ErlendM
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Everything posted by ErlendM
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It seems like I can just postpone F28 until chapter 12. I've read through the plans and can't see any reason to add F28 at all until I am going to mount the canard. Then I will be able to get the correct position.
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I discovered this myself right before I started this thread . I managed to flox the doubler in front of the 5" mark instead of behind. Luckily I managed to correct this before I glassed the longeron... However - the question 5.9" vs. 6.25" is open still. I got an answer on the Cozy-list where I was adviced to move the doubler to position 5.5" instead of 5.0". When I measured on the plans this makes sense. It gives more material to attach the bolt later on. Looks like the FAQ should be updated a bit. The text in chapter 5 should be moved to chapter 6, and maybe it should be adviced in chapter 5 to move the doubler from 5.0" to 5.5".
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In the Cozy-FAQ it says in ch 5: Change the 5.9" dimension to 6.25". I understand why, but I can't figure out what part in ch 5 I should change. I find this in ch 6, but I can't see any place that 5.9" is mentioned in ch 5. Could anyone please enlighten me here?
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Looks real nice! Will this fit a Cozy as well? Would you be able to sell these?
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I have a question regarding the ribs on the instrument panel. The BID that goes on the "hole"-side of the rib - where does it stop? Do I wrap it on the aft side (I don't think so), do I end it flush with the aft side? Could anyone please point me to the place where making BID-tapes are explained? Thanks!
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Did the rest of the glassing yesterday, following some of the advices given. I know one of the mistakes I did previous, I poured way too much slurry on the foam, and struggling to remove the excess I was too sloppy and much went outside the foam. This time I used a brush and painted on the slurry at places with little foam, and used the squeege with causion. I also put the pieces on some foam-parts to elevate them as suggested. Worked like a dream, and I could easily wipe off the few drops that came underneath. Now the parts are curing under weight - I'm looking forward to see the weight of my parts.
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Dean, think about all the composite-built boats you see around in the harbours... No reason to worry!
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Many interesting answers here! I did weight the parts down, so yes, the epoxy/slurry is flat. And it's not THAT much. I'll just rub it for now. It could be a good idea to raise the parts a bit, I'll try that approach now when I am going down to my garage. Too little micro? Perhaps... I mixed it so it looked like the slurry that Rutan and Melville used in the composite-video. Approx the same volume with micro as epoxy. How does that sound? The saga continues...
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Just a general question: When I worked with the seatback and now bulkheads, I got microslurry and epoxy on the underside of the foam. I have covered my workbench with saran-wrap and some of the slurry and epoxy that was spilled went in between the foam and saran. Is there a way to avoid this? Do I just sand this away before I begin to work on the opposite side? And how do I avoid this to happen on the now already finished glassed side that will be facing down?
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You're not alone at all! I'm the owner of plans #1556. Have just started on ch. 4. Front seatback is done, finished aft side of F22, F28 and IP yesterday. This is fun!
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Thanks for sharing, Chris! This was a great inspiration for me - just started on the first bulkheads!
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Then I'm ready after spending countless of hours in preparing my garage for the project. I'm rather pleased now, here are some pictures and a description of how it looks like: http://cozy.ljosnes.no/preparations.html
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Is there anything new about the situation at Superiors?
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Sorry for interupting - but beeing new to this, what is hardshell?
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Try this site: http://www.flyingthingz.com/
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I am a RC-instructor and the favorite video I show my "students" is this one.
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That's interesting! Hydrochloric Acid is in my hardware store. I even used it to rinse my concrete-floor prior to painting it! The Hydrochloric Acid is 30%. Do I just submerge the parts in this fluid for 2 - 5 minutes, then rinse in water? Will this be adequate prior to Alodine? Edit: If I am to use Alumiprep 33 I should use 25 parts Alumiprep to 75 parts water. I guess I should use the same mixture with HCl?
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Now I've got Alodine from Spruce. However - they could not send Alumprep since it's considered Hazardous. Is it ok to clean the aluminum with acetone before I use Alodine?
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Could you repost the last two pictures please? They are a bit small to read the text...
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Is it correct to assume that all parts of aluminum should be treated to avoid corrosion? I plan to use Alodine 1201 on all parts that are not pre-manufactured and treated. The plans calls for 2024-T3 and I have ordered as pr. plans. However I spoke with an other builder (and flyer) - he says he used 6061-T6 all over, with no corrosion-protection. Does anyone have experiences with this? I feel more comfortable to stay to the plans, but if the other type is better, and doesn't need protection, than it will be easier to just use that.
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I can see that one . I was just thinking that since the seat is so reclined, wouldn't the body easily glide under the lap-belt in case of a chrash or instant stop?
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Is it possible to mount a 5-point racing-seatbelt in the Cozy? How/where should I attach the crotch-belt?
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If I am to peel-ply everything (Cozy IV) - could someone please give me a roughly estimate on how many yards or meters I would need? My local supplier can deliver peel-ply in 1,6 meter wide rolls (63").
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Why not redesign the fron-seats to make it a big one-seater? You will then still have room for your two kids in the back-seat and room for luggage at both sides of the front seat.
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Like this guy who built his own Lamborghini Countach in his basement - without any doors at all... The story is here: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/3382143/Man-digs-under-house-to-remove-home-made-Lamborghini.html