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Jon Matcho

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Posts posted by Jon Matcho

  1. 5 hours ago, NebraskaQuickieBuilder said:

    Joints running the length of the structure at least in micro slurry (epoxy form) would as you've stated act as a spar...

    (bolding is mine) I made a mistake when I referred to "spar". I meant "rib". Butt joints are like "micro ribs". I was not suggesting a "micro spar", as I was trying to explain here:

    6 hours ago, Jon Matcho said:

    If I understand your dilemma correctly, micro may not be the best bonding agent for extending the chord from wing root to tip. You would just need a bond that is equal to or just slightly stronger than the foam itself, and as close to the mechanical properties of the foam itself. I don't know what that is, but it's out there.

    It's good you're asking around, but ultimately comes down to your decision.

    5 hours ago, NebraskaQuickieBuilder said:

    I guess I'll buy $1600 (2 blocks x $390 plus $800 shipping) if I have to from the grumpiest east coast guy I've ever talked to, if I have to and feel my marriage needs stress with the project right away!  Lmfao!

    Another option is to change your time preference from "need it now" to one that allows for more time and patience. Foam blocks exist in Oregon right now (theoretically), and you'll be surprised what you might find that comes up on barnstormers.com or on the forums somewhere. Post a "wanted" ad in the Marketplace forum here and wait a bit while you work on other areas of your project.

    Just my thoughts...

  2. 3 hours ago, Michael Obermaier said:

    just found this website an hour ago. Interested in a Q2 build in Germany, but still without much knowledge, I think purchasing some construction manual might be a good idea.

    Glad to hear that, and welcome to the forum.

    3 hours ago, Michael Obermaier said:

    Can you please tell me if the "Ultimate Quickie Q2/Q200 Information Package" is up to date concerning today's knowledge and modifications? E.g. is the front wing airfoil that avoids wetness problems the mentioned LS1?

    That package does include the improved LS1 canard profile templates for hot wiring the foam, but to build exactly to plans you'll need to find a replacement for the carbon fiber tube spar. Some have designer their own Rutan-like box spar as a replacement. The plans are more like a time capsule from the time they were originally written as opposed to a modern version. For example, 3D CAD was not really a thing back then, so the plans are all in 2D basically.

    4 hours ago, Michael Obermaier said:

    And is this only downloadable stuff or does it contain paperwork?

    All items for sale are 100% digital downloads and allow the Canard Zone to keep running.

    Welcome, and feel free to post your questions. Many others here are more knowledgeable than me on a variety of topics.

  3. 16 hours ago, NebraskaQuickieBuilder said:

    I'm in need of blue polystyrene billets that are 10x20x and at least 55. Would be best to have 10x24x55+

    You definitely do not need "at least 55" inch foam. Many kits shipped with 48" foam. It's not a problem to have butt joints. You could actually consider them to be "micro spars ribs".

    The other problem with getting beyond 48" is that hot wiring can become problematic, where the wire itself no longer maintains a perfectly straight line (or good enough straight line).

  4. 9 hours ago, NebraskaQuickieBuilder said:

    Current Quickie builders have warned very clearly of NOT joining cores along the length of a core.  Only at the section of the airfoil shape and really only sparingly. That's already been proven as a no no with accident reports. 

    If you got all that from your thread on the Q-List mailing list, I don't see that being said. https://q-list.groups.io/g/main/topic/stearns_q200_core_kit/104005253 I'd also be interested in reading the actual FAA accident reports.

    Done wrong your concern is valid, but it all depends on the bonding agent used. If I understand your dilemma correctly, micro may not be the best bonding agent for extending the chord from wing root to tip. You would just need a bond that is equal to or just slightly stronger than the foam itself, and as close to the mechanical properties of the foam itself. I don't know what that is, but it's out there.

    Another option would be to buy the foam you're comfortable with, and cut another complete wing set and sell that to cover your costs.

  5. 12 hours ago, NebraskaQuickieBuilder said:

    The biggest reason is on the canard being the landing gear [load] bearer...

    You're building the Q200 configuration, yes? Do you have the ever-rare carbon fiber tube-spar in your "kit"?

    12 hours ago, NebraskaQuickieBuilder said:

    ...having a ridge length down the length of the span would probably not be wise and would stress and break free as the canard flexes quite a bit.

    Joining foam as Kent suggested would not weaken your structure. The last thing that would fail would be the foam-micro-foam intersections. Your canard will fail if its spar breaks, and then nothing about the foam will matter after that happens.

    Kent gave you expert advice, which is how Rutan and many others since have done it since. If ACS has 8" foam blocks, they'll work (assuming you understand what Kent suggested). Ask others and I'm sure you'll get similar answers. Forget trying to find a perfectly sized foam block and expect to piece a few together.

    12 hours ago, NebraskaQuickieBuilder said:

    ...will absolutely be unapproved for the 18 inch wide wing and canard main cores per [the] Quickie Builder communities...

    There's nobody you can count on to legally approve/authorize anything, but ask around and I'm sure you'll get same/similar advice as to what Kent suggested.

    12 hours ago, NebraskaQuickieBuilder said:

    ...and ultimately myself.

    Yes, you're the builder/manufacturer and responsible for these decisions.

    12 hours ago, NebraskaQuickieBuilder said:

    Just too much of a risk of the unknown.

    I think you're at the "too much unknown, must be risky" stage. Learn more and figure out how to reduce the risk. Many have dealt with the same exact thing, and again, landed with the solution that Kent offered to you.

  6. Welcome to the forum Barry, you are now a fully-authorized member. The delay you noticed is because first posts for new members are moderated to head off any spammers that sneak through the system.

