s35pilot

Hat, I agree that if the idle speed is set properly and the aircraft attitude is maintained with a high angle of attack that will help. Today I measures the nylaflow tubing swell from no pressure (0.166 in) to (0.204) under max pedal pressure. I am going to switch to a combo of nyloseal and stainless steel after oshkosh. Just didn't wantg to modify it just before a long trip. Just my 2 cents....

Hi, I've learned a lot about my brakes in a short period of time... Thanks to Rob Grove. I would recommend Grove and any of their products based on the know how and honesty they exhibited. I'll try to put down what I've learned. Excuse me if it's not perfect but I'll do the best I can. There are really a couple of primary issues around brake performance. One parameter is the ability to absorb energy until brake fade occurs. Brake fad is caused by the binder melting and the friction between lining and disc decreasing significantly. Metal linings help with this and allow the brake system to continue to function at higher temperatures....Thus absorbing more energy. Heavier discs also hold more heat so increase energy capacity. Rob's opinion was that metallic linings are probably not a good idea on a plane with glass gear legs. The other parameter is the maximum braking force available. In my case I've never had any issues around brake fade. I just wanted to have the ability to stop quicker...(greater brake force). Linings apparently don't have a big effect on the friction coefficient between brake and disc. I really need more force on the brake linings. The brake force is proportional to the normal force on the lining times the friction coefficient. Since I can't do much about the friction coefficient of the lining it looks like I might need to work on the normal force pressing the lining against the disc. This normal force is the brake fluid pressure times the piston surface area. My brakes have the 2 inch piston so I've pretty much maxed out that parameter. I need to work on my brake pressure. When I built my plane I made the lever arm on the brake master easily adjustable and set it to something that seemed "about right". My brakes work good but not as good as I thought they should. The standard for the brake pressure is 400 to 500 psi at the caliper with 100 lb force on the pedal. That's my goal. My brakes are a little spongy, but I think that it is due to the nylon brake lines swelling while under pressure. No easy way to fix that.... So that is what I've learned so far...... Kindest regards.....Tim

Hi, I've also posted this on the c-a list but since some may not be on that list I posting this here also. I presently have the Cleveland 199-152 brakes. They are ok but I would like a little better braking action. I've done some looking and it looks like my options are as follows: Cleveland makes an upgrade kit (199-196) that converts the existing 199-152 brakes from organic linings to metalic. The piston gets changed so that an insulator can be added between the baking plate and the piston to prevent heat transfer. No one I can find has these kits in stock and they cost about $175. It should take the brake energy from 192,000 ft-lb to 289,000 ft lb. The Cleveland technical rep said it would be a noticable difference. The other option is the 5 inch Grove Ultra High Performance which is a dual piston caliper with organic linings. The disc is listed as their thickest (for heat absorbtion). They list their energy capacity as 246,715 joules which I think is 181983 ft lb. It appears that the Grove has less energy rating than the Cleveland with the upgrade installed. Has anyone actually done this upgrade to the 199-152 using metalic linings? What was your experience? Is anyone using metalic linings? It is possible to just change to metalic linings but it would probably heat the piston and fluid. Is anyone using the Ultra high performance Grove 57-1 brakes? My gut feeling is that (despite the published numbers) more pistons mean better braking and heavier disks mean less fade. Experience or thoughts? Has anyone converted to the Grove form the Clevelands? Do I have to make any modifications to the strut, etc? Or is it just a bolt on conversion? Thanks in advance

I'm preparing for Oshkosh and was trying to put together my things to do while there. The Cozy Forum is 8/1 1-2:15 pm. What other canard or good homebuilding events are going on and when/where? Is there a central states hot dog roast? There is always the hombulders dinner, etc... There was a very nice get together by Blue Mountain Avionics last year. The cookout at the seaplane base is usually something special. Don't forget the SFQ flyin on Friday just prior to Oshkosh!!! I thought the forum would be a good place to compile the list. Besides I don't want to miss something really nice! Kindest regards.....Tim

Thanks, You saved me a pile of time! Tim:)

I recall a sketch of an aileron trim that uses a mac servo and a graphite circular spring. I've lost the link. Can someone point me to it? Thanks in advance

I vented the fuel pump on my cozy out the bottom at the lower flange. The purpose of this vent is in case the diaphram fails the raw gas will flow outside the aircraft not through the engine compartment and possibly creating a fire.

I constantly am asked at airshows how many Cozys are flying. Does any one know how many III's and IV's are flying?

Thanks, This gives me what I need. The only thing I'm not sure sbout is how to keep the doors from blowing open past 90 deg to the bottom skin. I guess the spring is stiff enough to keep the doors positioned properly. Thanks...Tim

Hi, I'm adding nose gear doors to my flying cozy. I want to use (benefit) from previous experience. I had some plans but dumb me lost them. I know they use doors closed by door springs and air flow to keep themopen. I'm also adding a spring loaded door for the the pivot. Any thought on this or tips appreciated. Any help appreciated, Thanks! Tim

I have the Lightspeed aviation ign and 1 mag. I also burn auto gas - no problems in 175 hrs. The hall effect module is the best way to go. Simple installation. I did have some initial probelms with the coax between the modules and coils. I made new ones of my own and no problems. It is also easy sytem to troubleshoot. A real plus. Tim Cozy N215TW