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Electric trim/speed brake


britguy59

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Can anyone tell me the stroke and speed of the actuators used for these mods? I think the air brake uses a 4 inch actuator, but unsure of speed of travel et al. If you have any of these, look at the dataplate and tell? Thanks to all. She'll be finished this year with luck and a hanger somewhere!! (zephyrhills and area if you know of one)

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Can anyone tell me the stroke and speed of the actuators used for these mods? I think the air brake uses a 4 inch actuator, but unsure of speed of travel et al.

The sort-of standard for the speed brake is a 12V Warner Electric 4" travel capable of 75 lbs. of force. However, you can use just about anything you can find. Some use 6" actuators, etc.

 

Here's another project page: http://www.sixspringers.com/Cozy/Chapter09/landing_brake.htm

and

http://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/pages/bittner/index.html

 

Here's a vendor link: http://www.compositedesigninc.com/Speed_Brake.htm

 

She'll be finished this year with luck and a hanger somewhere!! (zephyrhills and area if you know of one)

Good luck. Keep us posted.

Jon Matcho :busy:
Builder & Canard Zone Admin
Now:  Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E
Next:  Resume building a Cozy Mark IV

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  • 1 month later...
  • 11 months later...

The sort-of standard for the speed brake is a 12V Warner Electric 4" travel capable of 75 lbs. of force. However, you can use just about anything you can find. Some use 6" actuators, etc.

G'day

 

I just purchased the Warner Electric 4" travel capable of 100 lbs for $180.00; part name M-Track. I checked Google for "Warner Electric Linear Actuator" and went to the Warner Electric web site. The site has some old part information where the name was A-Track 1 but that has been replaced by the new name M-Track light duty actuator. I went to the distrubuter locator section of the Warner Electric site and called the numbers. I purchased on the phone and should have the actuator within two days of ordering. I hope this information is helpful. I will post more later....

 

Jeff

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I just finished installing the unit that Jerry recommended.

 

I bought the 4" travel, 150 lbs of force. It extends in 4 seconds.

 

Very nice unit, smooth. I also bought the bracket with the clevis pin.

 

Total price with shipping was $139.

 

The 4" was perfect. I don't see how you could use the 6". The 4" extended the brake exactly like the manual system. Maybe a hair more travel.

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DaveB & I was discussing these the other day. Does anyone have any know how much a complete install weighs compared with the plans method. We're always discussing places to save weight.

The one I used is 75 lbs. by 4" and it weighted 2.5 lbs. if the plans parts weight 1 lbs then the 1.5 lbs. increase is well worth it. the cost is about the same as the stock parts also. install is much less work.

http://stores.ebay.com/Wizard-Automotive-Products

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LINEAR-ACTUATOR-2-4-6-8-10-12-STROKE-AVAILABLE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ6763QQihZ003QQitemZ130226004967#ht_2644wt_0

Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years

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I'm glad that someone has tried out the ones on ebay because I have considered ordering one of these less expensive units too. The ebay actuators don't look as robust as the Warner. To me, it looks like the Warner has scews holding it together, while the $100 actuators may be press fitted together.

 

For RGlos and Lynn, do these units seem well put together? Did either one of you buy the ones without the limit swithces (using instead a programmable switch). How well do the limit switches work (adjustable easily)?

 

Thanks, both of you, because I would like to save a few dollars, in places where it makes sense such as this actuator.

Andrew Anunson

I work underground and I play in the sky... no problem

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I'm glad that someone has tried out the ones on ebay because I have considered ordering one of these less expensive units too. The ebay actuators don't look as robust as the Warner. To me, it looks like the Warner has scews holding it together, while the $100 actuators may be press fitted together.

 

For RGlos and Lynn, do these units seem well put together? Did either one of you buy the ones without the limit swithces (using instead a programmable switch). How well do the limit switches work (adjustable easily)?

 

Thanks, both of you, because I would like to save a few dollars, in places where it makes sense such as this actuator.

I have over 400 flying hours on mine. don't use it for landing much but i do use it on every taxi. mine did not have the switches I don't think. if it did i did not use them. I don't believe they are not adjustable. the 4" stroke was a little to much for mine. I used the aircraft water proof sealed switches

Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years

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Andrew wrote:

 

I'm glad that someone has tried out the ones on ebay because I have considered ordering one of these less expensive units too. The ebay actuators don't look as robust as the Warner. To me, it looks like the Warner has scews holding it together, while the $100 actuators may be press fitted together.

