Jump to content

Schilder71

Members
  • Content Count

    5
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About Schilder71

  • Rank
    Working on Chapter 6.

Flying Information

  • Flying Status
    Piper Cherokee

Personal Information

  • Location (Public)
    Calabasas, CA
  • Occupation
    Engineer
  • Bio
    Airplanes (Real and R/C), Cars, Motorcycles, Bicycles, Kayaks

Project/Build Information

  • Plane
    Cozy Mark IV
  • Plans Number
    976
  • Chapter
    6

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/pages/schilder71/index.html
  1. So what's the final word on the location of F28? I've checked the archives and found that Nat posted replies that it should be 6.0 inches aft of F22 not 5.9. While the general consensus of builders have said to set it at 6.25 inches aft of F22 otherwise you won't have enough room for the canard. There can be some confusion if people are measuring from different points, F22 aft face to F28 aft face, F22 fwd face to F28 aft face, etc. Please let me know what distance from F22 you set F28 and how you measured that distance. Also if that distance resulted in adequate space for the canard. Thanks David Schilder Plans #976 Chapter 6. http://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/pages/schilder71/index.html
  2. I received some varied replies from the Cozy email list but tend to agree with you Mike which is also echoed by Nat. It appears that each builder has their own tolerance for how much micro they like to sand/grind off. But I believe a little bit of micro is tolerable since a flox corner is one where maximum strength is not required, as specified in chapter 3. I also believe that the corner will be stronger if all the glass is intact even if a thin film of micro is left between the glass and flox. So my main objective will be to keep the glass intact and remove as much micro as possible without killing myself. Carl Denk recommended carbide cutters for the Dremel which I'll give a try. See the attached replies below. Dear Dave, See below: do you have > to sand, or grind with the Dremel in my case, down through the micro to get > to the glass Only need to remove any loose foam and micro. or is sanding off the foam and smoothing out the micro > adequate? Yes. In all cases you should use good judgement. Best regards, Nat > Carl Denk wrote: Yes, the micro should (must) be removed. I usually use a 1/8" dia. carbide cutter in the dremel with a very light touch and strokes parallel to the glass surface, a sweeping arc with center say 8" above end of piece, taking off a little at a time. Actually it goes fairly quick. Usually I take the foam out with the cutter also.
  3. Seems like there's a newbie generation of builders (including myself) with those early chapter questions. I searched the archives and couldn't really find the answer I was looking for. When preparing the edge for a floxed corner, (I'm working on the front seatback) after you've cut away the triangular cross-section of foam, the instructions say to rough up the glass edge so that the flox will adhere to it. My question is, do you have to sand, or grind with the Dremel in my case, down through the micro to get to the glass or is sanding off the foam and smoothing out the micro adequate? Because I've been grinding off all the micro which gets pretty touchy right at the edge of the glass becoming very thin. If it's just a matter of technique and being careful not to sand away the glass I'll have to work on that, but if you don't really need to sand away all that micro to get a good bond then that would be a lot easier and save time. Thanks, Dave #976
  4. I think I may have answered my own question, I did a more thorough search of the Cozy archives and found a post from Doug Shepherd. He believed the contamination was from assembly grease but it never caused a problem. Date: Feb 27, 2000 5:32 PM From: Doug Shepherd <DougSheph@home.com> Subject: COZY: Stuff in epoxy/Michael Engineering pump I'm also using the MGS 285 epoxy, and the Michael Engineering variable epoxy pump. I also noticed some minor traces of contamination when the pump was new; the instructions said that this was a lubricant used to grease the seals and the small amounts that get into the epoxy won't cause any problems. I've been using the pump for a year now and notice the black stuff only occasionally now. The pump doesn't leak, bind or otherwise misbehave (as long as I use it frequently enough to keep it limber, anyhow), and I've never rebuilt it or had to replace any of the seals, so I wouldn't worry about the seals deteriorating. I love my Michael Engineering pump, and I recommend it highly, but I have one word of warning about it: be careful not to put any sideways pressure on the reservoirs, either when you're filling it or when you shut the door of your oven. They're not supported very well and they crack easily, as I found out the hard way. That resin's expensive, and there's no point wasting it on the floor of the garage. Doug Shepherd
  5. I put resin and hardener (MGS 285) in my new Adjustable Sticky Stuff Dispenser (Model SS-ADJ) for the first time and I'm getting some black clouds of contamination, primarily out of the resin side. I called Michael Engineering LTD. and Rob there told me that what I was seeing was some fine particles of aluminum coming from the pump body bore and that it should not have any affect on the epoxy curing or strength. I thought someone else mentioned something like this before but I couldn't find anything in the Cozy Builder archives. Anyone else come across this phenomena? Do you think this is a problem?
×
×
  • Create New...