Jon Matcho Posted October 13, 2006 Author Share Posted October 13, 2006 I'll try that. My shop is getting sub 60 degs F at night, so I brought the LG bulkhead into the house this morning to fully cure. I still need to do the permanent firewall, which I didn't want to do until I was absolutely certain I had the proper dimensions (considering the widened rear). That should be straightforward -- just trace the temporary firewall. Quote Jon Matcho Builder & Canard Zone Admin Now: Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E Next: Resume building a Cozy Mark IV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Matcho Posted October 16, 2006 Author Share Posted October 16, 2006 I'm in 3D mode... fuselage assembly. Check my web site if interested. Quote Jon Matcho Builder & Canard Zone Admin Now: Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E Next: Resume building a Cozy Mark IV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFernandez Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 Good job, Jon! Looking good. Quote Carlos Fernandez AeroCanard FG Plans #206 Chp. 13 aerocanard.kal-soft.com Sales & Support GRT Avionics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Matcho Posted October 18, 2006 Author Share Posted October 18, 2006 Thanks Carlos. I'm watching for that landing gear section you mentioned got to be a bit "odd". I have all bulkheads except landing gear and firewall bulkheads floxed in. Still need to tape, but feel like I'm making progress because I can see this new "thing" in my garage now. Quote Jon Matcho Builder & Canard Zone Admin Now: Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E Next: Resume building a Cozy Mark IV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Kriley Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 Thanks Carlos. I'm watching for that landing gear section you mentioned got to be a bit "odd". I have all bulkheads except landing gear and firewall bulkheads floxed in. Still need to tape, but feel like I'm making progress because I can see this new "thing" in my garage now. Shouldn't you tape at the same time you flox? I'd think you'd get a nicer finish and better bond if the flox was still wet when you put on the tape - and youwould not have to sand again. That's what I'm planning to do tonight when I put the 4-uni layers on the upper longerons. I'm going to use some flox to make a smooth transition from the longerons to the fuselage sides, then put on the cloth. Quote Phil Kriley Cozy #1460 Chapter 13 - nose Right wing done - working on right winglet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Matcho Posted October 18, 2006 Author Share Posted October 18, 2006 Phil Kriley said: Shouldn't you tape at the same time you flox? Generally, yes. Quote I'd think you'd get a nicer finish... I don't agree. It's hard enough to make a nice flox fillet underneath the acute angle of the seatback, let alone tape glass in there without squeezing your fillets all over the place. Quote ...and better bond if the flox was still wet when you put on the tape - and youwould not have to sand again. That's the only trade-off, but sanding isn't that hard and I am not at all worried about delamination as a result of this approach. Quote That's what I'm planning to do tonight when I put the 4-uni layers on the upper longerons. I'm going to use some flox to make a smooth transition from the longerons to the fuselage sides, then put on the cloth. I did the longeron flox fillets at the time the longerons were mounted to the sides. Sanding the flox fillets rough and raw is easy (although requires more time) with a carbide Permagrit dremel bit. The result is a perfect fillet that won't move during taping. YMMV -- if in doubt, do it per plans of course. Let me know. Quote Jon Matcho Builder & Canard Zone Admin Now: Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E Next: Resume building a Cozy Mark IV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remi Khu Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 A neat trick to smooth out flox is by brushing a bit of pure epoxy over the flox. I think I saw that on Bernie Siu's web page. Quote Remi Khu Cozy Mk IV Plan #1336 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Matcho Posted October 19, 2006 Author Share Posted October 19, 2006 Phil Kriley said: Shouldn't you tape at the same time you flox? I taped tonight, and had your question in my head. The plans have you flox first, fillet, cure 24 hours, and then tape the next session. Remi Khu said: A neat trick to smooth out flox is by brushing a bit of pure epoxy over the flox. I think I saw that on Bernie Siu's web page. Sounds like what you're supposed to do anyway -- paint the surface to be mated with a light film of epoxy. Then again, doesn't matter what I say because I can feel my brain learning as I move along. I can't say I had a perfect taping session, but it will do. Quote Jon Matcho Builder & Canard Zone Admin Now: Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E