a shame to cover them up with so much glass! Floxed into the front seat-area. Pressing them into place, the excess flox squeezed out and the inserts became satisfyingly rigid in their locations. Rear hardpoints glassed and peel-plied. The yellow area on the floor is where I used a ply of aramid in place of the extra BID in this area when building the floor. I just 'happened' to have some around... The white along the edges of some of the tapes joining the floor to the fuselage is a result of being unexpectedly interrupted before I could peel-ply those tapes. That certainly added a lot of time to the build as I dealt with all those tape edges! And a few bloodied fingers (all mine) along the way too. So I've left it now to cure. Almost done with the fuselage tub!
  7. That's a short list! Outside of NZ, everywhere is far away, and I am not aware of anyone in NZ right now that would need one. Most builders over here are building aircraft capable of rough-field operation, which is sensible given the rarity of runways over here. I'll just fly high enough to glide to one most of the time. Yes, it seems a shame to ditch these carefully built jigs, so I hold on to them intact as long as practical. Parts of the fuselage side jig came in useful once I finished the tub, it is presently stored on its side using a side jig with some foam tape on it to protect the glass, and covered with a tarp.
  8. The last couple of months I didn't get much done on the project due to higher priority projects that are now complete. I learned a new dance move this week. I call it the 'spar jig'. The supports under the end are a bit different to plans to ensure stiffness of the jig hanging off the end of my slightly short table. Actually probably easier to do it this way anyway, since the long support is the off-cut from the big back panel. Also slightly visible is my 'cheap little sucker' vacuum system under the bench. It works great. I also laid up the crush plate required for installing the Infinity Retracts. Came out nicely. It will be cut in half (lengthwise) and trimmed to fit basically in place of the foam in the front face of the end of the spar. Was lucky enough to have a couple of canard pilots visit last week (a rare occasion in this part of the world), one of whom had previously worked at Scaled. He declared the quality of my fuselage tub to be very good. That's a good dose of builder motivation right there! 🤓
  9. Voidhawk9

    New Long-ez build

    Sounds like a Long is a perfect candidate, then! 5 years is ambitious, but doable, especially if you get a head start by buying an existing project.
  10. Voidhawk9

    New Long-ez build

    For certain, the canard-building community is quieter than it once was, but there are still many builders out there! I also planned to build a Long, but after some research and feedback from my wife, switched to a Cozy.
  11. Voidhawk9

    Sales I've seen

    Huh, why is Nate selling his plane?
  12. Voidhawk9

    Kent's Long-EZ project

    While I have not yet built a cooling system on my project, it is a subject I have studied a fair amount, as it is one in which you can make good gains, or mess up entirely. Creating a restriction like that is a sure way to the latter end!
  13. Voidhawk9

    Kent's Long-EZ project

    I recently read the book "How to build a Car", which is an autobiography of the most successful F1 car designer in history. Mostly it is the story of the cars he designed and built, and it is a great read that I highly recommend. From the book it is clear that the aerodynamics are very clever indeed, but also that they are strongly focussed on ground effect and working around very defined and strict limitations imposed by the FIA. So what you see on F1 cars, Indy cars, etc. may or may not apply well to our unrestricted flying machines.
  14. Voidhawk9

    Kent's Long-EZ project

    You can lead a horse to water, but you cannot force him to drink.
  15. Voidhawk9

    Sales I've seen

    No pics means 50% discount, right? 🤔
  16. Voidhawk9

    Kent's Long-EZ project

    Steep turns at below 500' (and typically at 200' AGL) are part of PPL training here in New Zealand. Good fun and a bit exciting, for sure. But not specifically related to 'the impossible turn', but rather poor weather / precautionary landing simulation. Finding that best performance is at best L/D speed (for straight and level, I presume) is interesting. My mind wonders if a little extra speed might help given the loading being applied, but then minimum radius is a consideration too, so that may balance things out. Just off the top of my head! I haven't any experience in canards yet, but I have done a little testing of this in a couple of other types. A DA-20 can do it with ease from 300'. We always joked that you could glide to your home runway in one of these from ANY location, including x-country flight! 😜 An R200 doesn't seem to be capable of returning to the runway until established downwind, and then only if there is little or no crosswind against you!
  17. Voidhawk9

    Important Update regarding Open-EZ Rev 5 Templates

    Mike Arnold's videos are also a great resource:
  18. Voidhawk9

    Important Update regarding Open-EZ Rev 5 Templates

    The Long-EZ documents in the TERF CD are: High-performance rudder (full-length) Special Performance Canard (Roncz) Lycoming Engine Installation Operating Manual Plans As well as a few low-quality photos and a cutaway. So I'd say you do not need the TERF CD. In case you haven't seen yet, I recommend watching this if you are planning to build (do it!):
  19. Voidhawk9

