spg_76013

Hi All - Rick, thanks for the clarification on the lighting angle vs. year of manufacture, I forgot about that. And yes, there is information missing: the nav LED lights may require a reflector to cover all angles, unless a triple-branch LED like the one I'm using ("Luxen K2 Star"). I'll be sure to check it from all angles before finishing installation. If needed to cover all angles, I'll use two LEDs installed on an aluminum reflector at the proper angles. They cost just a few dollars each, and last 100,000 hours or so. On the candlepower: I think a lumen is defined as the light produced by one candle shining in one square foot one foot away -- it is not a function of time, just intensity. So a 400-lumen strobe, flashing for a tenth of a second or 1 hour, is still outputting 400 lumen. LEDs come on in hundredths of a second, so they are fully bright very quickly. I'm keeping mine on for just under 1/10 of a second each second -- plenty of time to ramp up to full brightness. I'll post my circuit diagram in a few days. Regards, SPG1 Arlington, Tx

Hi All, Regarding the use and design of LED systems, there is a good post at this link: http://www.eaa724.org/MeetingsEventsYear2004.html#anchorGarratt scroll down a bit until you see the discussion about LEDs. There are some useful links regarding the lighting requirements. Quoting that article: "Basically, you need 360 degree strobe coverage horizontally, plus 30 degrees of vertical visibility. The side position lights need 110 degrees of horizontal coverage, and a white tail position light must be seen from 70 degrees aft." I just built a nice strobe/nav light system for my VariEze, total cost was about $70. I purchased 2 Luxeon 480-lumen LEDs (min FAA req't is 400 lumen) and made a 2-inch square flashing circuit out of about $20 in parts from Radio Shack for the strobe system. (total parts: 1 IC + 3 resistors + 1 + the 2 LEDs). I used specific values of the resistors & the capacitor to obtain an 80 milli-second flash every 0.8 seconds.. a nice 'strobe' effect... it's an easy calculation to tweak it to whatever you desire. The wingtip lights required just one 75-lumen LED and 1 resistor per side, tied into the 12V bus/switch/circuit breaker. My system is on the bench now, I'm currently working on the mount/installation into the plane now. I'm putting the nav lights on the canard tips, the strobes on the wing tips. I'd be happy to post the entire parts list, flashing circuit, etc. if anyone is interested. SPG1 Arlington, Tx

Dan - A compilation of reported weights for over 100 VariEze from the CSA archives shows empty weights ranging from 550 lb to 1050 lb, with an average of 697 lb. Some folks fly above the 1050-lb handbook maximum, perhaps rationalizing that the current 2.5G-restriction recommended by RAF for all VariEzes allows for a higher gross weight (it does not). Build light! SPG1 Arlington, Tx

Tony, FYI, certain models of M-S carburetors do *not* have an mixture idle cutoff -- you have to kill the engine with the mags. Such is the case with my C-85. We thought we had a problem when full-lean mixture would not kill the engine, but it was working per design. Check with your O-200 overhaul manual. Regards, SPG1 Arlington, Tx

With regards to gear/canopy/throttle warnings, for your consideration you might be interested in my slightly modified warning circuit, attached in post #7 under Electrical Systems/ Warning Circuit. Regards, SPG1

The Microair 760 fits in a small hole and has a built in intercom. Based on advice from a buddy who has one in his plane, I recently got one ($600 used) and I'm installing it this weekend. I'll let you know of any issues. SPG1

On our C85-powered VariEze, we went with an S-TEC starter, small Odessy battery & B&C 200G Alternator. We've only had a dozen or so starts so far, with no problems. SPG1

Do note that you can convert certain C-65s to C-75s, and certain C-75s to C-85s, and on some models, a C-85 into an O-200. Lots of changes, but do-able. See service bulletin at: http://www.popularaviation.com/docs/Cont_M47_16.pdf SPG1

Here are pictures of the O-200/C-85/C-75 exhaust stacks I've got for sale ($400). They are stainless, and are designed for the typical exit out the lower cowl near the trailing edge, straight out from the cylinders. (i.e., they are *not* the wrap-around which exit near the spinner). This was a design by VariEze/LongEze builder Herb Saunders, who formed Sport Flight in the late 70’s to manufacture and furnish various Eze parts. The stack is in perfect shape. SPG1

