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Posted (edited)

Saw this idea for an instrument panel (pic 1).  The metal work is commendable but I think the visor is overkill and possibly a hazard in a crash.  Also there is extra metal around the leg-holes that is just unneeded weight.   Plans-Cozys do need a small visor though.  Until I glued this piece of black-painted Formica to my canopy (pic 2) , I had to look through the reflection of a dozen chrome switches.  It is held in place by 3M mounting tape.

My panel has an aluminum face on it.  I am finding the lower edges that rub against sweaty, salty legs are starting to show a bit of corrosion creeping under the paint.  Doing it again, I might use a Formica face vs. aluminum--much lighter.   Alternatively, I might make a two-piece panel so that half of it could be updated without removing the entire face. 

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Edited by Kent Ashton

-Kent
Cozy IV N13AM-750 hrs, Long-EZ-85 hrs and sold

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Couple of things from the Z-burg Site: 

- This strut piece (pic 1) should be steel.  My EZ buyer and I found this out the hard way.  I suggest when mounting it with the flox to also wrap a layer of BID around it. 

- A couple of ideas for mounting an autopilot servo and roll trim.  H/T to those gents.

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-Kent
Cozy IV N13AM-750 hrs, Long-EZ-85 hrs and sold

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Ellison all cleaned up.  I am still waiting on the Tilliotson diaphragms.

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-Kent
Cozy IV N13AM-750 hrs, Long-EZ-85 hrs and sold

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Saw this idea somewhere for compact exhaust nuts that use a 12-point socket.  A good idea because getting a socket on the regular nuts is a pain and sometimes involves grinding a socket.  I keep a little bag of them now with a 1/4" drive, 12 pt socket.   Mcmaster 90759A200  "Steel High-Torque 12-Point Flange Nuts".  It's good to used some anti-seize on the studs.  Nickel-based anit-seize seems to be the highest rated temp at 2400 def F.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/3458

My Ellison is back on the airplane and seems to run OK.  I have not had a chance to fly it yet.  Funny thing with these TBIs in that WOT is not always peak RPM.  Mine needs to be retarded about 1/4" at the lever to get peak.

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-Kent
Cozy IV N13AM-750 hrs, Long-EZ-85 hrs and sold

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4 hours ago, Kent Ashton said:

Saw this idea somewhere for compact exhaust nuts that use a 12-point socket...

That was me, on the COZY list :-). Although I got them from Summit Racing - they sell them (as does McM) in both 5/16-18 and 5/16-24, depending on which studs you have. WAY better than the standard nuts, which can be freaking impossible to get at with a wrench, particularly if you have in-cowl exhausts.

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I don't wish to be too critical of another's workmanship but you gotta admit, these are some ugly wheel pants (pic 1).  Here are my slightly less-ugly pants which I will discuss for your entertainment:

I drew up horizontal and vertical profiles of the pant using wheel measurements and a suitable airfoil from "Theory of Wing Sections" (pic 2).  [These days with online airfoils, spreadsheets and cad, you could draw these easily in a day.]   I traced them on a big block of foam and cut them to shape with a big bandsaw .  You could use a hotwire.  Sanded them to a pleasing shape.  [Mistakes #1 - They are bigger than needed] [Mistake #2 - I used pour foam to glue the big block together.  Should have used micro or perhaps spray glue.  The pour foam left ugly depressions in the shape].  I glassed the shape with a couple layers of BID and filled the surface.  Now I had a plug (pic 3).  I setup the plug lengthwise in piece of plywood so only half the plug was exposed, waxed it up, painted-on PVC mold release [Mistake #3 - Mold release wants to crawl away from wax and clump-up.  The secret to mold release is to spray very thin layers that dry quickly].

I painted half with gel coat [M #4 - should have gel-coated both halves and taken the time to spray it on.] and laid-up a thick layer of chopped glass using cheap polyester resin.  Flipped the plug and repeated.  Now I had molds (pics 4,5) [M #5 - I should have used open, lengthwise molds.  The narrowness of the tail mold made it hard to layup the wet glass inside the mold].  

I think I used 3 layers of BID on my first set of pants and 2 layers another time.  Two layers was flimsy but they were fine after adding ribs (pic 8 ) and some patches of reinforcement around bolt holes.  Now had rough wheel pants.  I joined the nose-halves and the tail-halves with strips of glass, then cut an access hole where I could reach inside and lay-up overlaps that would accommodate nutplates (pic 5)  Lastly, I fit them to the wheel and used modeling clay covered by electrical tape to make strut fairings (pic 7).

There are lots of way to mount pants.  Mine are split fore-and-aft so I only have to remove one small bolt and a few screws to access the brake bleeder.  The pant nose remains unless I'm working or tires or bearings.

There is still light finishing and painting to do.  I know why people buy them.  🙂

 

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-Kent
Cozy IV N13AM-750 hrs, Long-EZ-85 hrs and sold

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Posted (edited)

Saw this very clean SDFI installation by Mike Satchell.  Note the anodized bracket for throttle controls.  Shame to put a cowl over this.  🙂

 

 

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Edited by Kent Ashton
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-Kent
Cozy IV N13AM-750 hrs, Long-EZ-85 hrs and sold

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Posted (edited)

This chap (pics 1,2) theorized that the "hat" on his camloc came off after the retaining ring on the camloc body wore out, allowing the camloc unlock and to back out,   I am skeptical.  I looked at mine (pics 3, 4) and the hat is a very tight fit to the body of the camloc.  Camlocs are very stout metal.  If there is any of the retaining ring left on the camloc body, I doubt the hat is going to come off.   My bet is that the camloc was not fully over-center and the hat was knocked off in the collision with the prop.   When a camloc has this much shaft exposed as in pic 1, it is easy to remove the hat.  I have only lost one camloc in 700+ hours but fortunately it only nicked the prop.  It was probably not fully over-center.

They do not need to be excessively tight to install but short enough so that the spring should load them so there is definite over-centering felt when installed.  I use several sizes so I spray paint them for ID.  Easier than squinting at tiny numbers and cheaper than buying the rather expensive adjustable receptacles ($15 each, yikes!)  . 🙂 

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Edited by Kent Ashton

-Kent
Cozy IV N13AM-750 hrs, Long-EZ-85 hrs and sold

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