Jon Matcho 53 Posted October 15, 2014 The Quickie Q2 is a side-by-side canard-type aircraft. Major differences from the other Rutan EZs are: Tractor (vs. pusher) propeller The Quickie canard provides the majority of the lift The nose gear does not retract in the tri-gear configuration A tail-dragger configuration is also an option VariEze-like performance I came upon an opportunity to acquire an unstarted Q2 kit that I could not resist. I will explain my plans for all of this (my Cozy, the Tri-Q, and this Q2 kit) in the near future as I'm still working through some of it. Until then, here's a picture of me "flying" the Q2. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
James Bailey 4 Posted October 15, 2014 Why cool Jon, I can't wait to see your build progress and when you get to your first actual in the pattern flight :-) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon Matcho 53 Posted October 15, 2014 Why cool Jon, I assume you meant "way", but at first I saw that as "Why Jon, why?" Thanks, I aim to have my other plane flying next year. More to come... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AVI 23 Posted October 16, 2014 What? Test flight with no parachute? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
James Bailey 4 Posted October 16, 2014 Yep..typo...should have been way cool Looks like it was a factory new package,..what a find Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon Matcho 53 Posted October 16, 2014 Yes, it does look like a factory crate, but credit goes to the seller on this deal. He and I were able to come to an arrangement that he would bead-blast all the metal parts, make a crate, and drop off at a freight company for delivery. After weeks of back and forth with emails and pictures, I have a like-new kit (in New Jersey) without ever having gone to where it was (Texas). Attached is a pic showing how you can turn rather old metal into beautiful like-new metal parts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
James Bailey 4 Posted October 16, 2014 Major difference between the old hardware look and the cleaned up hardware...did he paint it with something after bead blasting Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon Matcho 53 Posted October 16, 2014 He just coated it with an oil for the short term. My first order of business with the aluminum is to clean and prep for a chromate conversion coating that a friend is helping me with. Not sure what I'm going to do with the steel yet though. I'm sensing a recommendation... please Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quickieaircraft 0 Posted October 17, 2014 Those must be two different parts. The hole is bigger on the shiny scratched one. I have heard good and bad things about shot peening (bead blasting). It creates a surface layer than has compressive stresses and resists crack propagation (good), but I seem to recall that bead blasting can also hide cracks in aluminum because it can "smoosh" the crack closed (bad). Some more info in http://www.metalimprovement.com//premium/PDF/greenbook_v9/english/MIC%20Green%20Book%20-%209th%20edition%20-%20Complete%20Book.pdf -Emron Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kent Ashton 126 Posted October 17, 2014 There is a difference between shot peening and bead blasting. BB is more of a cleaning process. SP changes the surface of the alloy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kent Ashton 126 Posted October 17, 2014 Not sure what I'm going to do with the steel yet though. ) An epoxy primer and catalyzed topcoat of your choice will hold up well. With an epoxy primer, even a rattle-can topcoat will do well. Powder-coat if you want a more chip-resistant finish. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon Matcho 53 Posted October 18, 2014 Emron! I thought the same things regarding surface destruction, cracking, etc., but after more research I came to the conclusion that glass bead blasting was non-destructive, especially when done so the beads do not disintegrate. Attached is a picture of the 'before' piece (the 2nd piece was only shown for contrast, and was done later). Even with those other arguments until the bead blasting was offered I was close to moving forward with a mild abrasive blasting. I suspect this is one of those areas we builders talk and worry about that really isn't a concern -- especially when doing a top coat of some sort on the parts. I could be wrong. Kent, would you still recommend an epoxy paint over a chromate conversion coating assuming no difference in price (I have a good deal lined up)? I also thought the welds on all the pieces were very good FWIW. Thanks for the feedback, appreciated! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kent Ashton 126 Posted October 18, 2014 (edited) How did you finish the nice-looking ones? I have only used chromate conversion (Alodine) on aluminum pieces. Hang them in a jar of Alodine for a few minutes. For steel, I see that a chromate conversion can be used over zinc plating http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromate_conversion_coating but I don't think it does very much on bare steel. Your pieces, being a little chipped up, I would scotchbrite, sand, or wirewheel them to remove rust, epoxy-prime, and paint. That's about the easiest thing to do. Edited October 18, 2014 by kent ashton Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon Matcho 53 Posted October 18, 2014 There's no finish on the nice-looking parts yet. They're just coated with an oil for now, which I'll wash off before treating. All of the parts are now nice-looking (bead blasted). Thanks for the tips! I don't want to go crazy, just prevent oxidation... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
