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Berkut Kit


tonyslongez

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Tony,

I'm having my parts machined for the elevator trim this week.

Check your parts for this. I can have them make a second set if you need them.

On Drawing 803-0026 this would be items #2,4,5,15 & 17.

I also bought extras of the springs (item #3).

T Mann - Loooong-EZ/20B Infinity R/G Chpts 18

Velocity/RG N951TM

Mann's Airplane Factory

We add rocket's to everything!

4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 9, 10, 14, 19, 20 Done

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Tony,

I'm having my parts machined for the elevator trim this week.

Check your parts for this. I can have them make a second set if you need them.

On Drawing 803-0026 this would be items #2,4,5,15 & 17.

I also bought extras of the springs (item #3).

you may want to consider using the Strong electric trim and not the stock one, with retracts you will be using it a lot on takeoffs and landings

Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years

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For me it is a moot point. I already have all of the parts for the Berkut trim system. I have a couple pieces I'm having machined but alraedy have secured the actuator, springs, bolts and aluminum parts.

 

I've looked at a lot of trim systems and really like what Berkut came up with in their design. It make way too much sense. :D

T Mann - Loooong-EZ/20B Infinity R/G Chpts 18

Velocity/RG N951TM

Mann's Airplane Factory

We add rocket's to everything!

4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 9, 10, 14, 19, 20 Done

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The only thing I don't like about the Berkut trim system - and it's a *very* small point - is it doesn't give you the redundancy of the original Long EZ system.

 

Suppose the worst happens, you leave the clevis safety out of the elevator pushrod, and it falls apart. In the long you still have some minimal control over the elevator, because the trim is still attached by cables. In Berkut, if the pushrod fails, there's no control to the elevators at all.

 

The Strong system has the same thing. They're both fine as trim systems, you just don't get the bonus redundancy.

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The Strong system has the same thing. They're both fine as trim systems, you just don't get the bonus redundancy

Richard, I was concerned about this also. When I installed my Strong Pitch Trim system, instead of connecting it to the elevators main push tube, I made a bellcrank and installed it so it connects to the original manual trim bellhorn. (Where the trim cables used to be installed.)

 

Take a look at the setup:

 

http://www.iflyez.com/LongEZ_Retrofit_DEC_05.shtml

 

Waiter

F16 performance on a Piper Cub budget

LongEZ, 160hp, MT CS Prop, Downdraft cooling, Full retract

visit: www.iflyez.com

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Today I turned the airplane over and cleaned up a few things, The landing break and retracting landing light. I also thought it a good idea to clean up all the spilled epoxy on the belly, took a while but I managed to get most of it. Not sure what to do with the landing light. I think I'm going to get rid of it and do the landing light another way. Maybe in the wing leading edge?

 

Pic 1) This is the bottom of the fuse landing break area. I removed the break so it could be fitted properly.

Pic 2) I reinstalled the break so you could see how the previous owner thought is should be mounted. I'm trying to keep my composure here and not lash out.

Pic 3) Here is the break fitted to the fuse. the break was slightly larger than the depression it sits in so I had to trim just past the trim lines to get a perfect fit.

Pic 4) Landing light. I don't think this is how you mount this landing light. ( Just my guess)

Pic 5) Landing light removed. I think I'll do a layup here and cover the hole up. A small repair will have to be made to the instrument bulkhead.

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Here are some pics of todays events.

 

Pic 1) I had to cut the rear roll over structure there weren't any joining tapes there yet so this wasn't an issue. Plus this was the only way to install the new firewall

Pic 2) another shot of the firewall

Pic 3) Here it is with the level on it's face so I could triangulate with the instrument panel

Pic 4) A shot from the front

Pic 5) All tied up waiting to cure

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Satch

 

Thanks for the encouraging words. Bad Ass is right my friend. Soon she will be fitted with new bulkheads all the way around. Next, close the spar out and get it mounted properly. I hope to have all this completed by the end of the week. More pics tomorrow. I have to work early in the morning so The pics won't be posted untill later in the night time (PST)

 

Tony

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Today I turned the airplane over and cleaned up a few things, The landing break and retracting landing light. I also thought it a good idea to clean up all the spilled epoxy on the belly, took a while but I managed to get most of it. Not sure what to do with the landing light. I think I'm going to get rid of it and do the landing light another way. Maybe in the wing leading edge?

 

Pic 1) This is the bottom of the fuse landing break area. I removed the break so it could be fitted properly.

Pic 2) I reinstalled the break so you could see how the previous owner thought is should be mounted. I'm trying to keep my composure here and not lash out.

Pic 3) Here is the break fitted to the fuse. the break was slightly larger than the depression it sits in so I had to trim just past the trim lines to get a perfect fit.

Pic 4) Landing light. I don't think this is how you mount this landing light. ( Just my guess)

Pic 5) Landing light removed. I think I'll do a layup here and cover the hole up. A small repair will have to be made to the instrument bulkhead.

you are not going to be happy with that landing brake mounting with those 1/4" bolts. the hinge screws should be # 8 or 10's and the hinge should be mounted on the inside when the break is closed. on the 45 angle section that way the hinge and screws don't show. keep up the good work, it's going to be a great plane

Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years

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you are not going to be happy with that landing brake mounting with those 1/4" bolts.

Lynn

 

Thanks for the post. I'm not mounting the landing brake that way. I will mount as per plans. What I was tryng to convey to everyone was how the previous owner had thought it was supposed to be mounted. I didn't get any real good pics of the break before I took it off, so I reinstalled the break the way I recieved it so everyone could see what I had to deal with.

