steve Posted August 8, 2009 Author Share Posted August 8, 2009 why thanks sir, clear as mud. may all the BW-lets meet at osh in the year 2013 or so.. Quote Steve M. Parkins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve Posted August 9, 2009 Author Share Posted August 9, 2009 one more thing, i cut my wing and fixed a offset (my jigs suck). i have one more cut left to do. can some one tell me if they can lay a straight line down the top of there wing ? look at the pic, you can see 1/4" of air under the bar, bad or good? Quote Steve M. Parkins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edge 513 Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 A lot of folks have that funky little swale that you found. Hmmm. My tops are dead flat end to end. Whats up with that Vert stabilizer in the background? It looks mighty skinny. [?] Quote Self confessed Wingnut. Now think about it...wouldn't you rather LIVE your life, rather than watch someone else's, on Reality T.V.? Get up off that couch!!! =) Progress; Fuselage on all three, with outside and inside nearly complete. 8 inch extended nose. FHC done. Canard finished. ERacer wings done with blended winglets. IO540 starting rebuild. Mounting Spar. Starting strake ribs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Morrison Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 how do you test for an increase in speed at 140 kts? how do you know it is faster? top speed is easy but testing at half speed is difficult. also did it change landing speed and dutch roll at low speed. removing the lower winglet does make a difference. does the radius help on dutch roll over the no winglet E racer wing. this wing was also tested on an E racer with a much higher wing loading then the standard cozy IV has. we will have to wait to see it on a cozy IV before we will know the real effect. What I did to give a very close comparison of airspeeds is to compare all my airspeeds during 8 years of testing for cooling and airspeed measurements before and after the blended winglets.. I had littereally 100.s of documented airspeeds at all DA and oat temps. How I calabrated the airspeed was at engine rpm say 2100rpm= 150 kts without the blended (same oat and DA) the airspeed would be 160 kts with the blended winglet. The speed would increase every 100 rpm, everything equal, + 10 kts. The drag on the original wing/winglet was definately a drag area and the blend made a significant reduction in the drag. It was really great to see at a normal power setting you were seeing a 10 kt increase at all settings, all being equal. The ERacer as you know did not have lower winglets and I flew the AC for 2-3 years that way. I saw the article on Klaus's website and added the 3 trailing edge fences. Lowered my landing speed by 10 mph, worked really well although no gain in speed, at least not noticable. When I blended the winglets, I flew without the trailing edge fences and found they were not necessary, all control inputs and landing speed were idenitical to the original winglet with the trailing edge fences. The blend definately helped the duch roll as an the original wing/winglet. The reason I kept the radius of the blend as small as I did was to keep the bottom of rudder as close the wing as possible to hopefully eliminate as much duch roll as possible, made a good decision on that. Time will tell on the Cozy. Jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve Posted August 9, 2009 Author Share Posted August 9, 2009 i think because of the way the paper m's are that the jig 5 (the short one) opens up as it gets wet, and some how my box in storage must of got very moist:mad: i put all the wood jigs side by side and that jig is open 1/4" at the top, in short it lets the end foam(next to spar) lift up in comparison to the rest of the wing. easy fix now, not so easy after you skin and then find it. builder tip, cut the jigs and stack them together, you will see the need to trim just a smidgen off them. ps. if you look in the back ground you will see the other 1/2 tip setting up. the wing has bin cut at the sheer web (good eye) Quote Steve M. Parkins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynn Erickson Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 i think because of the way the paper m's are that the jig 5 (the short one) opens up as it gets wet, and some how my box in storage must of got very moist:mad: i put all the wood jigs side by side and that jig is open 1/4" at the top, in short it lets the end foam(next to spar) lift up in comparison to the rest of the wing. easy fix now, not so easy after you skin and then find it. builder tip, cut the jigs and stack them together, you will see the need to trim just a smidgen off them. ps. if you look in the back ground you will see the other 1/2 tip setting up. the wing has bin cut at the sheer web (good eye) Steve there are two types of wing templates. the stock long ez and cozy 3 and 4 have a trailing edge that is bent up at the inboard foam block. the Eracer, aero canard and sq 2000 the trailing edge is straight. the angle on the forward edge of the spar mounting surface does have a slight angle change at the outboard block because the spar is tapered at a different angle then the outboard wing taper. just make sure that both wings have the same angle. Quote Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve Posted August 9, 2009 Author Share Posted August 9, 2009 Steve there are two types of wing templates. the stock long ez and cozy 3 and 4 have a trailing edge that is bent up at the inboard foam block. the Eracer, aero canard and sq 2000 the trailing edge is straight. the angle on the forward edge of the spar mounting surface does have a slight angle change at the outboard block because the spar is tapered at a different angle then the outboard wing taper. just make sure that both wings have the same angle.that is what it looks like on my other wing.So denice must have the eracer jigs? i have cut the end block lose and will match it to my other wing. thanks lynn ps. will be in your neck of the woods on the 16th to the 29, you boys need help building anything ? Quote Steve M. Parkins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfryer Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 Whats up with that Vert stabilizer in the background? It looks mighty skinny. [?] Steve, does it look skinny because you have removed the forward portion to lay up a shear web into the vertical stab? