Jump to content
bmckinney10

My VariEze - N40LC

Recommended Posts

9 hours ago, bmckinney10 said:

The large cable starts at the battery in the nose, runs to the push-pull 40A breaker,  then to a start solenoid located behind the panel, then runs to the starter in the back

It must be working for you but I see that a Skytech can draw 80-120A so I am puzzled why a 40A breaker doesn't pop.  P. 2-5 here   https://skytec.aero/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/ES1033-Rev.-.pdf


-Kent
Cozy IV N13AM-750 hrs, Long-EZ-85 hrs and sold

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think you will find that the wires running from the panel to your headset will be a big PIA.

I suggest that you get a catalog from B & C and look through it.   I have a starter solenoid from them as well as fuses that light up if they are "blown".

Also a master solenoid from them.   When I first tried to start the engine, the voltage dropped too low to start it and that was with all 4 cylinders primed;  I

switched to B & C solenoids and took the master out of the path to the starter (Yes, I have a mechanical way to cut off the current if the starter solenoid hangs).  

Now the engine starts very quickly even when very cold.

I have almost everything that they sell.   I consider their equipment very superior to what you can get at Aircraft Spruce or Wicks.

Bruce Hughes

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You said " existing breakers for the radio, elt,

Can you confirm that?

You cannot legally (by the FAA) run an ELT except as it was EXACTLY like the original design.   My ELT has 8 batteries.   Those must be from the same manufacturer and the same model of battery.   Was your ELT designed to work on your battery by a breaker ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am having no issues with the Skytec starter, nor the starter contractor setup.  The engine kicks over with the first or second blade.    I've had a Skytec on my Cherokee for 10 years with no issues.

ELT was a mis-type, I meant ADSB.  I was researching ELT's earlier and that was on my mind.

As far as headset jacks, I guess we will see.  I sat in it for several hours today while installing the radio and tried it out with my headphones on.  I am not concerned at this point, I didn't notice anything that would cause me to dislike it.  Plus, the wires only had to be 16" long, so easy install.

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Work on N40LC continues:

I found a defective wire in one of the original mag harnesses, and decided to replace both and all the plugs.  Engine now starts quick and is very smooth.

I have the B&C 12 amp PM alternator.  I was not getting the DC power from the regulator.  The alternator is putting out AC power, varying with the engine RPM.  The regulator is dead.  It is a potted metal box with 4 wires.  2 for the AC input and 2 for the DC output.  It appears to be a simple full-wave rectifier, but one of the legs must be out.  There was no external filter capacitor or O/V circuit as B&C provides now.  I will order these replacements from B&C.

I found/installed a replacement canopy keylock.  The original was missing the key and a replacement lock ($4) was cheaper than getting a locksmith to redo the tumbler to make new keys.  The original builder had a unique canopy locking mechanism that doesn't require a small door in the fuselage.  I will post a picture soon.

I am installing new canopy-latched & throttle position switches.  The landing gear position switch is still in good condition.  I pulled all the mounting parts and cleaned/painted them.  I also have a new 1/2" flashing LED warning indicator for the panel.

I am leaning towards not replacing the existing push-pull nose gear mechanism.  It is simple and has over 560+ hours of error-free operation.  As long as I keep my weight in check and my thighs from growing, it shouldn't be an issue for comfort.

I did get an oil filter adapter kit for the O-200, but have not installed yet.  I changed the oil once, maintaining just the original oil screen setup.   It is a pain to remove the sensor, screen, etc.  I am leaning towards installing it.

I need to replace the tachometer.  I can't find a part or model number that matches, but it appears to be a Westach of some type.  It was driven directly off of a mag lead.  Hoping to find a decent used replacement.

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/24/2020 at 7:53 PM, bmckinney10 said:

Some updates on N40LC...


 

Thought I would update my list from about 6 weeks ago.  Items with a * were completed since the last post.

Completed Work
- finished up the starter installation
- moved the breather tube to the other end of the engine
- pulled new mag wires when pulling the new starter cables
- cleaned up the wiring in the engine compartment
- removed the GNC-250XL
- installed a GTR-200B
- CNC/3D print new panel for new mag switches, starter breaker and start button, pilot headphone/mic jacks, USB charging ports (see pic below)
- rewired everything behind the panel
- changed oil/cleaned screen
- new air filter
- new quick connect on trim servo
- removed unused/old wiring
* new plugs & new mag harnesses
* new B&C regulator installed
* new canopy lock installed
* rewired canopy/throttle/gear safety switch circuits
* N-number decals installed
* Tempest oil filter adapter installed

Upcoming
- co-pilot headphone/mic. jack panel & mount (ran wires, just need to make a plate to hold the jacks)
- fix the skin crack/delamination below canard
- "EXPERIMENTAL" decal inside
- new canopy seal
- service wheels/brakes
- ELT
- ADS-B out
- replace Lord engine bushings
- re-balance ailerons & elevator
 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I removed the ailerons & hung them by the hinge to check the balance.  I didn't have a level with me, but by sight they are definitely tail heavy.  The previous owner repainted the plane, but never flew it.  I found an older post on here suggesting to a drills holes in the ends just behind the embedded leading edge rod and epoxy in lead rods.  That seems logical.  Any other suggestions?

