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A-Solution


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there are no reason for dual rudder pedals in a long ez . the rudders are only used during landing and take off and you can not land one from the back seat. during cruse, turns that can be made safely from the back do not require any rudder to make a coordinated turn.

Not wanting to high-jack the thread I moved my question under LongEZ.

 

http://www.canardzone.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30140

Best regards,

 

Bruce Sturgill

http://www.pursuitofflight.com

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Bruce

The canard move was taken from the front face of the firewall. it will set a F.S. 10. This move seems to have been proven to work by other flying aircraft.

 

Bob Setzer

Thanks. It must be hard to wait four weeks before removing that right side. we're all hoping it's perfect for you. Well, as perfect as you can get.

Best regards,

 

Bruce Sturgill

http://www.pursuitofflight.com

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AIRNICO-another question:

why did you build a downward(and forward)inclined surface where the canard is supposed to be attached?

Reply With Quote

 

After the main part of the fuselage plug was built the canard point of attachment was calculated the front point of the downward incline is about the W.L. were the canard will set, that point is forward of the leading edge of the canard.

The tooling for that cut out (so that cover for the canard cover could be made) of that area was taken from the plug, than that area was removed for for the finial shape of the tool.

The first part of the downward incline coming off W.L. 23 will be left after the cut is made to allow the canard to sit in place. This allows this front part of the incline to become part of the longeron just behind the rear of the canard.

If you look closely at the photo's you will see that the turtle deck additions were made from the canopy tooling and than transferred to the main plug to finish that area.

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A good question was asked today after looking at the molds sitting atop the Fuselage plug.

The question asked was how do the two halves stay lined up being that I’m going to use them to make one part from two halves. There are a lot of ways to do it, I chose to use steel markers that were built into the tooling. The steel markers will last far longer than the fiberglass tool.

Hers a couple photo’s of the canopy frame tooling and how the markers look installed.

 

Bob Setzer

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Weather has been great here in Lakeland, Florida. We are still in the 90’s during the day.

Its been 3 days from the last laid up on the left side tooling, a long four weeks from the time the right side was laid up.

I had my good friend Paul Lampasso come out to the hangar today to help remove the molds.

At this time I have to give Paul a big That A Boy, he’s been a great help, when that second sets of hands were needed he was there.

One of the best degrees that an individual had earned was a Ph.D. in Sandology

And if that person views this post I have to tell her I thought that was a great line (call me shallow put it took me a couple days to get what that degree meant). With a little added humor, Paul will get a degree in Sandology if he stays at it.

There a lot of work left in this project. I’ve told my friends that “if it were easy every one would do it”, you have to get satisfaction from it.

Back to today, here are a couple photo’s of molds pulled from the plug. Paul is standing by the two halves.

You have to always thank those who help, and for the friends that have helped when I needed it THANKS.

One other note, the fuselage is 154 inches long from the back edge of the cowling lip to the nose, 28.75 inches at it widest, about 27.75 inside once to fab work is done.

 

Bob Setzer

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Bob,

 

Great work by you and all of your team. Your at a level of building beyond plans methods. Keep up the great work and keep posting.

 

Joe Berki

Limo EZ

their work's level is at least impressive: I can't wait to see what will come out of that mold!

Roads? Where we're going we don't need roads. (Dr. Emmett Brown)

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Thanks Guys- I'll past on the recognition to the help

 

As I had gotten into there were smaller pieces of tooling that were pulled from the fuselage plug before the main tooling was started on. Those pieces included the canard cover, front hatch cover, and lower speed brake. Those molds were heat cured to 200 degrees.

I did an vacuum bag engineering lay-up on the front hatch cover, heat cured to 170 degrees.

Here are a couple of photo"s of that part.

 

Thanks again

Bob Setzer

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  • 2 weeks later...

Last week Paul Lampasso came over to the hangar to work on his degree. He wet sanded the upper tooling to clean it up, did a great job. I followed up with a buffer to finish it up.

Moving on I’ve started on putting the recesses in the lower fuselage tooling, the photo’s show the start of the speed brake recess.

Progress moves on.

 

Bob Setzer

A-Solution

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I’ve finished the speed brake recess and finished buffing the lower fuselage plug.

The next step will be to reinstall the upper fuselage tooling to the plug to use the tooled flanges made on that tooling to match the upper tooling lay-up with.

 

Bob Setzer

A-Solution

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After finishing the speed brake recess, I got to looking at the hinge mounting area. It did not measure out, It didn’t have enough of an angle in it. Out comes the router again. I used a piece of aluminum to set the angle to 45 degrees, something I should have paid more attention to. When building a plug if you have any doubt fix it.

A job done right is a job done twice.

 

Bob Setzer

A-Solution

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Monday we installed the upper tooling back on the plug to get ready to build the lower tooling. I’m putting the needed supplies together to get ready for an early November build. A little wax on wax off and the plug will be ready. Weather is starting to cool here in Florida, 51 degrees early today.

It takes about two weeks to put five friends together to help out. So the swing in Florida temperature comes into play.

 

Bob Setzer

A-solution

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well

Being a person of few words here we go. We started this mourning at 9 and after 13.5 hours we are ready for tomorrows finishing lay-ups. I had five of my friends come out to the hangar to share the fun (wore them out). Most will be back in the A.M. to finish up. I figure about another 7 hours to finish, I could never have done this with out there help. Know longer a one man job to move the tooling any more. Just to big.

Progress move on.

 

Bob Setzer

A-Solution

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After 6.5 hours of lay-up on to lower fuselage tooling today the major part of the tooling is done, I’ll be cleaning the tooling up in the next week so as to get ready to heat cure the tooling. I’ll be building a hot box to do the curing of the tooling. and parts in the future. Still a lot to do, progress moves on.

 

Bob Setzer

A-Solution

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I was sorting through the photo's I've taken of the project, came across the tooling for the spar. These photo's are of the spar plug, I will post the mold for the spar later.

I've been building the supports for the lower Fuselage tooling so as to get ready for its removal from the plug.

Progress moves on.

 

Bob Setzer

A-Solution

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Well another piece of the puzzle gets accomplished.

The lower tooling was removed from the plug today.

It’s always a process to get to this point, such as making supports and a stand to put the molds into. All part of the build process. It’s hard to imagine the area that the tooling is starting to take up.

Still a lot to do.

Progress moves on.

 

Bob Setzer

A-Solution

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Bob,

 

you are truly doing spectacular work. I can't wait to see some parts pulled from the mold.

 

I've been following the thread, but don't recall. What type of glass, epoxy, internal structure system are you using?

Drew Chaplin (aka the Foam Whisperer)

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www.Cozy1200.com - I'm a builder now! :cool:

---

Brace for impact...

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Thanks Drew, You have a great web site with interesting info.

All of the tooling has been built with the use of 7500 series tooling cloth and MGS resin sandwiching a balsa core. The tooling surface coat is made by PTM-W and is an epoxy tooling gel surfacing produce that is made to be use at higher temps than the tooling will run at. I’m going to heat cure the tooling to 200 degrees. I’m looking at curing the parts at 170. The tooling should hold together for awhile at that temperature.

I did find out something the other day about the use of balsa as a core for the tooling, balsa has some moisture in it that on using it at a temperature that exceeds boiling point it could damage the tooling. Only taking the tooling to 200 only one time I hope the tooling will last for awhile.

As far as making a fuselage I’m using MGS resin, E- Glass with a Divinycell core.

 

Bob Setzer

A-solution

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