britguy59 Posted April 8, 2007 Share Posted April 8, 2007 Can anyone tell me the stroke and speed of the actuators used for these mods? I think the air brake uses a 4 inch actuator, but unsure of speed of travel et al. If you have any of these, look at the dataplate and tell? Thanks to all. She'll be finished this year with luck and a hanger somewhere!! (zephyrhills and area if you know of one) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISSTEST Posted April 8, 2007 Share Posted April 8, 2007 Hi, I think if you go to http://www.berkut13.com/ site he has a video of the one he is using. James is a great guy and I think he has a e-mail address there to if you have additional questions. Best of luck, Stuart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Matcho Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 Can anyone tell me the stroke and speed of the actuators used for these mods? I think the air brake uses a 4 inch actuator, but unsure of speed of travel et al.The sort-of standard for the speed brake is a 12V Warner Electric 4" travel capable of 75 lbs. of force. However, you can use just about anything you can find. Some use 6" actuators, etc. Here's another project page: http://www.sixspringers.com/Cozy/Chapter09/landing_brake.htm and http://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/pages/bittner/index.html Here's a vendor link: http://www.compositedesigninc.com/Speed_Brake.htm She'll be finished this year with luck and a hanger somewhere!! (zephyrhills and area if you know of one)Good luck. Keep us posted. Quote Jon Matcho Builder & Canard Zone Admin Now: Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E Next: Resume building a Cozy Mark IV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saybeengineering Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 Any Long EZ Modifications for electric speed brake???? Quote Afif Saybe Long-EZ, HR-ATQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTest Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 The sort-of standard for the speed brake is a 12V Warner Electric 4" travel capable of 75 lbs. of force. However, you can use just about anything you can find. Some use 6" actuators, etc. G'day I just purchased the Warner Electric 4" travel capable of 100 lbs for $180.00; part name M-Track. I checked Google for "Warner Electric Linear Actuator" and went to the Warner Electric web site. The site has some old part information where the name was A-Track 1 but that has been replaced by the new name M-Track light duty actuator. I went to the distrubuter locator section of the Warner Electric site and called the numbers. I purchased on the phone and should have the actuator within two days of ordering. I hope this information is helpful. I will post more later.... Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Schneider Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 Try this site for tohse pesky actuators $100 - $140. http://www.firgelliauto.com/default.php?cPath=74 Quote "I run with scissors." Cozy MKIV N85TT Phase One Testing http://home.earthlink.net/~jerskip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kent Ashton Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 Another one that is frequently used http://www.powerdrives.com/electrak/S12-17A8-04.htm Quote -KentCozy IV N13AM-750 hrs, Long-EZ-85 hrs and sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGlos Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 I just finished installing the unit that Jerry recommended. I bought the 4" travel, 150 lbs of force. It extends in 4 seconds. Very nice unit, smooth. I also bought the bracket with the clevis pin. Total price with shipping was $139. The 4" was perfect. I don't see how you could use the 6". The 4" extended the brake exactly like the manual system. Maybe a hair more travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cozy1200 Posted May 30, 2008 Share Posted May 30, 2008 DaveB & I was discussing these the other day. Does anyone have any know how much a complete install weighs compared with the plans method. We're always discussing places to save weight. Quote Drew Chaplin (aka the Foam Whisperer) --- www.Cozy1200.com - I'm a builder now! --- Brace for impact... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynn Erickson Posted May 30, 2008 Share Posted May 30, 2008 DaveB & I was discussing these the other day. Does anyone have any know how much a complete install weighs compared with the plans method. We're always discussing places to save weight.The one I used is 75 lbs. by 4" and it weighted 2.5 lbs. if the plans parts weight 1 lbs then the 1.5 lbs. increase is well worth it. the cost is about the same as the stock parts also. install is much less work.http://stores.ebay.com/Wizard-Automotive-Products http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LINEAR-ACTUATOR-2-4-6-8-10-12-STROKE-AVAILABLE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ6763QQihZ003QQitemZ130226004967#ht_2644wt_0 Quote Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macleodm3 Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 I'm glad that someone has tried out the ones on ebay because I have considered ordering one of these less expensive units too. The ebay actuators don't look as robust as the Warner. To me, it looks like the Warner has scews holding it together, while the $100 actuators may be press fitted together. For RGlos and Lynn, do these units seem well put together? Did either one of you buy the ones without the limit swithces (using instead a programmable switch). How well do the limit switches work (adjustable easily)? Thanks, both of you, because I would like to save a few dollars, in places where it makes sense such as this actuator. Quote Andrew Anunson I work underground and I play in the sky... no problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynn Erickson Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 I'm glad that someone has tried out the ones on ebay because I have considered ordering one of these less expensive units too. The ebay actuators don't look as robust as the Warner. To me, it looks like the Warner has scews holding it together, while the $100 actuators may be press fitted together. For