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My-T-Fine!

Glass work looks so smooth too, nice.

Please get a picture from inside the tub and wherever else showing how the offsets straddle the fuselage sides.

...Chrissi

Scrumptious compliment, many thanks :)

 

Will do on the pix, after an extended post cure in my attic.

 

Rick

 

PS: anyone notice the bogus fender washers holding the spool piece on? Huh, anyone?

Rick Hall; MK-IV plans #1477; cozy.zggtr.org

Build status: 1-7, bits of 8-9, 10, 14 done! Working on engine/prop/avionics.
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First off, I have a part that actually moves :D

 

See attached pix. The canard is level for test purposes.

I didn't put a level under the elevators at 0 degrees on the jig, I only have two hands. I think it can be inferred the NC12 bracket cants about 15 degrees though. At least for my canard/elevator unit ;)

 

Did I mention I now have a part that really really moves? :carrot:

 

Rick

G'day Rick

 

The prictures helped greatly thanks. The plans do not mention the angle and I was able to move my NC-12 about 70 degrees with the rod installed. I did not want to drill without getting more information.

 

I tried to shoot a laser through the guide pin holes to align the NC-12, but still was not happy with the results.

 

Thanks again. I know a few folks are looking in on this issue because they will be building the elevators soon. I think they wanted to get the canard mounted first....

 

Jeff

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G'day

 

I managed to get a few hours in the hanger to work on the elevators. I have attached a couple of pictures of the elevators with the NC-3s and NC-2s. The right elevator is 1lb. 14oz. and the left is 1lb. 13oz. The digital scale shows the weight. Please note the weight on the left is so light because I am goint to use CZNC-12s and part of the left tube is cut off.

 

If anybody has their weights with the NC-3s and NC-2s installed it would be nice to check.

 

I welcome constructive comments.

 

Jeff

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G'day

 

I want to thank Rick for the angle information. I cut a 15 degree spacer to help keep everything lined up. I have a few pictures and I marked the yellow spacer.

 

I recommend anybody building this pare install the arms to make sure they fit.

 

I welcome constructive comments.

 

Jeff

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G'day

 

I managed to get a few more hours in the hanger today. I worked on the canard. I used the origional CU plans when I built my canard, but I used the Roncz templates. The canard elevator foam inserts were located in different areas and I needed to put in 6 inserts.

 

I took several pictures of the process. I can tell everybody the $55.00 Harbor Freight ("Fein" like tool) worked GREAT!

 

I used the elevator to mark the canard. Then I cut the canard and made the 1" high density foam inserts. I used micro to fix the inserts and then covered with two layers of uni.

 

I also used micro and two 1/4" diameter wood dowel cut 3" long and then sharpened on both ends.

 

I still welcome constructive comments.

 

Thanks;

 

Jeff

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Well, I never heard of someone inserting the foam hardpoints *after* the canard was skinned. Not to imply you'll fall from the sky, but it's not to plans.

 

Per the Wayne Hicks "Canard Sanding Sled" method, I contoured the canard bottom profile to about 90%. He's right that sanding around the hinges after the canard/elevators are completed would be a pain.

 

Rick

Rick Hall; MK-IV plans #1477; cozy.zggtr.org

Build status: 1-7, bits of 8-9, 10, 14 done! Working on engine/prop/avionics.
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G'day

 

I have posted a couple of pictures of my nose and pitot tube.

 

I welcome constructive comments.

 

Jeff

G'day

 

I have had a few hours to work on the nose today.

 

First, I hollowed out the nose. I have attached several pictures. Several folks sent me messages about the pitot length in the first set of pictures. I have set the pitot to extend 3 inches in these pictures. I think this is a more real length.

 

I welcome constructive comments;

 

Jeff

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G'day

 

I had another hour to work on the nose so I made the forward bulkhead. I used several screws to attach the foam bulkhead to the nose. I then trimmed the dense foam for the bulkhead with a keyhole saw. Then I shaped with the perma grit sanding block. This took just over an hour...

 

I have attached several pictures. I welcome constructive comments.

 

Jeff

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You'll need to insulate the pitot tube from the blue foam. Phenolic works well.

G'day TMann

 

Wow, that was fast. Yes, I am planning to insulate the pitot tube. Dont want to have the heat burn up that nose. But thanks for the idea of the Phenolic.

 

You back to work on yours?

 

Jeff

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G'day

 

This week in my email was a use at own risk "reference"/"evaluation" copy of the two Chapter 11 jigs "L" and "J"

 

I am attaching the PDF, but please remember they are for reference only and should be used for reference purposes....

 

Please note the PDF fits on a LEGAL page so you will need legal paper.

 

With that said, see attached.

 

I want to thank Martin for the help. My reference copy looks good, but your results may very...