    Important Update regarding Open-EZ Rev 5 Templates

    There is nothing later that I am aware of, and this site is where you would find it.
  20. I hope so too, that's only a few years away! While I do not think the structure would fail if I didn't postcure, it is recommended by the manufacturer. As per Slide 32, manufacturers recommendations should be followed.
  21. Not mad at all, I appreciate the feedback. The post cure is recommended for this epoxy system, so I believe that is a good reason to do it. Once I got it set up (an hour?), I only checked on it from time to time while working in my office, so it was not a big time-sink, perhaps 2-3 hours total. Due to life circumstances (2x career changes, house moves, etc), it did take me until 2016 before I was able to lay-up my first actual parts in Chapter 4. I first seriously started considering building following the CSA BBQ at Osh 2011. In the intervening time, I managed to read through most of the e-mail list archives, forums, many builders logs, etc. so it was not all time lost! It has been slow since then as well, largely due to work and another house move, and of course, the kids have to come before the project; my marriage is also a higher priority, which I have seen is not the case for some, to their detriment. But the pace is picking up and I'm hoping to move much more quickly in the year ahead. There are more disruptions on the horizon, but I'll keep doing what I can when I can rather than wait for everything to be perfect. I'll see you at a fly-in (with my airplane) sometime in the mid-2020s!
  22. It's cake day! Well, not quite - I'm baking a Cozy tub! The epoxy system I am using reaches its full potential and highest HDT with a mild post-cure (frankly, so do most other systems, and per Gary Hunter, post-curing improves chemical resistance as well). I can still get a good cure at anything above 15c, but since I have built a heat-tent sized to fit the tub to assist with curing during cooler months anyway... I set the tub on the workbench on two lateral 'rails' to leave some air-space underneath. I used thick rags between the wooden rails and the fuselage bottom to provide some thermal insulation to avoid a 'cool spot' where the wood will wick away heat into the workbench. The frame of the heat-tent fits around the workbench, with transparent plastic panels at each end, and a 2kw fan heater mounted in the aft end of the heat tent. The same end has a temperature controller that the fan heater is plugged into, and a temperature sensor that I clipped about 6 inches above the floor in the backseat area. I placed a 2kw convection heater (safety circuit disabled - it had failed previously so I just bypassed it) in the front seat area, and a floor fan in the backseat area blowing forward and to one side to circulate the heated air and keep the temperature in there more even, as well as to help the warm air make its way around the exterior of the fuselage. The photo shows the rough positioning, I moved things around a bit and ensured there was no strain or stress on the cables before beginning. With everything in place I covered the entire apparatus with a tarp clipped to the edges to mostly seal it up (the fan heater draws in air from outside the tent, providing a positive pressure and forcing the coolest air at the bottom out of the small gaps), and some sheets and canvas I had around on top of that for insulation. Power-on, and gradually step-up the temperature, 35c (95f) for an hour, then 55c (130f) for an hour, then to the max target of 70c (158f) for 6 hours. It is still baking as I type. The convection heater is running at partial load, 1.2kw, and the 2kw fan heater cycles on and off to maintain 70c. So I have lots of margin heat-wise, which is nice. If nothing else, I know I will be able to spill hot avgas in the cockpit without harming the structure! ?
  23. Voidhawk9

    Engine Selection

    This is certainly a topic worthy of plenty of time and research. I have been for years, and I'm still years away from installing an engine. But I have a fair idea of what I'm going to do. I might argue with the idea that Lycomings are 'bulletproof'. Yeah, they are generally reliable, but they have their flaws and issues (I've been aboard a twin that suffered an unidentified failure). It is just that they are so old that the flaws and fixes are very well known. For the Jabiru, clearly, you'd need to design a very different cooling setup to make it work. Possible, perhaps with an effective eductor. I studied and liked the rotary for a long time. I've read and re-read John Slade's site, and the experiences of others. It can be a good engine... but. It appears to be a 'dead-end' design at this point. You would need to design and integrate a turbo setup, adding to the complexity. You'd need a better cooling design. I'm just not convinced the rotary is worth it at this point. I do like some auto conversions. Looking beyond the canard world, there are a great number of successful implemetations to study. Keeping it simple (so far as possible) and not being tempted to 'make it better' yourself (ie swapping cams, pistons etc), seem to be prime indicators for success. The Alternative Engines volumes are educational reading on the topic. One engine that could be a great fit for a Cozy (or even maybe a Long) and one I am watching with interest is the Aeromomentum AM20T. 260hp in a lightweight package built new for aircraft use. As yet unproven, but the company and its other engines appear to have a great reputation and expertise in the field so far. The same cannot be said for some other similar engine conversion companies.
  24. At least two need to move out of home by then (another is on the way) so I have enough seats for everyone!!! Of course, it is fun to be able to sit in it now and imagine. It is also encouraging that this collection of parts that were pretty fragile in their incomplete state not long ago is quite tough and robust now. Good for confidence - not that I doubted before.
  25. Tub complete (except a few touch-ups and repair to the rotisserie mounting holes). Taking a test-flight with my 3 boys: Intending to get started on the centre section spar next, as I have all the materials needed to do so already.
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