engine nut

[Richard Schubert]

Maybe I was lucky, I used safety wire to secure the flywheel to the engine, then I put an 8 ft piece of water pipe on the breaker bar and had at it:D

[Aaron]

Maybe I was lucky

 

No you were well equipped. My 100 lb niece could have loosened it with an 8 foot pipe

[CBarber]

Aaron and those of you with even slight interest,

 

After you left today, I went and replaced the "Greatneck" breaker bar we broke with a new one. I bought a Craftman and guess what....it broke too. So, since I couldn't get my nut off <g>, I drilled it off. I will bring you the new braker bar Craftman gave me at the EAA 12 meeting next Wednesday. Thanks again.

 

But now, I can't get the dang flywheel (is it a flywheel on a manual?) off. Broke three bolts off using a "puller". Those things are faster than a speeding bullet when they break under extreme pressure. The manual says use a puller or a prybar, yeah right. Beat it, pulled it and pried it...all to no avail. Sorry for being a problem child....but any thoughts? Anyone....Bueller????

 

Thanks.

 

All the best,

 

Chris

[John Slade]

I've read that a REALLY good whack with a 10lb hammer will do the trick, but then - what do I know - I had an expert do this work.

Good luck.

[Aaron]

Mount the engine on the stand, and use that chain trick to hold the flywheel in place as you tension the puller.

 

1) use a tap to chase the threads in the flywheel, than make sure you thread the bolts all the way through the flywheel. Use grade 8 bolts if possible.

 

2) Tension the puller up to the most you can put on it using the breaker bar. Since it's mounted to a rolling stand, the way I did this was to put one foot blocking the stand from rolling and then I would pull the breaker bar towards me

 

3) with the tension on it, whack it with the biggest hammer you have. Not just once, you want the flywheel "ringing"

 

when it breaks it will jump 2-3 inches

 

One more thing, go to the autoparts store and ask the oldest guy there what the best penetrating oil is. They used to sell one made from whale oil which was fantastic, but all the whales are gone now

 

 

Getting a better penetrating oil will go a long ways I think.

[CBarber]

Since my three pound sledge was only laughed at by this engine, it looks like I gotta upgrade my three pound sledge hammer for a 10 lb one. Ah, the delicate task of airplane building.

 

Maybe I should go back to sanding fiberglass for a while <g>.

 

All the best,

 

Chris

 

PS, thanks again, Aaron.

[CBarber]

I revisited the flywheel issue today and finally after a lot of beating, pounding and swearing, I got the dang flywheel off. I also built a engine stand mount thaks to Aaron leaving his as an example.

 

Ok, I kinda knew this stuff through my research and intellect, but once I got the end housing off and got to check out the way the roter moves inside this engine, I have to say: "Kewl". THIS IS A REALLY KEWL ENGINE! It is all much more clear and real. I was facinated just spinning the engine around by hand and watching in amazement the way the rotar would spin in the housing. The perfect meshing of the somewhat odd shaped parts. No other moving parts and it all makes so much sense how it works. Great learning experience and all from a $100.00 junk core.

 

I was mostley sold before....but now I am an evanglest <g>....uh, maybe I should actally get one running first? Ok, I am really heavily persuaded

 

Y'all that havn't had one of these things open and turning don't know what you are missing......it's a beautiful thing.

 

You Lyc guys are gonna be pissed at me for gushing, but this day was fun. FWIW.

 

All the best,

 

Chris

[Aaron]

So hows everything look, any obvious gouges in the housings, are all the seals where they should be?

[CBarber]

Donno yet, I was too busy playing and celebratig getting the flywheel off <g>...then it got kinda late. My untrained eyes may not even recognize what is wrong yet. I have not torn the engine down yet, just pulled the end housing off.

 

Chris