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Not sure if it will fit but what you may want is a piloted counterbore to spot face the area where that washer goes. The tool looks like a long end mill with a smooth pilot sticking out of the middle that fits in the hole on your part. Question is do you have enough clearance, in other words is the interference just the material in the radius or is it the wall as well?

Those knurled tubes look mighty nice though

I think the offending material is just in the radius. I might be able to file it away.

 

Somewhere (:D ) I saw some knurled tubes so I stole the idea. A local machinist my brother works with made them up for me. I am sure they are no match for the true thing!

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I made my own LGBs, and I did install the bushings at the recommendation of Ken Brock (WAY BACK WHEN).

 

This came out of CP46 - its refering to a 100 hour inspection of the Main Landing Gear to see if it has play in it:

 

 

 

The AN6-80A bolt should be torqued to a value of 275 inch/lbs. Care should be used to assure that the nut does not bottom on the threads. If this occurs, it is possible for the loads to gradually cause this 3/8" bolt to elongate the holes in the aluminum extrusions. If you bought your extrusions from Brock, you will note that they have flanged, steel bushings pressed into the aluminum angles, these steel bushings are available separately from Brock and are an excellent idea. If your AN6-80A bolt appears to be too long, simply add an extra washer or two under the head and under the nut to make certain that the nut is clamping down on the extrusion and LMGA tube. Of course, the general rule here is that you need two threads protruding beyond

the nut.

 

Waiter


F16 performance on a Piper Cub budget

LongEZ, 160hp, MT CS Prop, Downdraft cooling, Full retract

visit: www.iflyez.com

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ALSO;

 

I can't tell from these photos, BUT, shouldn't there be a insert in the hole that the large bolt goes through?

 

I seem to recall these LBGs were to be drilled oversize and an insert installed. This would prevent the elongation of the bolt hole later in life.

The plans don't call for the LBGs to be drilled over sized. Not being well versed in this area, it seems to me that an insert would eventually do the same thing that a bolt would do, only become larger (the insert size), provided that the hole for the bolt was the correct size to begin with. Am I using the wrong reasoning here? Don't forget to raise the 3/8 inch hole up .4", don't remember exactly which CP it was but it is recommended, for aerodynamic purposes.

 

A recommendation that was sent to me, "The nuts that attach the LMGAs should also have AT LEAST wide area washers for bearing surface rather than the plans called for AN960-416 washers which the plans call for. The small washers allow LMGA mount bolts torque to be lost when the wood crushes under heavy loads."

 

Another suggestion that was passed along, "Be sure the area between the strut and the tube is filled with flox and not micro or worse yet urethane foam as called for on page 9-2 . That section is highly loaded and several failures are centered in that area. None are catastrophic but they are a big pain to repair."

 

One more recommendation, for future builders it's suggested that a different wood be used for the Spruce blocks that the LMGA's attach to. Spruce is too soft, switch to Oak or something harder to take the mounting bolt loads when the gear is stressed. With the gross weight of these birds going up these days every little bit helps.

 

Bruce Sturgill

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One more recommendation, for future builders it's suggested that a different wood be used for the Spruce blocks that the LMGA's attach to. Spruce is too soft, switch to Oak or something harder to take the mounting bolt loads when the gear is stressed. With the gross weight of these birds going up these days every little bit helps.

 

Bruce Sturgill

Well I made the LG brackets myself, so of course there is no steel insert. As far as the spruce is concerned it is already of course installed and glassed over. It would have been a little nice to know these tips in advance.

 

I have made some modifications to the forward bracket to allow the washers to sit flat. Should I continue to work on these brackets or should I abandon them and start with new?

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Well I made the LG brackets myself, so of course there is no steel insert. As far as the spruce is concerned it is already of course installed and glassed over. It would have been a little nice to know these tips in advance.

 

I have made some modifications to the forward bracket to allow the washers to sit flat. Should I continue to work on these brackets or should I abandon them and start with new?

 

I'd keep them as well. Sorry about the late tips on the wood, just learned those today.

 

Bruce

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Not sure if it will fit but what you may want is a piloted counterbore to spot face the area where that washer goes. The tool looks like a long end mill with a smooth pilot sticking out of the middle that fits in the hole on your part. Question is do you have enough clearance, in other words is the interference just the material in the radius or is it the wall as well?

Those knurled tubes look mighty nice though :D

Regards, Chrissi

Unfortunately I do not have a ready source of machine tools (nor the knowhow to operate them).