    You can navigate to the Store here (menu at top) and find what you need for the Q2/Q200. Templates and plans are available, which you can download and take to a local print shop for printing.

    Mice are the bane of my existence as well.

     

     

  7. On 12/11/2023 at 7:07 PM, WildcatMidget said:

    What is the best place to start gathering information on the single-place Quickie?

    You found it! Welcome, feel free to ask away.

    On 12/11/2023 at 7:07 PM, WildcatMidget said:

    I understand Viking (Elkhorn WI) owns the rights.

    Quickie Aircraft Company shutdown without assigning rights. You may be confusing the once-owner of the Dragonfly plans (Viking, although I'm not sure it's an Elkhorn, WI company). Quickie aircraft models are not supported by anyone and require a lot of determination to see a built-from-plans project to completion. Partial kits are out there.

    On 12/11/2023 at 7:07 PM, WildcatMidget said:

    Is the $30 download offered here a good starting place?

    It depends on what your goal is...

    It's a great starting place if you want to learn more about how the original single-seat Quickies were designed and built (purchases help support the Canard Zone as well)!

    There's the Quickie Builders Association website, which the Canard Zone also runs, with all sorts of information available. https://quickheads.com/

     

  8. Browsing this thread I found this:

    On 12/7/2005 at 11:09 AM, Jon Matcho said:

    FWIW, I vote to not bother with the decimal inches. Reason being is that 99.9% of the tape measures do NOT have tenths of inches on them AND a tenth of an inch is LESS PRECISE than 1/16th of an inch.

    For the record, I no longer agree with moving from the plans decimal inches to 16ths of an inch. Just get a decimal tape measure. Stanley makes a good one.

    25 minutes ago, hdmx said:

    I fully intend to publish all CAD files. Of course everyone will be able to check and verify or give feedback.

    Many will appreciate this, and the feedback may be beneficial for yourself.

    26 minutes ago, hdmx said:

    Point 2 is what will be most problematic. It's not a "stock EZ". I will modify the plans according to my needs. Some materials have changed, for example I'm only able to get the PVC foams in metric thicknesses and my drawings will reflect that.

    I understand and am not complaining for you to do anything other than be VERY clear that the model is "not a stock EZ" as you point out. Please.

    30 minutes ago, hdmx said:

    Personally I'll be using CATIA V5. Certainly not the most user-friendly nor the cheapest piece of software. Exporting to a neutral format is probably the only way of sharing the models

    Yeah, not many at all will be using that software. It will be an interesting test to see how various CAD systems load the neutral format exported from your CATIA system. I can test on Autodesk Fusion 360 and the Solidworks offering made available by EAA.org in the US.

  9. On 10/27/2023 at 11:02 AM, hdmx said:

    Already started working on a model myself and if there's a general interest in such a model, I'd consider making the files public

    That would be great, but here are the issues that come to mind after being in and out of this water for years:

    1. The model needs to be trusted, therefore it needs to be built in public, or open and verifiable. All prior attempts have failed in this aspect. You would need to commit to making the files public if you expect any level of adoption, or even good feedback.
    2. There will be an enthusiastic crowd, but that crowd will also include folks that want to improve things (which you may as well). The result will be a Not-EZ. While that may work for a few, it won't work for all. "CAD" seems to imply accuracy and precision to many, but the reality is often that CAD models contain dimensions and measurements that are 100% exactly wrong.
    3. It's a lot of work, and every dimension needs to be accurately verified by not only you, but others before gaining that critical level of trust (see point 1 above).
    4. CAD formats. Which one will you use? Which system will you use? CAD files tend to suffer glitches when importing and exporting between systems. This is why organizations tend to standardize on a single CAD software suite.

    I've thought long and hard how to make this happen, and have yet to get over the amount of work for the expected reward when completed. Any ideas are welcome.

  10. 1 minute ago, zolotiyeruki said:

    I know @Jon Matcho is working on digitizing, verifying, and making available the Defiant plans in the same manner as the Open-EZ.  I found an electronic copy of the plans minus the templates, which are really important to have printed accurately.

    Yep, but better than the initial Open-EZ setup. More like how the Quickie plans were put together (with proper rulers). The Defiant plans have 'actual size' drawings sprinkled throughout, so the scaling and accuracy is important.

    Thanks for the mention -- Open-EZ improvements are still in the queue after a bunch of Forum housekeeping.

  11. All good feedback, but...

    14 hours ago, Marc Zeitlin said:

    ...the $10K seems a bit high - a 50% premium for doing nothing doesn't sound reasonable to me.

    You're basing value relative to the prior purchase price. You wouldn't negotiate with someone relative to the original price you paid for your house, would you? Considering rampant inflation, the scarcity of projects like this, good quality (I am assuming from the pics), and the value of one's time to get this far, "$10,000 or reasonable offer" may be perfect for the right buyer. It's definitely in the ballpark IMO.

  12. 3 hours ago, Ratdog said:

    ...a lot of imperfections that can be fixed with sanding and filling but the penalty for that is weight.

     

    52 minutes ago, Kent Ashton said:

    I use West Microlight filler--easier to sand--but microballoons on the leading edges.  Micro is harder and resists bugs.

    The West 410 Microlight filler mixed in with a West 105/209 epoxy is a joy to sand! That and some good sanding tools/pads would make quick work.

  13. 1 hour ago, Marc Zeitlin said:

    A VFR Long-EZ for $125K? Someone may buy it, I suppose, but to me, that's nuts.

    Inflation is part of the equation here.

    1 hour ago, Marc Zeitlin said:

    The good thing for Nate is that he only needs to find ONE person willing to pay the price.

    Yep, and just like you want your neighbor's house to sell for a bajillion dollars, the same goes for good used airplanes IMO.

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