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Long Term Engine Storage

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Hi Folks,

 

I'm still pretty far (years) on my build (on other "honey do this" projects right now) but I maybe able to get a new IO-360 lycoming engine at a substantial discount (almost free).

 

Can I store it say for 4 years without firing it? Other than physical damage, what kind of bad things could happen to it?

 

TIA,

Robert

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If you can keep it dry, internal surfaces oiled and in a dark place, it should be fine. Keep it at a constant temperature if possible to minimize condensation. I kept an engine in a desert hangar for two years with dehydrator spark plugs and a desiccant bag on the breather with no corrosion. The desiccant must be refreshed regularly. Rubber parts will of course age.

 

I am also looking for an O-360. Is this a unique deal or can you share info on it?

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If you can keep it dry, internal surfaces oiled and in a dark place, it should be fine. Keep it at a constant temperature if possible to minimize condensation. I kept an engine in a desert hangar for two years with dehydrator spark plugs and a desiccant bag on the breather with no corrosion. The desiccant must be refreshed regularly. Rubber parts will of course age.

 

I am also looking for an O-360. Is this a unique deal or can you share info on it?

It's sort of free that I don't have to dish out cash for it but I have to burn some midnight oil doing some programming for guy that just happen to have one laying around for a project he was going to do. It's been laying around in his warehouse for at least 6 mos now.

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It's sort of free that I don't have to dish out cash for it but I have to burn some midnight oil doing some programming for guy that just happen to have one laying around for a project he was going to do. It's been laying around in his warehouse for at least 6 mos now.

if the engine is properly preserved and store in a sealed plastic bag it can be stored for many years. if the bag is filled with nitrogen it could last even longer.

Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years

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... Can I store it say for 4 years without firing it? Other than physical damage, what kind of bad things could happen to it?

 

Dood, CA is the WORST place to store an aero engine. What you need is some high altitude place, like Colorado. Tell ya what I'll do for ya, and at no charge! ....

 

I know you Aero guys do things a bit differently, but keep is dry (rain, humidity, moisture), and the internals oil misted (Marvel Mystery Oil, or ???), and it'll stay in a ready to run state for a long time. Swop out the sump oil annually for a warm fuzzy.

 

Rick


Rick Hall; MK-IV plans #1477; cozy.zggtr.org

Build status: 1-7, bits of 8-9, 10, 14 done! Working on engine/prop/avionics.

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When I built my Longeze I found a 0235 about 2 1/2 years into the build. It was sitting at an FBO on a tire in a corner of the hanger it had just been removed from a grumman Yankee. I bought it on site trucked it home to my shop in Riverside Ca. I put dessicant plugs in it and changed them every year. After another 2 1/2 years I had the plane finished and did a top end on all the jugs and it ran for at least 600 hours that I knew of. It had 1920 on it when I bought it. The motor I have now is an 0360 with about 180 hours on it??? I bought it without a log book. (the price was cheaper than a core) I have it stored in my shop covered with plastic and the same dessicant plugs I used in the Longeze. I get it out every 3-4 months and turn it over and pump some oil around in it. The jugs look really good inside I cannot see the cam without taking it apart. I have heard that turning it upside down is better for the cam will keep it oiled better. I have not done this but am thinking about doing it. I still have a couple of years left before first flight. My climate here in Idaho is dry so I hope it will be allright. No Rick I dont need to store it in your shop:D STeve building on


Steve Harmon

Lovin Life in Idaho

Cozy IV Plans #1466 N232CZ

http://websites.expercraft.com/bigsteve/

Working on Chapter 19,21

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I stored an O-360 on an auto engine stand for two years in central CA with fog, wet hangar and high humidity etc. Covered with blankets, filled with oil, desiccant plugs changed every 4 months, and rotated every couple months (easy to do on an auto stand) it was spotless inside when we pulled a cylinder, inspected it and made photos to sell it. During the winter months I had an oil filled heater from Home Depot under the blankets on low. Not a lot of effort and a perfect storage. Usually it was inverted to keep the cam coated. Good luck!

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I stored an O-360 on an auto engine stand for two years in central CA with fog, wet hangar and high humidity etc. Covered with blankets, filled with oil, desiccant plugs changed every 4 months, and rotated every couple months (easy to do on an auto stand) it was spotless inside when we pulled a cylinder, inspected it and made photos to sell it. During the winter months I had an oil filled heater from Home Depot under the blankets on low. Not a lot of effort and a perfect storage. Usually it was inverted to keep the cam coated. Good luck!

these are all good ideas but a lot more trouble then you need to go to. fill the engine with shell preservative oil and seal in a plastic bag. and forget it. filled with oil there is no room for oxygen. the little O2 in the bag will react with the oil and not be able to react with the metals. no O2. no corrosion its that simple. this is the way that engine rebuilders and lycoming due it. it does not matter what the humidity is outside the bag if there is none inside the bag.

Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years

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these are all good ideas but a lot more trouble then you need to go to. fill the engine with shell preservative oil and seal in a plastic bag. and forget it. .

Listen to Lynn. Store the engine with the sump up and by "fill the engine", fill it completely. That is to say, seal off the exhaust ports, fill the cylinders completely with oil and screw in plugs into the spark plug holes. Fill the intake port (where the carb attaches) completely with oil. You may want to remove the mags and seal the holes. Fill the sump completely through the drain plug. This process will take gallons of oil but will prevent corrosion regardless of climate or how long the engine is stored.

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these are all good ideas but a lot more trouble then you need to go to. fill the engine with shell preservative oil and seal in a plastic bag. and forget it. filled with oil there is no room for oxygen. the little O2 in the bag will react with the oil and not be able to react with the metals. no O2. no corrosion its that simple. this is the way that engine rebuilders and lycoming due it. it does not matter what the humidity is outside the bag if there is none inside the bag.

Thanks Lynn. This is what I'll do.

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