Next: Resume building a Cozy Mark IV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Morrison Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 Jon Your project is looking great, keep pluggin away, It takes a lot of dedication and focus but the end result is well worth the effort. I should have my AC 99.99% completed this week end. If you are in th area, give me a call and I will take you for a ride. Jack E Racer 113 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Matcho Posted October 20, 2006 Author Share Posted October 20, 2006 Thanks Jack! I guess I'm trying to catch up to Remi. I think the project taking a recognizable shape keeps me going now. I'm about ready to set my landing gear bulkheads. You said it, "everyone, keep going!" I hear you've got some performance improvements happening. Sounds like an even better plane than it ever was. I'll have to end up in your neck of the woods one of these days. Quote Jon Matcho Builder & Canard Zone Admin Now: Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E Next: Resume building a Cozy Mark IV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Matcho Posted October 24, 2006 Author Share Posted October 24, 2006 Jon Matcho (from another thread) said: I'll let you know soon how my LG bulkheads align to LWX and LWY -- that's my next step. Actually, my next steps are: 1a) 4-bid reinforcements on F22 1b) 2-bid tape bottom 2" part of IP (beneath bottom hole on side) 2) Install F28 3) LG bulkheads At least 3 nights/sessions of work I estimate, depending on the size of the session. Jack Morrison said: I should have my AC 99.99% completed this week end. How'd you make out Jack? Four nines is impressive! Quote Jon Matcho Builder & Canard Zone Admin Now: Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E Next: Resume building a Cozy Mark IV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Morrison Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 Welllll, got the first 99 but the last.99, not even close. Im in the process of wiring my nav/strobe lights as of tonight. Still have a few items to finish but hopefully I should have it in the air Sunday. It will be interesting to see if there any improvements in AS with the airframe painted and clean. I'll let you know if there is any noticable increase. Jack E Racer 113 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Matcho Posted October 27, 2006 Author Share Posted October 27, 2006 Jack, I re-watched your segment on the Canard Special DVD to get some additional motivation. Actually, I wanted to see how your forward opening canopy was hinged and mounted. I have seen the E-Racer plans in this area. Looks straightforward with the right layup schedule. If the weather keeps me from the Great Pumpkin Fly-in, I'll be installing the landing gear bulkheads this weekend. After that, will be looking forward to working on the bottom. Quote Jon Matcho Builder & Canard Zone Admin Now: Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E Next: Resume building a Cozy Mark IV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Morrison Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 Jon The E Racer forward hinged canopy was not very difficult to do. I changed mine a little because I extended the canopy frame forward 5 inches to give more access to the instruments. I am also using a Cozy 4 lens on my canopy. If you need templates for the hinges, let me know and I will be happy to send them to you. If you noticed at RR, I had center pull down catches. Since I replaced the original lens with the Cozy 4 lens and installed the lens to the frame, I put a 1/4 in block at the rear edge of the canopy frame and pulled the center catches down tight and let cure. I now no longer need the center catches and the catches at the rear of the canopy pull the canopy tight, even at 290+ mph. I have since eliminated the center canopy latches. All I use for sealing and rain is the 5/16 P stripping. Jack E Racer 113 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Matcho Posted October 28, 2006 Author Share Posted October 28, 2006 What interests me most with the ERacer canopy hing is that the gas struts are mounted directly to the hings AND hidden forward of the panel. Seems like a lot of force would be required to make that happen, but obviously it works. I took a look at the ERacer plans and have good notes for retrofit into my Cozy. Any help would be appreciated, and I'll be sure to ask more questions when I'm closer to that part. I was thinking whether I needed to strengthen F28 (your FS28) at this point, but decided to proceed to plans as I can do that later if necessary. Quote Jon Matcho Builder & Canard Zone Admin Now: Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E Next: Resume building a Cozy Mark IV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Morrison Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 Jon I did not have to reinforce the fs28 bulkhead for the hinges. The only change when I extended the canopy frame forward 