 

Jeff

J&L_TEMPLATES.pdf

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  • 5 months later...

G'day

 

Well, after a six month break, I got back to building.... Started Chapter 19 Wings last weekend. I built jig 4. I got lucky and was given jig 1, 2, 3, and 5. I have attached a picture of the jig.

 

Jeff

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G'day

 

I spent the last couple of days building the wing jig table and working on the left wing. I have attached a couple of pictures of the foam core in the jigs mounted on the table.

 

I wanted to get the wings done before the weather starts to get cold again. The wings are to large to build in my warm room.

 

Jeff

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  • 5 weeks later...

G'day

 

I have been working on the wings the last few weeks.... I have the left wing shear web, upper and lower spars installed so this weekend I got to work on the right wing.... I managed to get the shear web installed and here are some pictures...

 

Note the table I built and leveled then used Bondo to keep it in place during the wing build.... It has worked well. The folks around the hanger can't wait for the wings to be done so they can have a bench to sit on and give me advise.... Hmmmm, maybe the table wasn't such a good idea.....

 

The background the left wing is sitting on a couple of my building tables outside the warm room that I will be using very soon.... The Mooney is a hanger mate's plane, and the Cessna is mine with the engine off getting rebuilt. I have already had to tent and heat the layups at night.... I was hoping to have the wings covered before it got cold....

 

I welcome ideas and constructive comments....

 

Thanks for looking;

 

Jeff

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Looks good!

 

When you flip the wings level and are ready to do the skin layup, use popsicle sticks or whatever between the trailing edge foam and your bench to take out the waviness of the trailing edge. Where it dips a little, raise the foam to level and five minute the popsicle stick in place to hold it.

 

After your first skin is cured fully and you have it flipped ready for the other skin, do the same again. Put the sticks between the skin and the bench to take the remaining waviness out. Check with a long straight edge to make sure you've got it straight between jigs.

 

If you site down most trailing edges, you'll see that they aren't straight. The waviness acts like little ailerons fighting each other. Some trying to roll right and some trying to roll left. That doesn't make for the most efficient/fast wing.

Dave Adams

Long EZ N83DT

Race 83

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G'day

 

welcome ideas and constructive comments....

 

Thanks for looking;

 

Jeff

trailing edge.... your wing looks good so you may not need anything, but mine needed help. i used Angle aluminum 6' and some other scrap to hold up the trailing edge.

but remember the "dip". when all was flat there was lots of pressure because i was trying to fores the TE into the rough shape. if i just clamped the first 2 feet or so, then clamped the next 2/3rds all was well.

trim back the sher so there is no buildup (but you new that).

after you lay it flat, i use thread (unbrakeabl) then i pull the thread over the wing and put 1/16th shim under both ends, that way i can see how flat it is.

if a can fit the same size shim under the thread in the center of the wing then i'm happy

Steve M. Parkins

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G'day

 

Thanks for the input, and ideas. I will skin the left wing and get the spars installed on the right wing this weekend. I have a friend that said he would help with the skinning.... I didn't want to take it on alone.

 

Has anybody tried skinning both sides at the same time. I read a web page someplace that the builder hung the wing through the nav light wire hole.... It looked interesting, but I am not sure. It seems to me it would work, but then the trailing edge wave problem......

 

I think I will use the plans method, but I wanted to ask....

 

Thanks again for the ideas and advise. I will do my best to follow and not screw it up to badly....

 

Jeff

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Has anybody tried skinning both sides at the same time.

 

I would think that one side at a time would be enough for me.

I don't know how you would workaround the trailing edges (Glass to Glass)

T Mann - Loooong-EZ/20B Infinity R/G Chpts 18

Velocity/RG N951TM

Mann's Airplane Factory

We add rocket's to everything!

4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 9, 10, 14, 19, 20 Done

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G'day

 

It seems over the weekend (maybe the last warm one this year) I discovered that I was short Uni for the Upper Spar for the Right Wing... I also discovered that I did not have enough Uni to complete cover of the wing bottoms....:o

 

So I put the wings back into the protective foam block shells I made them from and put them away. I also ordered 50 Yards of Uni cloth and Uni for the Spar.... I also ordered 5 gal. of epoxy.... I should have ordered these a month ago.... Stupid.

 

I will spend the next few weeks working on smaller sections that I have not finished and hope maybe for a few good days of weather before winter sets in, but I am not holding my breath.

 

The warm room is 13' inside.... So a wing will fit (just fit) inside, but I will need to do some dancing under the wing to work.... It will add a level of complexity. Another option is to move the wings to my basement at home and work.... 12 foot wings in a 6 foot bed.... is not the best plan.....

 

I will continue to do the warm weather dance and hope for some global warming, but at this point I have stored the wings for better weather.

 

As always, I welcome ideas, and constructive comments....

 

Jeff

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