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve Posted October 17, 2009 Author Share Posted October 17, 2009 Just to post a couple of pics of Jack's and my work on my wings over last weekend to show the spar cap assemblies since many are wondering about the blended cores structure. Veru easy to accomplish and is now ready to cut out the rudders. Yes, I am not just "winging" it...but am working with the brightest in our community. Looking at a "system" using oversize wet strake leading edges, longer original canard etc to fulfill my 540 powered Cozy with regards to Cg and performance across the board. Thanks, Marc, Jack, Chris, Lynn for all your help and input. i don't see the rudder root end is cut yet, will it be horizontal ? or will it be 90 deg from the LE (rudder) ? will (did) you add to the overall size ? any chance you know how long your bell crank is (bolt-to-bolt,est) ? did you do any rudder work be for you skinned the top ? Quote Steve M. Parkins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edge 513 Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 i don't see the rudder root end is cut yet, will it be horizontal ? or will it be 90 deg from the LE (rudder) ? will (did) you add to the overall size ? any chance you know how long your bell crank is (bolt-to-bolt,est) ? did you do any rudder work be for you skinned the top ? I dont have a bell crank. I can send you a pic of the rudder cut out shape when I get back from outoftown, I dont have my other laptop. See above but also; Little confusing about what you are asking. Yea, you skin the rudders completely before you cut them out? The rudder conduit did go in prior to glassing, if that is what you are asking...or...The rudder tops out at the top. Chris E. finished his like that. I am putting a piece on top that has my running lights & strobe in it. No, you dont build the top till afterwards, if that is what you are wanting for the top of your rudders. ???????????????? Quote Self confessed Wingnut. Now think about it...wouldn't you rather LIVE your life, rather than watch someone else's, on Reality T.V.? Get up off that couch!!! =) Progress; Fuselage on all three, with outside and inside nearly complete. 8 inch extended nose. FHC done. Canard finished. ERacer wings done with blended winglets. IO540 starting rebuild. Mounting Spar. Starting strake ribs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve Posted October 17, 2009 Author Share Posted October 17, 2009 i have the outer skin on and have drawn the location of the future cut-out of the rudder on the inboard side. the plans call out a 90deg cut from the leading edge of the rudder but the pencil sketch from jack shows it cut to follow the horizon. i will follow jacks way. i lost 25q in's from the rudder, because of the blend. so i added 1" from top to bottom (plans have the with at 7.5, i made it 8.5). and its 40" high so i added 40q in" ? what ant. did you put in yours ? i have the cable in and awaiting................................. Quote Steve M. Parkins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edge 513 Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 i have the outer skin on and have drawn the location of the future cut-out of the rudder on the inboard side. the plans call out a 90deg cut from the leading edge of the rudder but the pencil sketch from jack shows it cut to follow the horizon. i will follow jacks way. i lost 25q in's from the rudder, because of the blend. so i added 1" from top to bottom (plans have the with at 7.5, i made it 8.5). and its 40" high so i added 40q in" ? what ant. did you put in yours ? i have the cable in and awaiting................................. If I recall right, my rudders are 37" tall and the widest point is 8-1/4" at the bottom. The bottom is a horizontal cut. You will find the rudder swing will make you cut a little more if the inboard side of the horizontal rudder cut. My top piece will be a couple of inches tall to house the lighting. There is plenty of rudder on these planes so a guy doesnt have to freak about losing a bit of rudder to the blend. Best to worry about the overall height IMHO. If you have Jacks sketch then you see the "bellcrank" is more of a vertical assembly piece, that a horizontal bellhorn. I wasnt sure what you were asking back there. =/ Quote Self confessed Wingnut. Now think about it...wouldn't you rather LIVE your life, rather than watch someone else's, on Reality T.V.? Get up off that couch!!! =) Progress; Fuselage on all three, with outside and inside nearly complete. 8 inch extended nose. FHC done. Canard finished. ERacer wings done with blended winglets. IO540 starting rebuild. Mounting Spar. Starting strake ribs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve Posted October 18, 2009 Author Share Posted October 18, 2009 i wanted to make jacks bell-crank and there is no size, just the work "full size" and i asked my printer to print full size and it did:p where did you cut the nylaflow off at ?.....flush both ends ? Quote Steve M. Parkins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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