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 hours ago, bmckinney10 said:

...but by sight they are definitely tail heavy.  The previous owner repainted the plane, but never flew it.  I found an older post on here suggesting to a drills holes in the ends just behind the embedded leading edge rod and epoxy in lead rods.  That seems logical.  Any other suggestions?

Sand all the paint and excess fill off and repaint it so that it balances correctly. Put the minimum amount of fill, primer and paint on, particularly on the bottom which never sees UV exposure - NEVER paint control surfaces over old paint without removing it. Only then, if the elevator is not in balance, add extra weight, and then only outboard.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Marc.  More work than I wanted to do, but better to be safe.

I need clarification on how to mark the aileron waterline to determine balance.  I attached a couple of images that were found in the manual.  The first is from the section that describes balancing, then second is from the section for installing the control hardware.  The waterline reference looks different in each.

Is the aileron waterline based on leveling the airframe, securing the trailing edges of the aileron and wing together, then marking a level line on the inboard side of the aileron?  

 

aileron_balance.jpg

aileron_install.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, bmckinney10 said:

I need clarification on how to mark the aileron waterline to determine balance... Is the aileron waterline based on leveling the airframe, securing the trailing edges of the aileron and wing together, then marking a level line on the inboard side of the aileron?

The balance pic you show is from page 7 of the aileron addendum. Look at page 5 - there are two templates that show WL's and external skins. You can use these to create an external level "jig" for determining the WL. In any case, if you balance the VE ailerons so that the top skin is closer to level than the bottom skin, you're good. And that's after ALL paint.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I attached the image you referenced.  It appears that the lower skin would be closer to level?  That seems to coincide with the "view J-J" from above when rigging the control arm to 90 deg. of the waterline.   I suppose the acceptable "or nose heavy" notation would come into play if the upper was closer to level.

waterline.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/8/2020 at 10:18 PM, bmckinney10 said:

Upcoming
- replace Lord engine bushings

Check out Fresno Air Parts for the best deal on purchasing those ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Ron Springer said:

Check out Fresno Air Parts for the best deal on purchasing those ...

Thanks for the reference!  Their entire kit is $50 less than just the rubber bushings from AS.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/13/2020 at 5:21 PM, bmckinney10 said:

Thanks for the reference!  Their entire kit is $50 less than just the rubber bushings from AS.

I received the "Lord" engine mount kit from Fresno.  It appears these may be aftermarket copies as they do not have the markings on them as the originals do.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Back to my ailerons.  Taking Marc's suggestion, and after several minutes of thought before I actually started sanding a perfectly painted aileron, I stripped away all of the paint layers (2) and the black primer layer from the entire bottom surface and the top surface behind the hinges.

 

aileron1.thumb.jpg.97b6edbb67529f99c58618de35de0423.jpg

The owner prior to me (not the original builder) had only painted the visible surfaces so the nose of the aileron was still in original paint.  My thought was to see how it would balance out, keeping some of the paint weight on the front.  Prior to sanding, the aileron weight was 3 lbs, 13.3 oz,  After the removal of the 2 paint layers and the primer, the weight dropped to 3 lbs, 8.1 oz.  

The aileron still balances slightly tail heavy.  A quick test required me to add 4oz. to the nose in this current sanded state to get it balanced.  My guess is that will increase by possible 2-3+ oz. after adding the primer and single layer of paint back on.  

aileron2.jpg.98315302d00da3fb56fd820f8668dd77.jpg

 

There was no excess filler on the top or bottom surfaces.  The total weight was underweight compard to many even with 2 layers of final paint.  I can only assume that this VE flew 570 hours with slightly tail-heavy ailerons.  The builder was very meticulous and the overall build quality is very good.  I am going to keep sifting through the CP's to understand if there is something I am missing for the balance procedure.  I created a solid template with a level attached based on the aileron build plans (see below) showing the level waterline that I hold along the top skin.   You can see in the picture above that even with all paint and primer removed on the entire lower surface, and all the top surface behind the hinge that it is still tail heavy.

TEMPLATE.jpg.43ba355d8e27c64781f68eb85ec80299.jpg

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Follow up from my earlier post regarding the crack/delam in the side below the canard...  I have repaired this area using the "epoxy fill from the bottom" method.  I drilled two small holes, one low and one high at opposite corners of the affected area (about 6" diameter) on the inside layer.  Slowly injected epoxy in the lower hole until it came out of the upper & plugged the holes.  A day later is it all solid, no flexing or hollow sounds. 

Getting close to schedule the condition inspection and get it back in the air.

On a side note, on a driving trip to California last month, I visited Marc Zeitlin in Tehachapi.  Learned a lot in the short time we spent with him (Thanks Marc!) .  Our drive was from Minnesota to Mojave, so we stopped along the way in Spanish Fork, UT and met Mike Patey and toured his shop and projects.  Incredible enthusiasm and workmanship.  Lastly, my son is working a summer internship at Scaled Composites, so he is enjoying all the exciting things that happen there.  I'm jealous.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by bmckinney10

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


The Canard Zone

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information