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G'day

 

Sorry but the Test-EZ just had to be said...:)

 

I am almost finished with Chapter 4. I need to trim the instrument panel and F22 this weekend. I will start Chapter 5 this weekend.

 

My plans to widen the back seat and firewall by 4" has been changed due to the landing gear bow I purchased are already set for the plans. Time to get back to work.

 

Jeff

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Finished Chapter 4 and Started Chapter 5.

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Just a couple of comments....

 

What is the source of the interesting colors. It appears that perhaps the dark brown is where you peel plied?

 

You cut off the tabs in the lower corners of F-22. Is there a reason for this?

 

Also I can't really tell from your photo if you did this, but there is an optional change in the CP newsletter 27 that suggests "Revise F28 bulkhead by moving the longeron notch down 0.25". This raises F28 for better fit to canopy."

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You might try mounting the main gear like the Cozy Mk IV, between two bulkheads. I had built up and was getting ready to mount the main gear which was already set up for a standard Long EZ when I discovered that the fuselage was too wide. I built two bulkheads using Cozy plans and layup schedule to mount the main gear. Worked great. The Limo EZ is 22" wide at the firewall.

 

Joe Berki

Limo EZ

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Welcome Jeff, congratulations on getting started!

 

My plans to widen the back seat and firewall by 4" has been changed due to the landing gear bow I purchased are already set for the plans. Time to get back to work.

Good decision, but you could still widen the rear with the 'stock' bow if you really wanted to. Regardless, your approach -- sticking to the plans -- is the best IMHO.

 

Good luck!

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Per Burt:

" DO NOT MAKE THE REAR SEATBACK WIDER THAN ANYTHING YOU WOULD BE WILLING TO DATE! "

 

I'm sure that it was Burt that said that. :D

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G'day

 

MFryer - The colors are from the peel-ply (dark brown) and dusting with glass bubbles (yellow / brown). I cut the tabs off of F22 per the advise of my building assistant that has built several Long-EZs and told me to trim them off after I had glassed them. He told me they get cut off later anyway.

 

Thanks everybody else that sent comments.

 

Jeff

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. . . I cut the tabs off of F22 per the advise of my building assistant that has built several Long-EZs and told me to trim them off after I had glassed them. He told me they get cut off later anyway. . . .

:irked: Doesn't sound like prudent advice to me, especially now that we can see how the front of your fuse has come (or not) together. The F-22 tabs, though temporary by design and are slated to be removed post fuse assembly and cure, fulfill a specific purpose in the build process, they were designed to assist and ensure proper and EZ positioning of your fuse sides relative to F-22. If you had left those tabs in place and utilized them as specified in the plans: drill and temp nail the fwd edge of your upper longerons to them, your fuse sides would have been drawn inward as they were designed to be which begins the transition to the final nose shape; also, the full thickness (3/4” + Glass) of your fuse sides would have been neatly positioned behind F-22 with their exterior sides lined flush with the outer edges of F-22, again as they should be. I’m really surprised none of our critical top guns have jumped you on any of this yet. Before proceeding any further, consider removing F-22 and F-28, correct them to plan and CP specs, carefully reinstall them to at-and-per plan position and specs. Your Canard and your life will be attached to these structural components, the importance of them being installed correctly can't be overstated.

Sorry if this sounds harsh, it’s late.

Hat

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:irked: Doesn't sound like prudent advice to me, especially now that we can see how the front of your fuse has come (or not) together. The F-22 tabs, though temporary by design and are slated to be removed post fuse assembly and cure, fulfill a specific purpose in the build process, they were designed to assist and ensure proper and EZ positioning of your fuse sides relative to F-22. If you had left those tabs in place and utilized them as specified in the plans: drill and temp nail the fwd edge of your upper longerons to them, your fuse sides would have been drawn inward as they were designed to be which begins the transition to the final nose shape; also, the full thickness (3/4” + Glass) of your fuse sides would have been neatly positioned behind F-22 with their exterior sides lined flush with the outer edges of F-22, again as they should be. I’m really surprised none of our critical top guns have jumped you on any of this yet. Before proceeding any further, consider removing F-22 and F-28, correct them to plan and CP specs, carefully reinstall them to at-and-per plan position and specs. Your Canard and your life will be attached to these structural components, the importance of them being installed correctly can't be overstated.

Sorry if this sounds harsh, it’s late.

Hat

 

G'day Hat

 

Thank you for your concern. The tabs on the bottom were removed not the top. Please take a few minutes and look at my post from the last few days (April 13, 2008). You will see the fuselage tub. I did not remove the top tabs until Chapter 7 per plans.

 

I understand your concern. My tech advisor told me to cut the lower tabs off, but he is 6' 3" and he may have found they were in the way for his long legs. I am only 5' 9" so they may not have been an issue, but they are removed.

