steve Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 you could drop buy your local airport and but an bolts at a good price thud field (puyalup), Spencer avi. Quote Steve M. Parkins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 Metal Superstore in Lakewood (I think) should have Aluminum and 4130. Probably not cheap but available. If they don't have it they can send you in the right direction. QUOTE] 10.00 wicks,100.00 MS....nope try the store next to the old boeing surplus(kent) good price but still 2 times the price of ACSS plue you pay a 25.00 cut charge for under 12-24 feet if they dont have scrape Quote Steve M. Parkins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfryer Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 The metals supplier I discovered is "Metal Supermarkets". They are located in Kent, Lakewood and Portland. www.metalsupermarkets.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMann Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 The metals supplier I discovered is "Metal Supermarkets". Yes ... a great source! I bought all of the long lengths of extruded aluminum from them.Unfortunately our location closed a few months back. Quote T Mann - Loooong-EZ/20B Infinity R/G Chpts 18 Velocity/RG N951TM Mann's Airplane Factory We add rocket's to everything! 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 9, 10, 14, 19, 20 Done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatherder Posted December 10, 2009 Author Share Posted December 10, 2009 Yes - it was Metal Supermarket. I had it wrong. I was after some 316 stainless a while back and talked to them. Also - Alaska Copper & Brass carries non-ferrous metals and probably has that stuff too. We buy alot of alum, stainless and some bronze thru them. Quote Marc Oppelt Olympia, WA http://picasaweb.google.com/oh.u8it2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfryer Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 Yes - it was Metal Supermarket. I had it wrong. I was after some 316 stainless a while back and talked to them. Also - Alaska Copper & Brass carries non-ferrous metals and probably has that stuff too. We buy alot of alum, stainless and some bronze thru them. My bro picked up the aluminium angle from Alaska copper and brass for my landing gear brackets. Later he returned to find some 2024 stock and they didn't carry it, perhaps there stock fluctuates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatherder Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 I just discovered that Fisheries Supply in Seattle sells Pro-Set epoxies. I have a commercial acct there which gives me a pretty good discount so it's $93/gal for 125 lo-viscosity resin, $74 for 135 med-viscosity (but they're backorderd on that), and $50 ea 229 med or 226 fast hardeners. You can blend these. The 135 is back-ordered but the 125 is on the shelf. On the shelf is good. Also - Just bought 3ea 48x96" sheets of 3lb Divinycell for $223+tax. Thats a good deal. Quote Marc Oppelt Olympia, WA http://picasaweb.google.com/oh.u8it2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynn Erickson Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 I just discovered that Fisheries Supply in Seattle sells Pro-Set epoxies. I have a commercial acct there which gives me a pretty good discount so it's $93/gal for 125 lo-viscosity resin, $74 for 135 med-viscosity (but they're backorderd on that), and $50 ea 229 med or 226 fast hardeners. You can blend these. The 135 is back-ordered but the 125 is on the shelf. On the shelf is good. Also - Just bought 3ea 48x96" sheets of 3lb Divinycell for $223+tax. Thats a good deal. If you are going to use 125 resin, stay away from the 229 hardener because it requires a post cure to get a complete cure. the 125/226 will room temperature cure. the 125/226 has a 3 hour gel time and you do not need any longer then that. Quote Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfryer Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 For a large layup 3 hours is not a lot of time at all. It took me 5 hours to complete my center section spar sheer web. I don't think it would be very fun to have to hurry a large layup like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynn Erickson Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 For a large layup 3 hours is not a lot of time at all. It took me 5 hours to complete my center section spar. I don't think it would be very fun to have to hurry a large layup like that.when you do large layups you mix it in small batches so a 3 hour gel time is more then enough. the original Safetypoxy used to build the cozy IV only had a 2 hour gel time and it worked fine. Quote Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfryer Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 when you do large layups you mix it in small batches so a 3 hour gel time is more then enough. the original Safetypoxy used to build the cozy IV only had a 2 hour gel time and it worked fine. I guess that makes sense. I usualy mix in small amounts as well, use it up in under 1/2 hour. I suppose what had me concerned is the time it takes to complete a large layup. My center section spar shear web took me over 5 hours to complete, what with phone ringing, santa and fire department stopping by, etc. But then you say "gel time", not "cure time". That there lies the fallicy of my origional comment. Marc, sounds like you are on to something with the local suppliers. I don't suppose you can russle up a cheap O-320 for me while your at it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatherder Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 I don't suppose you can russle up a cheap O-320 for me while your at it? Maybe. I saw some guy downtown trying to sell one out of the back of his van. He had some used stereo speakers too, and an old Hibachi. Lynn - thanks for the info on the glue. I do intend to post-cure...but if the 226 will give enough open time then I'll just use that. Martin - I watched that video you gave me the other day and noticed that when Burt and Mike were demonstrating the spar cap layup that they were NOT pulling all the