RGlos and Lynn, do these units seem well put together? Did either one of you buy the ones without the limit swithces (using instead a programmable switch). How well do the limit switches work (adjustable easily)? Thanks, both of you, because I would like to save a few dollars, in places where it makes sense such as this actuator. I have over 400 flying hours on mine. don't use it for landing much but i do use it on every taxi. mine did not have the switches I don't think. if it did i did not use them. I don't believe they are not adjustable. the 4" stroke was a little to much for mine. I used the aircraft water proof sealed switches Quote Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Steve Posted June 1, 2008 Share Posted June 1, 2008 Andrew wrote: I'm glad that someone has tried out the ones on ebay because I have considered ordering one of these less expensive units too. The ebay actuators don't look as robust as the Warner. To me, it looks like the Warner has scews holding it together, while the $100 actuators may be press fitted together. I bought a 4" 150lb. unit from Firgelli it works very nicely and easy to install took me a couple of nights total. That also counts making the aluminum mount. It cost 109.99 + shipping. I have not flown the plane but I figure as long as I can get electricity to it. It will work. The landing brake is not a necessity but it sure in nice as Lynn says to taxi with. My .02 build on STeve Quote Steve Harmon Lovin Life in Idaho Cozy IV Plans #1466 N232CZ http://websites.expercraft.com/bigsteve/ Working on Chapter 19,21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGlos Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 Macleodm3 I appreciate your concerns. I had them as well. But when the unit arrived it looked very imjpressive- better than the picture. i would say I saw no difference in quality between this actuator and the EZ Nose lift. I just got back from testing mine. I operated it at 80 kts. It made less noise on my radio than the EZ Nose lift. I could not hear it operate but could feel it. Mine came with limit switches that are internal. All I had to add was a dpdt switch. I made one change in instalation. I drilled and tapped the end for a 10/28 male ball joint. I would have used the existing ones from the original set up but they were female. In the end when it came to final adjustment to close the brake the threaded ball joint was invaluable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krwalsh Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Has anyone opened up the Firgelli automation actuators? Specifically, has anyone modified the limit switches to restrict the throw? I bought and installed a 6" 200# actuator for our pitch trim. It works perfectly, except at the very max limit it is a hair too long and causes a bind between the instrument panel and the back of the nose gear bulkhead. If I could shorten the stroke by 1/4" to 1/2" it would be perfect. There was mention of machining the end to accept a rod end, which may also work, but I would be afraid that would actually ADD length. If not, anyone need a 6" actuator basically brand new so I can replace it with a 4" (which strikes me as possibly being too short, so I'd end up machining it for the rod end...) Quote Kevin R. Walsh & Michael Antares Cozy Mk-IV #413 N753CZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynn Erickson Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Has anyone opened up the Firgelli automation actuators? Specifically, has anyone modified the limit switches to restrict the throw? I bought and installed a 6" 200# actuator for our pitch trim. It works perfectly, except at the very max limit it is a hair too long and causes a bind between the instrument panel and the back of the nose gear bulkhead. If I could shorten the stroke by 1/4" to 1/2" it would be perfect. There was mention of machining the end to accept a rod end, which may also work, but I would be afraid that would actually ADD length. If not, anyone need a 6" actuator basically brand new so I can replace it with a 4" (which strikes me as possibly being too short, so I'd end up machining it for the rod end...) not sure why you would need 6" of travel or the limit switches. 2" is way more then you can use. during operation you only use about 1/2" max. from level elevator to about 1" down at trailing edge is a whole lot. never needs to go above level unless you are trying to be a lawn dart. Quote Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krwalsh Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 I'm not sure I made this clear. I built the system very similar to what Nick Ugolini has on his web site. It uses a fiberglass torsion spring, like I assume everyone does for this installation. As installed it will go from about 1/4" to 3/8" elevator trailing edge up to basically at the travel limit down. I agree that this is WAY more travel than is required. If I was starting from go I'd buy a 4" actuator, not a 6". Not wanting to throw out an otherwise perfectly acceptable actuator, I was hoping to open it up and move the limit switch to limit the travel to something reasonable. I consider the limit switches a safety device. Basically I should be able to run to the limit switch at which point it should shut down. If that fails, the CB should blow. So, it is redundant protection, which I like. As for normal flying I have to assume you are correct and I will in practice use a very smalll amount of the total travel. Quote Kevin R. Walsh & Michael Antares Cozy Mk-IV #413 N753CZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krwalsh Posted November 30, 2008 Share Posted November 30, 2008 in answer to my own questions, yes you can open them, and yes you can move the limit switches. For photos go here: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IdOFZ0IGyOZMm4uce2Q4dA You can move both switches with a little bit of soldering. I think once the plane is flying and we find the limits that we use for normal trim travel we'll take this apart and set the switches properly. Quote Kevin R. Walsh & Michael Antares Cozy Mk-IV #413 N753CZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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