antonio4231

Hurray! I'm glad to see the zone back. I walked by the pitiful pile of parts that I have acumulated the other day and thougth about the zone and how my interest in the project wained after it went down. Thanks for all the effort required to get it going again.

I picked up a digital kitchen scale at my local Big Lots store. Eleven pound capacity or 5 Kg. Measures down fractional ounces. Place it inside a gallon size ziplock bag, I figure it will be good for the whole build. Price 12.00 plus tax. just my 2 cents. anthony

Have you looked at the ones on Barnstormers? I know there are two listed on that site.

sorry, I missed your question until today. I burned the pdf file on to a disc and then took them to the above mentioned store. Make sure that the copy person knows that these are line drawings or the may try to charge you extra.

I'm not the seller, but I ran across a set of long ez plans on several Brock metal parts on E-Bay. I'm not at the point where I would need these parts so I thought I would bring them to the attention of the group. Anthony

Ok, I've been trying to get started building an open-ez for a couple of years now but life keeps getting in the way. So instead of starting on the fuselage, I've spent what time I have had available in building metal and wood parts and research. I want to build a pretty standard long, with only a long nose mod and maybe a forward opening spit canopy and a rollbar to replace the ugly head rest. My question is during all my reading and research, I came across a person building a long with a fuel sump in the back and no fuel selector in the cockpit. I think that the verieze was built with a sump in the back. What are the pro's and con's of removing the fuel selector from betwixt your thighs? It seems to me that it would increase safety by removing a potential point of failure from a sticking valve/switched to wrong tank in a crisis? Also it removes the potential for being showered in fuel in case of a catastrophic failure involving rupture of a fuel line/valve in the event of a hard landing? I don't know enough about this to form an opinion, so please share your thoughts. Thanks Anthony

Sorry, I thought of this after I posted the above, but also go ahead and print the open-ez templates on your home printer on either legal size paper or just regular paper. I find these not-to-scale drawing handy for lots of reasons. First you get the practice of joining multiple sheets. Second they are much easier to handle when you are in the studying, pre-build phase. Third you can mark them up, make notes, write out questions that need clarifying or more study, while keeping your full size templates clean and clear. Hope this helps. Anthony

Hi there, I hope this helps, but I took my open-ez templates on CD,to either Office Depot or Staples, ( been a while). I asked if they had the capabilities to print to the specific paper size, and then had them print out a single page, and checked the dimensions on it. Things were spot on, so I had them print the whole batch, seems like it took a couple of hours ( so I went to the movies) and the total cost was less than 50 dollars. These companies usually have the printers need to print blueprints so they are used to printing large scale drawings that are dimensionally accurate and the price is right.

Thanks. There are just too many related forums and though I try to keep up with them all, I must have missed that thread.

Wicks lists 1/4 inch 15.6 lb divinycell as the material for the instrument panel for the long-ez. Though in the CP #26 page 3, seems to suggest that the 0.2 inch 18 lb last-a-foam is a substitute. The last-a-foam is about 20 bucks a sheet as opposed to a hundred for the divinycell. I have searched the archives but to no avail for clarification. Please help me get this sorted out. Thanks

Ok, I have had a few days off and have spent some of that time making parts. (photo's to follow soon, when I remember to get a battery for my digital camera) I have a newby question to ask. Can the doublers for the upper longeron be glued on before they are installed in the fusalage? Can the lwx and lwy sub-assemblies be glued up also? I'm thinking that I can do a better job of clamping and gluing before they are installed. Also while I am on the subject, Does anyone have an issue with using Gorilla glue to join the wooden elements. I know that the strength of any good glue should exceed the tear out strength of the wood itself, ( the wood shoulud fail before the glue joint). Thanks for any feedback. Oh, by the way I got my plans printed at Staples on their machine set up for mechanical drawings, less than 25 bucks for the whole set ( checked and the measurements are correct ). While there I also picked up an engineers scale that is broken down in tenths of an inch.

I'm not trying to shatter anyones dreams here, but I bought the terf cd off of Matt on Ebay, printed the relevant chapters and Canard Pusher newsletters and downloaded the open-ez drawing and had them printed all for less than 3 Benjamins. I know that plans are still selling for a ton of money on Ebay, but I think that it is because the buyers are completely unaware of other options. Anthony pre-building amost everyday!

Thanks to everyone that replied. As a long time motorcycle rider, I know that almost anything can be had from the local cycle shop, for a price. I also know that many items can be found through other suppliers. While I am all for supporting my local businesses (ACS and Wicks), sometimes the budget dictates another path. ( I know, right now there is someone out there, poised to post, that if I am that conerned about costs I should never start the project). I have wanted to build a canard aircraft since I first saw a Vari-Ez on the cover of Popular Science in the 70's (which I still have), but for a number of years no plans were available:( , and time slipped by. Now in my middle age, I have determined that if I'm going to do this I have to start NOW! And while I will probably end up ordering the bulk of the materials though the approved suppliers, it would chap my hide to find out after the fact that there was a less expensive route.

How is your search for local suppliers going. I'm in the Southern Oklahoma area and have the plans and terf cd, and would like to start on an open-ez soon. I would be interested in any information that you have accumulated. Also I'm looking to assist someone who is in the fiberglass/foam stage of a project to gain hands on experience.

Looking to buy materials for the open ez fuselage. Is there anyone out there that has purchased the foam and glass and epoxy, for a long/open-ez and then decided not to pursue the project? Would prefer the North Texas/ Southern Oklahoma area, to avoid shipping. Also looking to attend a "plane day" with someone in the same area, who is in the glass layup stage of their project. Thanks

Ok, I have a newby question. I have the Terf cd, open ez drawings downloaded, but not printed to scale, yet. I want to go ahead and order the materials I need to get started on chapter 4. Can anyone give a list of materials by name or order # from Aircraft Spruce or Wicks? I must confess that the name changes on the foam from the old designations to today have me totally confused! Also, I have dug through these archive and I have not been able to learn enough to decide on which epoxy system is the best for the long EZ. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Anthony