 

So I am left with the option of going the Joe homeowner caveman approach: I picked up a dremel type tool today. The thing I don't like about these is that they offer up a few dozen ways not to do the job right. Nevertheless I managed to zap away the offending aluminum and the washers are now sitting flat like I told them to.

 

Posted Image

Posted Image

 

http://flyingbackward.blogspot.com/

Flying Backward

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Oh, and thanks for the great input. I suppose I should hit the books and go through the CPs more carefully. Probably not a bad time to sign up for the CSAs as well.

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CSA's first, build later... or Build first, read CSA's, bang head against wall.

 

...Chrissi (repairing her own damaged walls)

I have to stop reading this forum at work. Laughing out loud is drawing strange looks from the boss.

 

I now have a new signature.


Drew Chaplin (aka the Foam Whisperer)

---

www.Cozy1200.com - I'm a builder now! :cool:

---

Brace for impact...

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CSA's first, build later... or Build first, read CSA's, bang head against wall.

 

...Chrissi (repairing her own damaged walls)

I grew up in the 80's. Head banging can be fun... Up to a point....

 

http://www.latimes.com/entertainment/news/music/la-et-quiet28nov28,1,5384628.story?coll=la-entnews-music

 

a very fine point....

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Definitely don't call it a Long-Eze, or an Open-Eze for that matter (The VariEze is the only EZ that went with 'E-z-e' vs. simply 'EZ'). ;)

 

In terms of protection, registering it something other than a Long-EZ is protecting Burt Rutan. Until then, I think it's fine to say "I'm building a Long-EZ." The point is that when you end up registering with the proper authority, consider something similar to these:

  • Fryer Open-EZ
  • Fryer Tandem Canard
  • Fryer EZ
  • Fryer Speed Demon
  • Fryer Model 1
My $0.02.

Ok I just thought perhaps I could call it an "EZ Fryer", but that sounded a little to much like a kitchen gadget.

"ONLY $19.99 plus 35.00 s&H IF YOU CALL NOW!!!! IT EZily FRIES ALL YOUR ONIONS, FRENCH FRIES, AND STILL CUTS A TOMATO LIKE THIS!!!..."

 

(personally, I have never had such difficulty slicing a tomato.)

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Its been a little while since I updated my blog, but I have made some progress.

I have finished the landing gear bracket installation and also the fuselage assembly. The later task was not very fun. I spent most of the time crouching on the workbench laying up bid tape on the bulk heads (instrument panel and forward seat back). I was a little sore then following day. If I were to do that again I would have jigged up the fuselage a little off the floor instead of on the workbench.

 

Posted Image

 

Anyhow I am about ready to start sculpting the fuselage floor. Any words of wisdom before I being that task is appreciated.

 

I also picked up my first flight instrument... check out the blog for details....

 

http://flyingbackward.blogspot.com/

Flying Backward

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I finished contouring the fuselage bottom yesterday. I am thinking that perhaps I will glass it tomorrow. The plans call for the bottom to be glassed, then left to set up for a while and then flox it in place.

 

My thought was to go ahead and lay up the glass, but then peel ply the appropriate areas and then flox it to the fuselage at a later date. I just don't want to do to much at once and rush things.

 

Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.

 

Posted Image

 

http://flyingbackward.blogspot.com/

Flying Backward

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I buried my rudder conduit in the wall of the fuselage. It makes for a fairly straight run.

Let me know if you need any measurements

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I buried my rudder conduit in the wall of the fuselage. It makes for a fairly straight run.

Let me know if you need any measurements

If there is a real advantage to installing the rudder conduit on the outside I am definitely interested in measurements or photos if you have any.

 

I did not drill the holes in the larger landing gear brackets for the conduit because I had read of a failure possibly cause by that hole. If routing the conduit through the side foam solves this I will try it out. Thanks.

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PTM, Most of this chapter is documented at this link.

I did a couple of other mods at this time as well.

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Yesterday I glassed the right side of the fuselage exterior. Unfortunately I discovered that I did not have enough UNI to finish the left side. :mad::irked:

 

I feel a little lucky though that I discovered this fact before I was halfway through the layup on that side. I peel plied the centerline overlap area and I will finish glassing the outside when I have enough UNI.

 

Posted Image

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Well, the elf and I did some more work this weekend and completed the headrest assembly. More details are on my website.

 

Also today I installed the seatbelt reenforcements. I will update the site tomorrow with progress on those.

 

Posted Image

 

http://flyingbackward.blogspot.com/

Flying Backward

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