My Quickie Q2 Project

[Jon Matcho]

The Quickie Q2 is a side-by-side canard-type aircraft.  Major differences from the other Rutan EZs are:

• Tractor (vs. pusher) propeller
• The Quickie canard provides the majority of the lift
• The nose gear does not retract in the tri-gear configuration
• A tail-dragger configuration is also an option
• VariEze-like performance

I came upon an opportunity to acquire an unstarted Q2 kit that I could not resist.

I will explain my plans for all of this (my Cozy, the Tri-Q, and this Q2 kit) in the near future as I'm still working through some of it.  Until then, here's a picture of me "flying" the Q2.

[James Bailey]

Why cool Jon,

I can't wait to see your build progress and when you get to your first actual in the pattern flight 🙂

[Jon Matcho]

On 10/15/2014 at 10:09 AM, James Bailey said:

Why cool Jon,

I assume you meant "way", but at first I saw that as "Why Jon, why?"     

Thanks, I aim to have my other plane flying next year.  More to come...

[AVI]

What? Test flight with no parachute?

[James Bailey]

Yep..typo...should have been way cool

Looks like it was a factory new package,..what a find

[Jon Matcho]

Yes, it does look like a factory crate, but credit goes to the seller on this deal.  He and I were able to come to an arrangement that he would bead-blast all the metal parts, make a crate, and drop off at a freight company for delivery.  After weeks of back and forth with emails and pictures, I have a like-new kit (in New Jersey) without ever having gone to where it was (Texas).

Attached is a pic showing how you can turn rather old metal into beautiful like-new metal parts.

[James Bailey]

Major difference between the old hardware look and the cleaned up hardware...did he paint it with something after bead blasting

[Jon Matcho]

He just coated it with an oil for the short term.  My first order of business with the aluminum is to clean and prep for a chromate conversion coating that a friend is helping me with.

Not sure what I'm going to do with the steel yet though.

I'm sensing a recommendation... please 

[quickieaircraft]

Those must be two different parts.  The hole is bigger on the shiny scratched one.  

I have heard good and bad things about shot peening (bead blasting).  It creates a surface layer than has compressive stresses and resists crack propagation (good), but I seem to recall that bead blasting can also hide cracks in aluminum because it can "smoosh" the crack closed (bad). 

Some more info in http://www.metalimprovement.com//premium/PDF/greenbook_v9/english/MIC%20Green%20Book%20-%209th%20edition%20-%20Complete%20Book.pdf

-Emron

[Kent Ashton]

There is a difference between shot peening and bead blasting. BB is more of a cleaning process. SP changes the surface of the alloy.

[Kent Ashton]

Not sure what I'm going to do with the steel yet though. )

An epoxy primer and catalyzed topcoat of your choice will hold up well. With an epoxy primer, even a rattle-can topcoat will do well. Powder-coat if you want a more chip-resistant finish.

[Jon Matcho]

Emron!    

I thought the same things regarding surface destruction, cracking, etc., but after more research I came to the conclusion that glass bead blasting was non-destructive, especially when done so the beads do not disintegrate.  Attached is a picture of the 'before' piece (the 2nd piece was only shown for contrast, and was done later).  

Even with those other arguments until the bead blasting was offered I was close to moving forward with a mild abrasive blasting.  I suspect this is one of those areas we builders talk and worry about that really isn't a concern -- especially when doing a top coat of some sort on the parts.  I could be wrong.

Kent, would you still recommend an epoxy paint over a chromate conversion coating assuming no difference in price (I have a good deal lined up)?  

I also thought the welds on all the pieces were very good FWIW.  Thanks for the feedback, appreciated!

[Kent Ashton]

How did you finish the nice-looking ones?

I have only used chromate conversion (Alodine) on aluminum pieces.  Hang them in a jar of Alodine for a few minutes.

For steel, I see that a chromate conversion can be used over zinc plating   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromate_conversion_coating  but I don't think it does very much on bare steel.  Your pieces, being a little chipped up, I would scotchbrite, sand, or wirewheel them to remove rust, epoxy-prime, and paint.  That's about the easiest thing to do.

[Jon Matcho]

There's no finish on the nice-looking parts yet. They're just coated with an oil for now, which I'll wash off before treating. All of the parts are now nice-looking (bead blasted).

Thanks for the tips! I don't want to go crazy, just prevent oxidation...

[Peter Gilbertson]

Hi Jon, are you still thinking about selling the Q200

[Jon Matcho]

On 9/17/2020 at 1:29 PM, Peter Gilbertson said:

Hi Jon, are you still thinking about selling the Q200

I am not selling my Tri-Q200 project, but yes, I do want to sell my unstarted Q2 kit.

I'm not doing the Q2 kit because I have since acquired this separate Tri-Q200 project/refurb shown in this thread. Once that's flying I will move back to my Cozy IV project.

[Anthony P]

Jon, I sent a PM to you regarding your Q2 kit.

[Canard Fever]

This kit still available for sale?

[Jon Matcho]

For those interested, this pristine kit will soon be for sale and ready to ship. I need to inventory the parts, take current pictures, price, and crate for transportation.

It does not have the LS1 carbon spar, but you can build a fiberglass equivalent known as the “Waddelow canard” (named after the first person that took that route).

I have a finished Tri-Q200 I am restoring, and then a Cozy Mark IV to complete. I’d keep it as another project if I had the space, but I no longer want to have space for 3rd priority items. 🙂

[Anthony P]

I contacted you regarding this kit nearly a year ago now.

I'm still interested.

I have a Q2 now that I'm restoring.  A little paint/faring work, but mainly interior and panel.

Please keep me informed.

[Crspy]

Looks like a fun project - hate to think what the shipping to Aus would be though