5 inches, I had to go from a 80lb shock to a 100 lb shock, works great with no problem so far. By the way, I finisned the nav/strobe lights tonight. Am working on a electronic wastegate control system for better low cruise fuel burn, looks very promising. Jack E Racer 113 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Matcho Posted November 2, 2006 Author Share Posted November 2, 2006 Jack Morrison said: I did not have to reinforce the fs28 bulkhead for the hinges. The only change when I extended the canopy frame forward 5 inches, I had to go from a 80lb shock to a 100 lb shock, works great with no problem so far. I'll have to take another look at how that shock gets supported. Quote Am working on a electronic wastegate control system for better low cruise fuel burn, looks very promising. I thought you don't worry about things like that with 6-cylinder engines. My bulb burnt out in my hotbox and I'm waiting for it to warm up so I can finish my fuselage assembly... Quote Jon Matcho Builder & Canard Zone Admin Now: Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E Next: Resume building a Cozy Mark IV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Morrison Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 Jon I tested the wastegate controller tonight on static runup and it worked as expected. I am hoping I will see about a 25% reduction in fuel burn at low cruise, 230 mph. That should increase my range considerably, testing at altitude will verify that. In regard to the foam post, I was just being concerned. If the 1.6 is good to go, go for it. Jack E Racer 113 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Matcho Posted November 2, 2006 Author Share Posted November 2, 2006 Sounds like a great improvement. I appreciate your input on the foam discussion. I went into "oh sh*t" mode again until I redid the same research as when I decided to buy. I also got a nod from someone who's knowledge I value. Still, the plans call for different "material", but I'm comfortable. Quote Jon Matcho Builder & Canard Zone Admin Now: Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E Next: Resume building a Cozy Mark IV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Matcho Posted November 20, 2006 Author Share Posted November 20, 2006 I finally got enough confidence to mount my LG bulkheads this past week. I'm locked in now! It took some careful adjusting to get everything to fit, but I managed. Just need to clean-up all the tapes and then... not sure what's next. Floor? Oh yeah, no, my permanent firewall! Quote Jon Matcho Builder & Canard Zone Admin Now: Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E Next: Resume building a Cozy Mark IV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Kriley Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 Looks good! I hope your turns out better than mine did! Quote Phil Kriley Cozy #1460 Chapter 13 - nose Right wing done - working on right winglet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Matcho Posted November 21, 2006 Author Share Posted November 21, 2006 How's this for not turning out as I had planned (notice the cut bulkhead)? Check here for related discussion. Quote Jon Matcho Builder & Canard Zone Admin Now: Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E Next: Resume building a Cozy Mark IV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Matcho Posted March 20, 2007 Author Share Posted March 20, 2007 I flipped my fuselage this past weekend, in preparation for doing the seatback brace, heat duct, and bottom. Only minor issue is that when I ordered chapter kits from Wicks (almost 3 years ago), they forgot to include a 1/4" x 2' x 4' piece of Last-a-Foam. We'll see how good their customer service really is when I try to explain myself. Quote Jon Matcho Builder & Canard Zone Admin Now: Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E Next: Resume building a Cozy Mark IV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Matcho Posted April 10, 2007 Author Share Posted April 10, 2007 I've worked 5 more hours on the underside (sanding and taping inside LG bulkheads) and STILL need to get to my heat duct and seatback brace. My strategy is to work in the shop more and more each evening, somehow forcing the weather to warm up a bit. Quote Jon Matcho Builder & Canard Zone Admin Now: Rebuilding Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E Next: Resume building a Cozy Mark IV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Steve Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 Jon: If you need it to get warmer in the garage. Get a heater and force it to get warm. I have a wood stove and a Propane furnace. I generally only have to heat it in the morning now it stays pretty warm the rest of the day. STeve Quote Steve Harmon Lovin Life in Idaho Cozy IV Plans #1466 N232CZ http://websites.expercraft.com/bigsteve/ Working on Chapter 19,21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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