aviator_edb

I am selling some tools and pieces from my Cozy MkIV project. If you are interested please contact me offline at aviator 'at' mindspring 'dot' com Epoxy pump. This is the adjustable ratio pump from AS&S. It was used with MGS epoxy but has been completely cleaned and rebuilt using the rebuild kit from AS&S. Asking, 175.00 Eureka CNC Jig Package. This is the complete jig packge from Cozy MkIV wings, wingflets and canards. It is brand new and still in original box. Asking, 400.00 Eureka CNC Cozy MkIV Cores Complete cnc cut foam for wings, winglets and canard. New, still in original shipping boxes. Asking 2,100.00 Prices do not include shipping! I live north of Atlanta, GA if you're interested in buying and picking up in person.

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YAY! Welcome back everyone.

Thanks for the help everyone. The foam is definately PVC and not urethane. It looks like my original foam was the wrong foam and the new stuff if H100. Thanks for the pics Rick.

OK, so I decided to redo the LG bulkheads that I screwed up. This necessitated ordering a new sheet of 1/4" H100 from Aircraft Sruce. I got the foam today and not I am in a quandry. The foam I received it the right size but it is VERY different from the foam I originally had. I old foam had a much more 'open' appearance, closer to what H45 looks like. The new stuff is much smoother appearing closer to the 18lb last a foam (but not as 'heavy') Both foams are tan but the new stuff is much denser than the original stuff and I am wondering if the original stuff was not the correct foam. How can I be sure if the original foam was wrong or if I received the wrong foam the second time instead?

Yah, I'm doing it over. I had a piece of sandwhich that was trimmed off the layup in question and I tried to pull the glass up. Yah, time for a do-over. I ordered a new sheet of foam last night. Bummer. Serves me right for doinga layup in a crappy mood.

I need to redo one side of one of the forward LG bulkhead. I maanged to layup the BID with a serious curve in teh orientation fo the fibers plus there are a couple of quarter sizes bubbles. I was planning to completely redo this part but I've been reading about people reheating a layup after its cured and peeling it up? Is this really possible or would it be easier to just redo the piece (which means buying more foam) or is pulling up the glass a viable option?

Well, it was bound to happen. I've been doing pretty well with my work over the past few weeks but last sunday I screwed up. I was in kind of a crappy mood and decided to go work in the garage. Long story short, I rushed a layup and ended up with large bubbles and the BID fibers look like I was working with fisheye lenses on. Some of the bubbles are the size of a quarter. It's the upper part of the forward LG bulkhead. I could repair the bubbles but the fibers are so out of whack I decided I'd better redo this piece and do it right. Plus it's pennance for being a dummy. :mad: :mad:

I'm about to start on the permanent firewall pieces and was wondering about the blind screw installs. I've read a lot of different solutions to the turning problem and was wondering how many folks went with Click-Bonds instead? They seem like a cleaner and easier solution than some of the Rube Goldberg ideas I've read about (no offense). If I decide to go with click bonds would I mount them on the outside or would I mount them through the firewall?

Thanks guys. I took Marc's advice and sanded the harpoints flush. Theyh came out nicely. I completed the first of the layups today and will wrap then up tomorrow.

Well, so far I've made really good progress this weekend. I only need to do the 2xBID on the viertical ribs of the IP and glass the front/back faces of the three LG bulkheads. I built up my LG hardpoints yesterday. 22 plies BID and using scrap 1/4" foam as spacers applied a caul plate and weight. The peice came out great except for one minor spot where the thickness is sligtly more than 1/4". Actually it's just less than 1/16" thicker. No much but what this has done though it created a slight ridge betwen the glass and bulkhead foam. I was planning on using flox to smooth the transition over the ridge. Anybody find any problem with that? If so, what would you recommend I do? Thanks Ed Andover, MA

Hey fellas, I'm off for the next few days and despite the buttnumbingly cold weather in New England I'll be working in the shop. Next up is the landing gear bulkheads. I was wondering if anyone remembers about how long the 22 ply (+/- to get 0.25") layup took then. I'm trying to plan around some thing so I can wrap up chapter 4 over the weekend and the hardpoint layup seems like it's going to be the biggest single consumer of my time.