little cross weaves out of the spar cap UNI. They just slapped it in there, wet it out and squeegeed it in. So...I wonder if you really need to bother with that? Oh yeah...thanks for the spar jig. I managed to get it home nice and dry. Quote Marc Oppelt Olympia, WA http://picasaweb.google.com/oh.u8it2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfryer Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 Burt and Mike were demonstrating the spar cap layup that they were NOT pulling all the little cross weaves out of the spar cap UNI. They just slapped it in there, wet it out and squeegeed it in. So...I wonder if you really need to bother with that? RAF used a few different techniques for spar cap layups, including the use of their uni cloth in the GU canard. At the time of the video, many techniques were still being perfected. I too was a little confused when I saw Burt and Mike laying up the spar cap with the cross weave. My understanding is that the spar cap material is designed to be used without the cross weave. The cross weave does not allow the uni fibers to lay as straight as they can be with the weave in place. If one examines the weave, it is very irregular and obviously only there to keep the roving in place until installation. The most latest RAF documentation (perhaps there is a CP article as well that I missed) that I can find is the Special performance canard (Roncz canard) instructions, that specifically mentions the removal of the "fine thread that is obviously not fiberglass" and the cross fibers. Perhaps there is a reason that fine thread is red. The procedure to remove the cross thread is not difficult and I cannot think of any reason to keep the cross fibers in place for spar cap layups. Spar jig: Good to know if found a new home, it would have been chopped up if you didn't take it. Be sure to measure everything again, I just want to make sure mine is the only plane flying crooked! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMann Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 when you do large layups you mix it in small batches so a 3 hour gel time is more then enough. the original Safetypoxy used to build the cozy IV only had a 2 hour gel time and it worked fine.I prefer the longer working times that are afforded by MGS. The reason is that I vacuum bag most everything and want as much working time as possible to remove any excess epoxy and air. At least that is what works best for me. Martin - I watched that video you gave me the other day and noticed that when Burt and Mike were demonstrating the spar cap layup that they were NOT pulling all the little cross weaves out of the spar cap UNI. They just slapped it in there, wet it out and squeegeed it in. So...I wonder if you really need to bother with that? . If you remove the cross thread, you can comb out the strands as you wet them out. Straight/aligned strand result in greater strength in the caps and minimize excess epoxy. Quote T Mann - Loooong-EZ/20B Infinity R/G Chpts 18 Velocity/RG N951TM Mann's Airplane Factory We add rocket's to everything! 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 9, 10, 14, 19, 20 Done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynn Erickson Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 Maybe. I saw some guy downtown trying to sell one out of the back of his van. He had some used stereo speakers too, and an old Hibachi. Lynn - thanks for the info on the glue. I do intend to post-cure...but if the 226 will give enough open time then I'll just use that. Martin - I watched that video you gave me the other day and noticed that when Burt and Mike were demonstrating the spar cap layup that they were NOT pulling all the little cross weaves out of the spar cap UNI. They just slapped it in there, wet it out and squeegeed it in. So...I wonder if you really need to bother with that? Oh yeah...thanks for the spar jig. I managed to get it home nice and dry. 135 resin can be used with the slow hardener without post cure the only spar cap that needs the thread removed per plans is the roncz canard. its very easy to remove, after wetting out each ply, you cut the thread in the middle of the length, grab the outboard end and pull each cut strand outboard. the opposite half of wet out layup will hold the ply in place while you pull out the strand. after it is pulled you squeeze it back down from the center, outboard in both directions. Quote Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatherder Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 after wetting out each ply, you cut the thread in the middle of the length, grab the outboard end and pull each cut strand outboard. the opposite half of wet out layup will hold the ply in place while you pull out the strand. after it is pulled you squeeze it back down from the center, outboard in both directions. Ok, well that sound easy enough. I had envisioned muddling around in there with sticky gloved hands trying to pick out these stupid little strings with my fingernails. Quote Marc Oppelt Olympia, WA http://picasaweb.google.com/oh.u8it2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatherder Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 FiberglassSupply.com has 6781 S-2 BID 50" on sale for $8.45/yd for 16+yds. Any thoughts on this material as an alternative to 7725? It is stronger in both directions. Quote Marc Oppelt Olympia, WA http://picasaweb.google.com/oh.u8it2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynn Erickson Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 FiberglassSupply.com has 6781 S-2 BID 50" on sale for $8.45/yd for 16+yds. Any thoughts on this material as an alternative to 7725? It is stronger in both directions. be very careful substituting clothes. there are many more thing to consider then it is stronger. its not is it stronger but how is it stronger that counts. there are many factors in choosing the right cloth and unless you are a composite engineer you should stick to the plans cloth. besides the 7725 is only $6.75 from ACS Quote Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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