Jerry Schneider

Good idea! That way , you save on the cheese AND crust! Why would you want to be so mean to peanut butter???

Krisssy, I think the scale is MUCH more betta than the pump.

When donning the right, use a mirror.

I ruminated quite a bit over this subject when I was in the finishing stage. Although many people have used this technique, I just didn't like the idea of possibly messing up the chemical/mechanical properties of the micro. My technique came down to this: 1) Mix micro to the consistency of thick peanut butter. 2) Smear a big glob/bead on with the heel of my gloved hand. 3) Heat an appropriately sized drywall taping knife with a MAP gas torch and spread micro with firm pressure to eliminate bubbles. 4) Only do 2 strokes over the micro . A third stroke will tend to make the micro lift up behind the blade. You can't put on too much.... Only too little. Then, you'll have to re-apply and get caught in the vicious fill/sand, fill/sand cycle, because as the micro cures, it develops a "hardshell" on itself, making it a pain to re-do. Do your best to fill once, and sand once. You'll be amazed at how easy the micro spreads and resists peeling off with a hot blade!

Haven't used it, but I heard somewhere it wasn't the easiest stuff to slide down on. I'm getting ready to do my upholstery with the synthetic leather from CH Draw. They make a product that has good "rub test" numbers (durability) and doesn't mind water. Now... If I could only fine someone who doesn't want $200 per seat to sew the up.

Here's one.It's Ken Laundrie's plane. (He states he uses the cup holders all the time.) I've copied the heck out of his installation, and am in the process of making the throttle/mixture brackets. I got cables from https://shop.tuthill.com/Cablecraft/ Models: Throttle Friction Lock 565-555 and Mixture Control 565-550-B Yeah Cupholders!!!!

Sorry my site doesn't go into better detail. I have the CG strakes. I made the skins in one piece, (I got the foam from a boat supply store.) I glassed the entire under-side of the top skins first. The dip/gap that forms at the CG Strakes is no big deal because it's a dry area. Just make sure the foam/glass is right at the wet area of R-33 (or is it R-38? I'm going from memory here.) You can easily fix those areas later. After you glass the bottom side of the top skin, (and it has cured.), place the skin, mark the ribs with a pen, and put box tape to the places where the ribs ride. Epoxy wide peel ply to the box tape, (this makes the top skins pop off the flanges easily.). Then place the skin on, weight it down, layup the t-flanges, and let cure. Pop the skins off, remove the peel-ply and tape, and you're good to go. Put the bottom skins on. Then the top skins. HTH

Tampa is just around the corner from Houston. But if you want to wimp out.... It's O.K..

Dang!I had hoped it would be just that simple.

Whew! I used Jeffco as well, and was putting off fueling for fear my tanks would get "leprosy" too. Your discovery makes sense. Thanks for posting it. (Sigh of relief)

The Proxxon Industrial Drill/Grinder. Zero to 20,000 rpm variable grinder. German engineering at some of it's best. You try this, you'll start thinking "Dremel" is a foreign word meaning "crap". About $114, but mine's lasted me 6 years. I've replaced the main bearing once at a cost of $10. http://tinyurl.com/67njbl

I'd bet money the strakes tend to lock in the main spar to minimize twisting. Therefore, I would do my best to work around the baffles/ribs. (Unless they are different in a Velocity than a Cozy.)

Actually, I was thinking of installing "industrial strength" Silly String dispensers.

No website I could find. Attached is a flyer Gary sent me a couple of days ago regarding the pods. I had to delete one older picture to meet this site's file size limitsBaggage Pods2.doc

I use MGS. You don't say what epoxy you're using. As far as MGS goes: The resin? Yes. The hardener? Not unless you're sure the plastic is not permeable to CO2. Some plastics let it through, and it will spoil your hardener. Better to store it in the can it came in. I've been pouring from the can for years. I have a dispensing system for the resin, so I set the cup on the scale, zero the scale, pour the hardner first, (as it's difficult to get the exact amount poured), check the excel spreadsheet on the wall to find the requisite amount of resin to dispense, and open the resin valve untill the number is right. Viola'

Yep. Roger that.

I WAS going to camp. Epoxy Lady chickened out, so here I am.

To whom it may concern: If have a room reserved, and you're not going to be able to attend, I'd be happy to take it off your hands. Jerry

Did I mention That was ONE WAY!!.... With the Cozy Girrrls in tow? (The horror.... The horror....)

The pizza? I've had worse. It's the company that counts..... And the beer. (Ahhh yes. I remember it well. My first RR. Finding out it was a dry county. AND DRIVING 31 MILES FOR BEER!!!! Still a record in my personal log.) Those were the days......

Chris, Did you determine the cause of the Jeffco adhesion problem you had? Sorry if I missed it.

This was a new on on me as well. I won't give it a second thought. Thanks for the comebacks!

Does anyone know about any requirement for a FAR25.853 burn certificate for upholstery in our planes? I asked for a quote from a fabric company, and they gave me a quote and told me an additional $50 to the FAA for the certificate. I want the properties, but not the fee.... My guess is it's not required in our planes. Inquiring minds want to know......

How 'bout this? (I don't shave my legs quite that close. )

The hub post is hollow. Instead of screwing into the hub, (old-style), the fastener goes thru the hub to a lever which has a cam latch on it, which draws a fastener tight against the hub of the tool from the other side.