I bought a 4" 150lb. unit from Firgelli it works very nicely and easy to install took me a couple of nights total. That also counts making the aluminum mount. It cost 109.99 + shipping. I have not flown the plane but I figure as long as I can get electricity to it. It will work. The landing brake is not a necessity but it sure in nice as Lynn says to taxi with. My .02 build on STeve

Steve Harmon

Lovin Life in Idaho

Cozy IV Plans #1466 N232CZ

http://websites.expercraft.com/bigsteve/

Working on Chapter 19,21

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Macleodm3

 

I appreciate your concerns. I had them as well. But when the unit arrived it looked very imjpressive- better than the picture. i would say I saw no difference in quality between this actuator and the EZ Nose lift.

 

I just got back from testing mine. I operated it at 80 kts. It made less noise on my radio than the EZ Nose lift. I could not hear it operate but could feel it.

 

Mine came with limit switches that are internal. All I had to add was a dpdt switch.

 

I made one change in instalation. I drilled and tapped the end for a 10/28 male ball joint. I would have used the existing ones from the original set up but they were female. In the end when it came to final adjustment to close the brake the threaded ball joint was invaluable.

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  • 5 months later...

Has anyone opened up the Firgelli automation actuators? Specifically, has anyone modified the limit switches to restrict the throw? I bought and installed a 6" 200# actuator for our pitch trim. It works perfectly, except at the very max limit it is a hair too long and causes a bind between the instrument panel and the back of the nose gear bulkhead. If I could shorten the stroke by 1/4" to 1/2" it would be perfect. There was mention of machining the end to accept a rod end, which may also work, but I would be afraid that would actually ADD length.

 

If not, anyone need a 6" actuator basically brand new so I can replace it with a 4" (which strikes me as possibly being too short, so I'd end up machining it for the rod end...)

Kevin R. Walsh & Michael Antares

Cozy Mk-IV #413

N753CZ

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Has anyone opened up the Firgelli automation actuators? Specifically, has anyone modified the limit switches to restrict the throw? I bought and installed a 6" 200# actuator for our pitch trim. It works perfectly, except at the very max limit it is a hair too long and causes a bind between the instrument panel and the back of the nose gear bulkhead. If I could shorten the stroke by 1/4" to 1/2" it would be perfect. There was mention of machining the end to accept a rod end, which may also work, but I would be afraid that would actually ADD length.

 

If not, anyone need a 6" actuator basically brand new so I can replace it with a 4" (which strikes me as possibly being too short, so I'd end up machining it for the rod end...)

not sure why you would need 6" of travel or the limit switches. 2" is way more then you can use. during operation you only use about 1/2" max. from level elevator to about 1" down at trailing edge is a whole lot. never needs to go above level unless you are trying to be a lawn dart.

Evolultion Eze RG -a two place side by side-200 Knots on 200 HP. A&P / pilot for over 30 years

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I'm not sure I made this clear. I built the system very similar to what Nick Ugolini has on his web site. It uses a fiberglass torsion spring, like I assume everyone does for this installation. As installed it will go from about 1/4" to 3/8" elevator trailing edge up to basically at the travel limit down. I agree that this is WAY more travel than is required. If I was starting from go I'd buy a 4" actuator, not a 6". Not wanting to throw out an otherwise perfectly acceptable actuator, I was hoping to open it up and move the limit switch to limit the travel to something reasonable.

 

I consider the limit switches a safety device. Basically I should be able to run to the limit switch at which point it should shut down. If that fails, the CB should blow. So, it is redundant protection, which I like.

 

As for normal flying I have to assume you are correct and I will in practice use a very smalll amount of the total travel.

Kevin R. Walsh & Michael Antares

Cozy Mk-IV #413

N753CZ

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in answer to my own questions, yes you can open them, and yes you can move the limit switches. For photos go here:

 

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IdOFZ0IGyOZMm4uce2Q4dA

 

You can move both switches with a little bit of soldering. I think once the plane is flying and we find the limits that we use for normal trim travel we'll take this apart and set the switches properly.

Kevin R. Walsh & Michael Antares

Cozy Mk-IV #413

N753CZ

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