Luis- If your project is old enough to have wing cuffs, it probably also has the full-span 150" canard. With ailerons, the full 150" span isn't needed. You might want to trim it to 142" per CP 14. (Is that what you meant by "balance the canard"?) SPG1 p.s., also, I live down the road in Arlington, Tx, and I'm finishing up my VE paint job now, and should start taxi tests in a few weeks. (yes, I've said that before ...). My project was also started from an accident aircraft (both wings torn off in a taxi test). I think I have an extra set of wing attach hardware, too. I'd be happy to share lessons learned. Give me a call any evening. Sean Gillen, 817-795-1665. I'm hangared over in Grand Prairie.

- PreFab VariEze Cowling Set For Sale. Never used. Fits C-85/O-200. Make offer. - Set of Cleveland 5.00x5 wheels & brakes. Does not include brakes discs (I'm keeping them for a spare). Never flown, but has been on a hangar queen for 20+ years; will need new O-rings & perhaps paint. Make offer. - Set of wing attach fittings, still attached to a set of wings involved in accident. Make offer. - C-85 (O-200) exhaust stack, good shape. $400. Pictures on request. Sean Gillen Arlington, Texas

If anyone has done similar with a VariEze POH -- converting it into a Word document, please advise. I'd love to have a copy. SPG1

Torroids: Amidon carries a good supply. Amidon part number FB-43-2401 is used for use with 50-Ohm coax, i.e., RG56/142/400. Regards, SPG1

Hi All - I have ~100 ft of 1" copper tape left over from installing my COM antenna's in my VariEze. (It'll never be an IFR bird, so I don't need any more antennas) Mouser part number 517-1125-1.0. Brand new. How does $0.20 / foot sound? (+postage). I also have 6 extra ferrite torroids, Amidon part number FB-43-2401 (for use with 50-Ohm coax, i.e., RG56/142/400). Also brand new. Free to good home. SPG1 Arlington, Tx

Ghost- You might consider putting some sort of standoff and/or radiator to keep the regulator from directly contacting from the center-section spar. I recall reading test data (from B&Cs website) on the regulator which states that it can get quite hot -- particularly while idling -- somewhere above 140 deg F. Nice panel! I'm jealous. SPG1

Ghost- I first mounted the regulator/capacitor in the hell-hole, but just did not like how it ended up... many fuel lines around lots of hard-to-reach electrical connections. So I moved it to the starboard/aft center-section spar location. By design, the regulator will get hottest when the engine is at idle. I have a digital thermometer which I plan to temporarily affix to the regulator base when I start taxi tests, just to make sure it doesn't get too hot and start melting my center-section spar. Note I have a 1/2-inch standoff floxed to the spar, and I might put mount an additional aluminum heat shield/radiator to the regulator just to vent off more heat. If it is still too hot then, I might add a cooling fan and/or supplemental mini NACA inlet scoop on the bottom cowl to direct some air to the regulator. Hopefully, though, there won't be any issue. I should be starting those tests next month. Check diagram PM_OV504-500_RevE.pdf, available from the B&C website... if both switches are on, then NO (the ALT supply current) is connected to COM, and NC (the lamp) is open. When the ALT switch is off, or the over-voltage module is tripped, the lamp will illuminate. There is no mention of the lamp coming on when the Alt is not charging. Seems like a modification is in order: if the ALT is not charging, we'd sure like to know about it. As designed, this circuit doesn't appear to do that. I'll see if I can figure out a simple, safe mod to do that. SPG1

Thanks again for the input. The steel cable mentioned (linked to the blue knob) is the pitch trim (ala original VariEze plans). A few strands of the cable are frayed outside at the very end of the cable, but they are outside/past the collar. I'll snip them off. Wiring bundles: your reply brings up an interesting point: I worked all the wiring details in before finishing up the canard paint job, so I never thought about potential conflicts between the wire bundles and the canard pushrods. I will do a test fit asap to see if I have any problems there. Also, I haven't done this yet, but I'm planning on building a lightweight snap-on/off cover (just a 2-ply BID layup) to cover up/protect all the wires on the right and left side of the fuselage which are anywhere near wandering feet and the elevator pushrod. Thanks, SPG1