Buffalo rib roast. Mmmmm.

I've been really picking up steam on chapter 4 and only have the front side of the IP, the landing gear bulkheads and firewall to do. I have a new question. On some of the layups, specifically f-22, 28 and the IP, I had a helluva time keeping excess expoxy from running off and then under the foam. For F-22 and 28 there was only a bit and I easily sanded it off but on the IP I've got a spot that's about 9 sq. in. Do I really need to get that off or can I just rough it properly with 30grit and glass over it? as usual, thanks for any input.

yah, I'm still working on my timing for doing knife trimming..

I wanted to thank everyone for the tips. I just got done cleaning up after finishing the font side layup on f-22. I did the aft face /doubler on friday. The 9 ply UNI/BID layup on the sides was a lot fun. I did the wet out on hd aluminum foil, rough trimmed then laid the whole thing in place carefully. Wash, rinse then repeat one more time and I was done. I got smart a bought a fresh blade for my rotary cutter and it made cutting out the correct shape from the layup super easy. The real fun will be cutting off the excess once the cure is done. I'll be tackling that next weekend. Than goodness for the Fien multimaster.

I'm glad I made mentioned of the micro and doubler. Yes, Micro the doubler before pressing into the glass. Thanks Marc.

I'm getting ready to glass F-22 and the doubler tonight and have a quick question. The plans state 'While F-22 is still wet, press the doubler in place, micro the aft face of the double and glass with 2 plies...'' First question, should I leave the area where the doubler goes slightly 'wet' with epoxy or remove excess as normal before pressing the doubler into place? Second, how much weight shoudl I be using here? I figure the weight does two things; one, it keeps the part flat and two, it ensures the foam from the double and glass/exposy on f-22 bond well. (I know, there is NO micro between F-22 and doubler) thanks

Wanted to let folks know. Thanks for all the comments. I got some dual with another cozybuilding in New England and it was a HUGE help. My basic problem boiled down to my wet out procedure and going to fast. After the dual, I went home and tackled F-28 and that went great. The part came out looking really good. I am moving on....

I ordered chapters 4-8 in September and am not through chapter four yet. Its really hard to guage what to get based on time since everyone builds at different speeds. 4-8 will take you through a big chunk of the canoe. I did slightly mod my order by going withg the full 100 yd roll of bid and uni. AS&S had a small discount for that.

AS&S is 100 yds/roll. I think Wicks is 125 yds/roll. Be prepared, 100 yards of fiberglass cloth is f'ing heavy. Also, I found a damn hole in my bid that went about 10 yds deep. Luckily I was able to utilize most of that anyway but it did kind of irk me.

Dave, I appreciate your comments on the excess epoxy. I was focusing on figuring out bubbles and not on the excess epoxy when I did this layup. I had left some areas intentionally wet to see what would happen. It turns out that with an overly wet or squeegied surface I still ended up with the same issue.

Yikes, No. No slurry on the glass. I should've re-read my last post. Sorry about that.

I'm pretty sure it's not contamination but I won't rule it out. It would have to be practically snowing crud in the workshop. I'm pretty good about keeping bugs, spiderwebs, etc cleaned up as well. My shop heater blows over the worktable so I'ts possible that's moving somethig around. I'll redirect the output so it's blowing off the table inseat of over. Wont hurt to eliminate another possiblity. I think I do another practice piece where I slurry and wet out the glass and then peel ply 1/2 of the layup. Then look closely at the difference. thanks

I think TMann's idea is a good one to use on another practice piece. If I DON'T get the dark spots then it's a good bet that they issue IS my slurry setup or somethign I'm doing to upset the slurry during wetout. If I still get the spots then it's something else.