 

Thanks again;

 

Jeff

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I cut the tabs off of F22 per the advise of my building assistant that has built several Long-EZs and told me to trim them off after I had glassed them. He told me they get cut off later anyway.

I always thought those were for mounting the plans brakes. You may not need if you build hanging brake/rudder controls.

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Jon:

 

The original Longeze plans had the master cylinders on the firewall. Putting the brakes in the front is a modification. My Long had masters in the front. STeve build on

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:irked: Doesn't sound like prudent advice to me, especially now that we can see how the front of your fuse has come (or not) together. The F-22 tabs, though temporary by design and are slated to be removed post fuse assembly and cure, fulfill a specific purpose in the build process, they were designed to assist and ensure proper and EZ positioning of your fuse sides relative to F-22. If you had left those tabs in place and utilized them as specified in the plans: drill and temp nail the fwd edge of your upper longerons to them, your fuse sides would have been drawn inward as they were designed to be which begins the transition to the final nose shape; also, the full thickness (3/4” + Glass) of your fuse sides would have been neatly positioned behind F-22 with their exterior sides lined flush with the outer edges of F-22, again as they should be. I’m really surprised none of our critical top guns have jumped you on any of this yet. Before proceeding any further, consider removing F-22 and F-28, correct them to plan and CP specs, carefully reinstall them to at-and-per plan position and specs. Your Canard and your life will be attached to these structural components, the importance of them being installed correctly can't be overstated.

Sorry if this sounds harsh, it’s late.

Hat

I have to agree with HatSwitch here. Something does not quite look right where your fuse sides and F22 and F28 are joined. Also with F22 being installed backwards, I would suggest you remove and redo both F28 and F22. You will probably need to figure out some alternate method of jigging the fuse sides to F22 since you have already cut the top longerons, but something pretty simple can be figured out.

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I have to agree with HatSwitch here. Something does not quite look right where your fuse sides and F22 and F28 are joined. Also with F22 being installed backwards, I would suggest you remove and redo both F28 and F22. You will probably need to figure out some alternate method of jigging the fuse sides to F22 since you have already cut the top longerons, but something pretty simple can be figured out.

G'day mfryer

 

Thank you for your comments. I made another F22 doubler and installed it per plans on the correct side and then put the 2" BID strips. F22 now has 2 not 1 doubler. (I posted a thread on it several weeks ago) F22 now has a doubler on each side, that is why the picture looks strange. I will cut off part of the forward doubler later if needed. My technical advisor has told me it looks different but it will work.

 

Thank you again;

 

Jeff

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I always thought those were for mounting the plans brakes. You may not need if you build hanging brake/rudder controls.

G'day Jon

 

I have been told by my technical advisor you are correct.

 

Thanks for your comments and support;

 

Jeff

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Chapter 14

 

A month of Spar.... I have attached some pics. If you are inclined to provide constructive feedback you are welcome to comment. If you send pictures it is helpful. I lost my technical advisor do to a move last month.

 

I am building on my own. First pictures are of early spar build.

 

Jeff

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G'day

 

Here is the second of five weekends building the spar (Chapter 14). If you look close you will see the template and the sanding block.

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G'day

 

Weekend number three, I didn't get pictures of the shearweb (sorry). I did get a couple of the thick uni for the back of the top & bottom of the spar.

 

Jeff

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G'day

 

Now the picture of the Uni-layup in the spar....

 

Jeff

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G'day

 

Week four was spent sanding bondo and smoothing everything.... another 6 hours or so. No picutres of this week.

 

Jeff

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G'day

 

Chapter 14 layup number 6. I used the three layers of BID not the mod for four layers of Uni. I read many postings of people that had problems with the spar being to thick. I can't see how four layers of Uni would be thinner than three layers of BID. I understand the spar will be another 4 to 5 lbs heavy becasue of the BID.

 

Here are the pics. Still working.....

 

Jeff

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G'day

 

Week four was spent sanding bondo and smoothing everything.... another 6 hours or so. No picutres of this week.

 

Jeff

G'day

 

I did get a couple of pictures. I have posted.....

 

Jeff

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Looking good Jeff.

I'm just about to start on my spar.

 

T Mann

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G'day all and Happy July 4

 

I had a few hours away from the family today. I had to cut the grass at the hanger so I also did a little Chapter 14 layup (#7). I have attached the LWA3 and LWA2 parts with flox per plans and then put the three layers of 3" UNI glass and one layer of 5" BID at 45 degrees. See pictures below.

 

Hope everybody has a safe and enjoyable 4th. I have to cook some Snags on the Barby.

 

Jeff

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G'day

 

After three months moving hanger shops, I am building again.

 

Last week I set up the canard and made some parts. I have posted a couple of pictures.

 

Jeff

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G'day

 

Here is the carard set up and tabs microed to the foam. With any luck I will get the shear web layed up this weekend.

 

Here is a pic. I used the Chapter 7 cutouts to put the weights on after cutting the foam for the bolts.

 

 

Jeff

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