Waiter: Thanks for the alert, but my rudder cables are not yet hooked up.. they were just temporarily tie-wrapped. I'm still a few months away from first flight. I should have gotten them out of the way before I took that picture. It might explain a popped ALT circuit breaker I got last week on engine start. Rich: Thanks for your alert, I will examine all my crimps. It looks like I used the wrong size and/or type of terminal on at least a few of those in the pictures. I will scrub all terminals both there and in the nose asap. This forum is GREAT - thanks for extra pairs of eyes. SPG1

Hi All - Attached is a revised warning circuit table I've developed/implemented into my VariEze, along with the wiring diagram which produces those results. Comments welcome. (And if any electrical guru's out there know can figure a simpler way to get the desired table, please let me know!). Thanks, Sean Gillen Arlington, Tx WarningCircuitNew.pdf

I saw a Q2 at Nassau Bay airport (2800' grass strip) in Granbury Texas a few years back. A buddy of mine lives there, I'll try to track it down for you. SPG1 Arlington, Tx

For sale: a pair of Cleveland 5x5.00 wheels/brakes, but set does NOT include brake discs. (I'm keeping them as spares for my VariEze). Set has never flown, but had been sitting on a hangar queen for ~20+ years. Will need all new O-rings. Pictures on request. $400. Sean Gillen Arlington, Tx 817-795-1665, or email via this forum.

Hi All - My VariEze wing/winglets are complete but not painted. Years ago I failed to install a COM antenna inside the winglets, as I should have. C'est la vie. I realize it might be too late to do so, but figured I'd ask anyway: does anyone have any advice/lessons-learned about installing a COM antenna on a VE winglet at this stage? I've got conduit access at the bottom of the winglet, about mid-chord. Could/should I install the antenna part of the "V" 1/2 way up the winglet, with the ground-plane part of the "V" along the lower surface of the wing, or is that a plain bad idea? Follow-up question: If a winglet-install of a COM at this stage is not a good option, what is the next-best spot, in y'alls opinion? Underside of gear legs? Fuselage sidewall? Any advice appreciated. Sean Gillen Arlington, Tx

Hi - Here are some old pictures (not quite 100% complete wiring) from months ago, but they will give you the general layout. I've since added the amber alternator over-voltage lamp, and a 'reserve fuel' lamp to the panel. Once I start taxi tests (later this month), I'll shrink wrap or tape up all the wiring bundles securing. Right now, I just have them zip-tied to plastics wire anchors floxed to the sidewalls (great little things-- I used over 20 of them). While not a pretty layout, it works. I hope to have first flight by the end of the summer if all goes well. Regards, SPG1

Hi All - Attached is my wiring diagram for my basic-panel VariEze. The diagram isn't pretty, but it is compete. It is amazing how many wires are needed! This diagram uses the warning circuit which I posted previously, and I also added a red fuel lamp, wired to go on whenever the fuel handle is UP, and This plane is wired with a master (battery) and starter relays. It also includes the B&C alternator diagram, along with the OverVoltage regulator (with an amber ALT overvoltage light on the panel.) It also includes a few extra wires run fore-aft for future enhancements. I've run 17 wires to the aft/starboard firewall, and included a diagram for those as well. Only one wire, the heavy 2-gauge starter leads runs along the port side in my plane, going from the battery relay to the starter. The use of colors, dashes and thickness doesn't mean anything other than to help follow the wire. Ideally, I should call out wire gage, which wires are shielded, etc. I'd be happy to send anyone the powerpoint version of this, so you can modify to suit your needs. Regards, Sean Gillen Arlington, Tx fwd.pdf aft.pdf

Hi All - FYI the attached file shows a slight tweak I made to the original Rutan warning circuit: - a green 'gear down' lamp was added which is ON anytime gear is down - the canopy lamp is ON anytime the canopy is unlocked The circuit retains the original features - - red gear lamp ON & Warning Horn ON when: canopy locked + gear up + throttle retarded - gear/throttle warning horn defeat switch - canopy lamp ON & Warning Horn ON when: canopy unlocked + throttle advanced I've also got a wiring diagram for my entire VariEze (basic panel + alternator + starter) if anyone is interested. Regards, SPG1 Arlington, Tx warning.pdf