 

Tony

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I didn't get any real good pics of the break before I took it off, so I reinstalled the break the way I recieved it so everyone could see what I had to deal with.

Jesus Now I understand why previous owner decided to sell his "project" he realized that he is going to kill himself with his craftskills so he gave up.(maybe aircraft companies should make some kind of tests (just a thought) before they sell kit to someone I really dont understand it he had manuals, plans, videotapes etc) I really admire you Tony course you struggle with that sh.. job (done by previous owner ) every day it would be to much for me. For this reason I won't never ever buy a plane made but someone else (special with 0 flight hours), you just can't be sure about it. I know that guy was a phenomenon but you can't be sure maybe more of them "work" around. I saw few projects on ebay like "plane almost ready just put an engine and fly", no thanks if the plane is covered with paint it's to late to check job quality.

 

btw I'm wonder did you decide which epoxy you are going to use in the wings construction MGS or maybe other?

 

Mak

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Mak

 

I thought the same thing about these kit manufactuers finding out about a persons ability before selling them a kit. Not only that, after talking to Dave R. he said that "Everyone that has completed a berkut was in constant contact with him and his staff". When I told him that I was buying Walter Sally's airplane. He had to search his memory banks for a minute (not a good sign). Dave couldn't realy remember who Walt was. Dave warned me that if He couldn't remeber who that person was immediately off the top of his head chances are the airplane was in trouble. Well he was spot on with that one.

I bought a giant can of worms. As far as epoxy. I'm using MGS on the wings and everything else for that matter. Mgs has to be the finest epoxy I'v ever used. It's blue when you mix it :cool:. The slow hardner has a four hour cure time and it's viscosity is like water . It's great for bagging.:thumbsup:

 

Tony

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"Everyone that has completed a berkut was in constant contact with him and his staff".

Exactlly when you pay I dont remember 45.000$? for the entire Berkut kit you have right to call to the factory and ask them a question if you dont understand something. Both side seller and buyer should cooperate. That's why I was talking about simplet test like "can you use phone" etc

Because otherwise someone wasting money and risking his and others life.

 

I'm using MGS on the wings and everything else for that matter

285 or 335?

 

Mak

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Mak

 

I'm using the good stuff 285. Unfortunately it ships HAZMAT damn expensive.

 

Tony

Fortunately shipinng in Europe will be cheaper. I dont know how much you pay for this but for example in Europe 10kg of MGS L 285 cost about 147 euro its about 160-180$ but the problem is you just can't ship it normally like other things.

European distributor

http://www.havel-composites.com/shop/22-Epoxy-resins-MGS/7-Epoxy-resin-L-285--MGS-.html?pls=0

 

Thanks for answers Tony keep going and keep posting.

 

Mak

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Mak

 

 

That's pretty cool that you guys can get such large amounts of MGS in one order. I don't think we can get that much all at once:sad: . You can buy as many individual gallons as you want to. I don't think we can buy it in say a 5 gallon bucket. How much is the hardner over there?

 

Tony

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. How much is the hardner over there?

Tony something strange happened with that page I gave you link in English but now everything is probably in Czechs or Slovakian sorry but I dont understand these languages and they have funny curency. I can't even read that page at the moment in my language but as soon as they fix it I will tell you.

 

Mak

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I just checked currency difference it's bigger then I thought 100Euro - 146 $ (Dollar is really cheap nowadays) It doesn't look like a bargain anymore.

 

Hardener 285 2kg 39 euro

Hardener 286 2kg 42 euro

Hardener 287 2kg 46 euro

 

I just found local supplier even cheaper.

 

Resin 285 MGS:

- to 30kg - 12.80 Euro/Kg

- 30 - 100kg - 12.30 Euro/Kg

- 100 - 240kg - 11.70 Euro/Kg

 

Hardener

 

H 285

- to 12kg - 13.60 Euro/Kg

- 12 - 40kg - 13.00 Euro/Kg

- 40 - 96kg - 12.40 Euro/Kg

 

H 286

- to12kg - 15.40 Euro/Kg

- 12 - 40kg - 14.70 Euro/Kg

- 40 - 96kg - 14.00 Euro/Kg

 

H 287

- to 12kg - 16.90 Euro/Kg

- 12 - 40kg - 15.20 Euro/Kg

- 40 - 96kg - 15.40 Euro/Kg

 

 

 

Mak

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Dale and I worked like crazy today got alot done here are the pics.

 

Pic 1) Here is Dale sanding the side of the fuse. This is done so the bondo will stick to the side of the fuse when you level it.

The black electrical tape above Dale is where I marked the cut lines for the canard.

Pic 2) We had to cut out the indtrument bulkhead. I don't know if you guys remember but I was going to leave it in because

I thought it was done correctly well it wasn't so it had to be removed. If you go back and look at the pics of the landing light it will be obvious what is wrong.

Pic 3) This is where the landing light and the instrument panel sorta joined together (His way) not the plans way. this is what it looked like before I cut it out.

Pic 4) Here is where the instrument panel is supposed to be.

Pic 5) Here is the fuse leveled and bondoed into place. I don't have the pic but you have to run dry wall screws

down thru the fuse and into the hobby horse to help stabelize the fuse in roll.

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Tony

Have followed your posts for sometime now. Now that you have a Berkut Kit I thought that I would transform from leaker to occasional poster. The Berkut has always been of interest to me, so much so that I've been working on a project to fill the gap. I hope to have my fuselage and canopy tooling done in Jan. 08. For now hope all is well at your end.

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